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Aconcagua
360°
Expedition 6959m
Climbing
Skill
Fitness
& Stamina
PHOTO:
View across the Andes from Camp 2 on the Falso de Los Polacos
route.
FEEDBACK:"Well organised with a great local team. The food
at base camp was amazing,
so a big thanks to Martha and her team at Plaza Argentina"
Simon A, Stevenage, 2008
Aconcagua
360° Expedition Overview
Aconcagua
is the Seventh Summit of South America. At
nearly 7000m high, it is the second tallest of the 7 Summits,
the only taller one being Mount Everest. The name of Aconcagua
comes from the native Inca's who used to call the mountain
Ancocahuac, the 'White Sentinal'. We follow the 360°
route, as it is technically more interesting and quieter
that the Normal Route. The approach to Base Camp is down
the separate Vacas valley system. The middle of the mountain
is covered by the Relinchos glacier, famed for its Neive
Penitentes (ice spikes on the glacier). From the high
camp on the Vacas / Polish route, the 360° route takes
the Falso de los Polacos across to join the Normal Route
just beneath the Canaletta, the rock scramble to the summit,
then descends the Normal Route to its base camp, so making
a 360° circuit and ascent of the peak.
Animated
diagram showing
the
route
of the ascent from the Vacas side
Objectives
of the Aconcagua Expedition
The
obvious primary aim of the expedition is to summit
Aconcagua 6959m, but this expedition is much more
than that. You will learn how to adapt your climbing
rate to your acclimatisation level, which is an essential
skill at altitude. The technical skills required,
such as glacier travel, crevasse rescue, and crampon
and ice axe work, are largely required on the upper
section of the mountain, at which time you are tired
and suffering from the altitude. A main expedition
objective is therefore to train you to a high level
in all these essential skills, that you will require
when your reserves are low at the top of the mountain,
and because of this the skills need to be developed
until they become instinctive to you. The altitude
requires that a series of camps are required to reach
the high camp. One of the main causes of failure on
Aconcagua are that the summit climb is so long from
the high camp. We are planning to establish a higher
camp at about 6400m, in order to allow you a better
chance of acclimatisation, and a shorter summit day.
Obviously this will necessitate the carrying of more
equipment up the mountain, but this high camp will
give the summit attempt groups a staging post on either
their ascent or descent. This is both a safety feature,
and also an attempt to enable everyone to acclimatise
further at a greater altitude.
Just
above base camp
Base
Camp Services
A key factor in the success of any
expedition is its how well rested and fed the team is,
and as the quote goes "an army runs on its stomach"!
Never one to forget hard lessons learnt by others, we
have really taken this point on board and have ensured
that the base camp is as comfortable as possible, and
that it provides great food in large quantities. We are
using a local team to operate a full time base camp with
the following services for us at Plaza Argentina:
Kitchen & Mess Tents with electric lights, tables,
chairs
Food: 3 meals a day (inc packed lunch) & hot drinks
Portaloo / Toilet Tent, Showers, & Equipment Store
Room
Staff: trained cook, camp manager, and
porters
Safety: radios (HF &
VHF 2m), Gammow bag, oxygen
Base
Camp Aconcagua
Photo
Gallery
Drop
off at the trailhead
Final
day of approach
In
the Relinchos Gorge
On
last day of approach
Loading bags on mules
View
of the Base Camp
Rest
day after approach
View
of Base Camp
Penitentes
near camp 1
Route
up to camp 2
View
from 6000m to BC
Camp
2 tent door views
View
from Casa Piedra
River
crossing near BC
Getting
to Plaza Argentina
Our
expedition tents
Outline
Expedition Itinerary for the Aconcagua 360° Expedition
Day
1
Fly
from London to Mendoza (Argentina), usually via Buenos
Aires. The flight takes over 24 hours.
Day
2
Arrive
in Mendoza in Argentina, meet local guiding team, night
in hotel on a B&B basis.
