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Ama Dablam 6812m Expedition
Climbing Skill
Fitness & Stamina
PHOTO: View to Ama Dablam from the approach trek, shared with the Everest Base Camp trek.
Course Overview
PLEASE NOTE: All current expeditions to Ama Dablam are currently suspended. This follows the fatalities of other organisations expeditions on the mountain in November 2006. The cause of these fatalities was a section of the Dablam (ice cap serac) breaking off and sweeping Camp 3 and its occupants away. There is no alternative position for Camp 3 on the mountain, and the Dablam is still highly unstable. We are not in the business of playing Russian roulette. We accept that there are inherant risks in the mountains, but this is not what we consider an acceptable risk. Other outfits are still running trips up this mountain. We will not take that risk with your life, and so until further notice all our trips to Ama Dablam are on hold.
Ama Dablam is one of the worlds most stunning mountains, and is located in the Himalayas to the south of Everest and Lhotse in the Khumbu region. It is surrounded by many peaks that reach up to 24,000 feet high. Ama Dablam is a very steep peak, with vertical walls of rock and ice to surmount, so the exposure on it is enormous.
Many people pass this peak on the way to Everest base camp, and four out of the six highest mountains in the world can be seen from its summit. Ama Dablam is often attempted by those looking to test their ability at altitude before tackling a 8000m peak, such as Cho Oyu.
Dates: For current availability on this course click here. Please note that currently we have suspended all trips to this mountain until further notice. The reason for this is the instability of the icefall above Camp 3, which threatens the camp and its occupants. There is no alternative position for the camp, and so the summit day is too long for most from Camp 2, and it is too dangerous to stay at Camp 3.
Information about the mountain
The classic route on Ama Dablam is the Southwest Ridge, that was first climbed in 1961. Guides and Sherpas lead you up the route and fix lines where appropriate. The trek in to base camp takes several days, allowing gentle acclimatisation through the Khumbu region, as you follow part of the route to the normal route up Everest. Once you arrive at Ama Dablam base camp, normally four camps are established above it; advance base camp, and camps 1, 2 and 3.
Any ascent of this mountain is a technical and difficult climb, which should not be underestimated due to the presence of many sections of fixed rope. All expedition members have to cross difficult and exposed sections of iced up rocks, and steep snow or ice. The route above Advanced Base Camp is long and committing.
Above base camp, the route passes across several saddles on the ridge, over rocky and boulder strewn ground to reach the site of Camp 1. From here the route traverses a rocky bowl to reach thew ridge proper. Here fixed lines lead upwards over steep rocky ground to Camp 2. Above Camp 2 the route becomes a lot more icy, with gullies of snow and ice to cross. It ascends up a section of steep snow to emerge on the ridge that is the site of Camp 3. This is the top camp, amd from here a steep snow / ice slope up the "dablam" leads up to the summit.
Any queries?
If you have any questions, or would like and further information, please contact our Chamonix Office team directly. You can e-mail them on chamonix@icicleUK.com or call 00 33 67 55 621 55.

Daily Expedition Itinerary
1
 Flight to Katmandu.
2
 Arrival in Kathmandu.
3
 Drive to Gundu (2,005m). One hour drive from Kathmandu for acclimatisation.
4
 Visit Pulchoki, the highest point overlooking Kathmandu Valley .
5
 Drive to airport, fly to Lukla (2,800) & trek to Phakding (2,640m).
6
 Trek to Namche Bazaar (3,446m).
7
 Trek to Khumjung (3,790m).
8
 Trek to Tengboche Monastery (3,867m).
9
 Trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp.
10
 Rest day in BC and ceremonial puja.
11
 Rest day in BC and skills review.
12
 Carry loads to advanced base camp / Yak Camp (17,200 feet) at base of SW ridge.
13
 Rest day in BC.
14
 Move up to Camp I (19,600 feet).
15
 Carry up to Camp II (20,750 feet). Return to Camp 1.
16
 Return to BC. Rest day in BC.
17
 Rest day in BC.
18
 Move to Camp 1.
19
 Move to Camp 2.
20
 Move to Camp 3.
21
 Summit Day. Return to Camp 2.
22-24
 Extra days for summit and inclement weather. Some earlier rest days also can be used as extra days.
25
 Cleaning up Base Camp.
26
 Trek back base camp to Khumjung.
27
 Trek back to Phakding.
28
 Trek back to Lukla.
29
 Fly back to Kathmandu.
30
 Free day in Kathmandu.
31
 Depart from Kathmandu.
32
 Arrive back in UK.
N.B.
 ITINERARY NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountaineering and trekking is often weather and conditions dependant, so occasionaly we are forced to alter the plans. If this is the case, suitable alternatives will be are offered. Please use this outline course itinerary as a guide to the types of days you should expect, not necessarily the exact routes, as we must cater for everyone in terms of previous experience, fitness, and conditions.

Course Price: £2799
We can also organise flights to Kathmandu for you, at extra expense, as we are ATOL bonded.
Inclusions 1) 5 Nights accomodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast (3 star hotel), 2) Your peak permit fee for Ama Dablam, 3) Food for throughout the trek in and out of base camp, as well as for the climbing expedition period, 4) Expedition staff: Base camp staff, Guides / Sherpas, Cook(s), 5) Porters and Yak Porter from Lukla to Base camp, and back again at the end of the expedition, 6) Return internal flights between Kathmandu and Lukla, with a team cargo of up to 50kg per member, 7) Equipment allowance for communal gear, daily allowance for Liaison officer, and the expedition staff, 8) Insurance for the Nepalese expedition staff, 9) 1 tent per person for the expedition, 10) Dining tent, toilet tent, mess tent, stores tent, table and chairs etc, 11) Local transportation in Kathmandu (airport to hotel and back to airport), 12) Emergency oxygen, mask and regulator.
Exclusions 1) Travel to & from Kathmandu, 2) Equipment hire for the Guided / non-Guided time, 3) Bar / restaurant bills & tips, 4) Your personal laundry, telephone calls, lunches, & any purchases in huts / hotels / restaurants, 5) Extras before course: personal activities insurance, & excess baggage charges, 6) climbing food, gas & stove above base camp, 7) Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu, 8) Emergency rescue evacuation by helicopter (if required), 9) Radio permit & personal satellite phone permit, 10) Oxygen & mask / regulator if you opt to use one, 11) Garbage deposit USD 2000.00 (Split between all the expedition members), which is totally refunded if all clients take back their garbage to Namche Bazaar & Kathmandu.