Day
3
Equipment
check, pack loads for mules, get peak permits, drive
to Vacas, trek to Pampa de Leñas.
Day
4
Trek
for about five to six hours, and the objective for the
day is the Casa de Piedra shelter 3200m.
Day
5
This
is the final day of the approach, and is a tough day
gaining 1000m in height, to base camp.
Day
6
As
you are over 4000m, it is usual to have a rest day at
Base Camp, and to sort your equipment.
Day
7
Ascend
to Camp 1, 5000m, over the next couple of days, ascending
the Relinchos glacier.
Day
8
Cross
the penitentes to Camp 1 at 5000m. The views back down
to the Base Camp are great.
Day
9
Ascend
to Ameghino Col for an intermediary camp on the way
up to setting up Camp 2.
Day
10
Establish
the high Camp 2 at 5900m, by traversing across to the
right under a line of cliffs.
Days
11 - 17
Summit
attempt days, after a rest day at Camp 2. Ascend to summit
by the Falso de Los Polacos route, and return to the high
camp on the Normal Route of the mountain.
Day
18
Descend
with all the equipment in one heavy load, back to the
Normal Route Base Camp.
Day
19
Trek
back to Punta de Vacas. The mules will carry all the
large bags, so you travel quite light.
Day
20
Trek
to Punta de Vacas, and leave the Park of Aconcagua.
Transfer to Mendoza and stay in hotel.
Day
21
Transfer
to the airport in Mendoza for your return flight to
the UK.
Day
22
The
end of the return flight back to the UK from Mendoza,
and the expedition is finally over.
ITINERARY
NOTES - Where
possible we follow the itineraries, but as mountaineering
is always weather and conditions dependant, we are sometimes
forced to alter the plans. If this is the case, a suitable
different route will be attempted, and you will be informed
at the first suitable opportunity. Please use this outline
course itinerary as a guide to the style of expedition,
with good conditions, as it will not necessarily be an
exact blueprint for the exact routes and schedule that
you will follow on the expedition.
Photo
Gallery
On
traverse up to Camp 3 (6100m)
Crossing
the Relinchos
moraines
Descending,
with summit behind
Previous
Skills & Fitness
Previous Skills- any
potential team member must meet both the requirements below:
1) A very good level of competence (stability) on mountaineering
crampons in both ascent & descent, 2) An ascent of a 4000m
peak, such as Mont Blanc 4810m in Chamonix (or another major
peak). Level of Fitness- Very
good aerobic fitness level. Upon
booking you will be sent an expedition dossier with training
training schedules. It can be viewed (and even printed) by clicking
here, and looking at Training Planner 4.
Key
Expedition Facts
Course
Duration - 3
weeks (22 days) Guides & Icicle Staff- On the mountain local
mountain guides
(not necessarily IFMGA) lead the
group, in accordance with the local laws regarding guiding.
An Icicle Rep will also be on the expedition for all groups
of six or more, in order to assist with
day to day logistics (not guiding). Accommodation- Shared
rooms (up to 4 sharing) in hotels, refuges, tents and bivouacs Dates- 19
December 2010 - 8 January 2011,
6
- 26 February 2011. Expedition
Price- £1999
per person Price
Inclusions- Mendoza
hotel accommodation on a room only basis, all road transport
by private vehicles, all camping facilities and meals on the
mountain (including base camp services as detailed above itinerary),
all costs for leaders / Guides / local helpers. Price
Exclusions- Flights
to Mendoza (Argentina), visa fees, Aconcagua
park permit (circa £150 sterling),
bar bills,
laundry, travel insurance, UK and foreign airport taxes, any
costs outside Argentina, optional trips, and tips. Equipment- We provide all the communal equipment
such as tents, ropes and cooking equipment. You provide all
your own clothing and personal kit such as boots, crampons,
& adequate sleeping bag.
We provide a detailed expedition kit list upon booking.