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| Boots
& Key Alpine
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We get lots of enquiries from people about what equipment they
should consider buying, especially about boots, crampons, ice
axes, and rucksacks. This page answers many of these questions.
All clients who book on a course receive a Course Info Booklet
which
gives equipment selection advice, and a course specific equipment
list. In addition look at the Kit
List (click to link) page for
further details on different types of equipment.
The format of this
page is to review some of the most popular types in each category,
and then to provide further advice on fitting at the
base of each section.
Mountaineering
Trousers
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you really need to be told what to wear? Hopefully not,
but we do get a lot of queries each season about what
type of trousers are suitable for Alpine climbing, so
here you are! Any lightweight trekking or soft shell style
climbing trousers are fine, but if you are buying some
anyway, opt for lighter colours (not black) so you do
not get too hot in the sun. Internal features such as
snow skirts are good, but an optional bonus as you normally
wear gaiters over the top of the trousers for the majority
of the time. Also check that the waist buckle / fastening
system is comfy to wear under your climbing harness, so
it does not rub. Other
features to look for are crampon / scuff patches on the
inside leg at the base, as this area is usually where
Alpine tousers get the most wear. |
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do not need full on shell trousers or salopettes, except
for in the rain, and if it is raining, it is snowing up
high, so the chances are that the avalanche risk will
limit climbing anyway. Also
they are too heavy and lack flexibility and breathability.
Lightweight water-proof overtrousers are fine to put over
your climbing trousers in case of rain. The
four climbing trousers featured in the photos here are
all highly recommended for our Alpine courses, so clockwise
from top left the Mammut Courmayeur, Quechua Bionassay,
Patagonia Guide, and Patagonia Rock Pant. |
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suitable Alpine trousers are not lined, as this is too
hot, but have flexible and durable knees and often no
braces or bib so as to keep them light. For winter climbing
the same trousers are often fine, but with thermal leggings
underneath, or water-proof trousers over the top. In the
Alpine summers the temperatures in the valley can reach
mid 30's°C, and the freezing level is often above
4000m, so these trousers are generally all you are wearing
on your legs for the vast majority of the time. Your quadraceps
are doing a lot of hot work as you climb the mountains,
so keeping cool is normally more of an issue that keeping
warm. |
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Mountaineering
Boots
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Altitude
Expedition boots
(B3)
EXAMPLE
TYPE: Sportiva Olympus Mons, Millet Everest
GENERAL
INFORMATION: These
styles of boots are the softer and warmer version of
the B3 plastics. They too have a separate inner boot,
but the main feature is the integrated waterproof and
thermal gaiter which is built into the sole unit so
is always attached.
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: Only for expeditions to high
altitude such as Acocncagua or Mount Elbrus. Not for
the Alps.
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Plastic
boots (B3)
EXAMPLE TYPE: Asolo AFS, Scarpa Vega
GENERAL
INFORMATION: This boot is very warm, as it has an
inner boot and a plastic outer shell. The boot accepts
any type of crampon from technical to walking. On the
negative side, plastics tend to be quite "clumpy"
to walk in and can be unsensitive on hard climbs.
SUITABLITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: Only consider this type of boots
for our global expeditions, Alpine winters, or for altitude
ascents in Alpine summers.
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4
Season leather
boots (B3)
EXAMPLE
TYPE: Sportiva Nepal Extreme, Scarpa Freney
GENERAL
INFORMATION: This
type of boot has a solid sole unit, but a more flexible
upper section. There is built in insulation to the boot,
so it can be used in the summer or winter. It accepts
all types of crampons and is very versitile for all
types of climbing from rock to snow & ice. This
is the one boot solution for all our courses.
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: For all our Alpine courses,
this boot is perfect. It can be hired in Chamonix for
circa £5 per day.
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If
the La Sportiva Nepal
Extreme does not fit your
foot shape, then these
three models are equally
good for Alpine courses.
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Scarpa
Freney XT
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Scarpa
Phantom Lite
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Scarpa
Cumbre
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Alpine
approach boots (B2)
EXAMPLE
TYPE: Sportiva Trango, Garmont Tower
GENERAL
INFORMATION: This
style of boot can accept crampons, but is not very rigid,
and so is not suitable for technical climbs. It is useful
for glacier approaches, or easy grade rock routes and
via ferrata. It does not offer as much ankle support
as a B3 boot (see above), and is far too cold for courses
such as Mont Blanc.
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: Clients on Bastille / Alpine
rock courses will benefit from these boots as they are
lightweight.
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3
Season leather boots (B2)
EXAMPLE
TYPE: Scarpa Manta, Zamberlan Expert Plus
GENERAL
INFORMATION: This
type of boot is designed for winter hill walking and
so can accept crampons. It is not really an Alpine boot
due to the comparative lack of insulation, so cannot
be safely used at altitude (eg Mont Blanc), and the
flexible sole unit causes metal fatigue in crampons.
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: Whilst the boot is popular in
the UK, it is only suitable for trekking and introductory
level courses.
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Advice
on buying boots
1)
When buying some new boots, ask which types of crampons
will fit them. Grivel and Charlet-Moser crampons dominate
the market. For the Alps in summer Grivel G12's are ideal
choice for all the classic routes (eg Intro, Summits,
Matterhorn, Classics courses), whilst Grivel Rambo's are
good for the more technical courses (eg Extreme and Winter
Ice). Wearing more technical crampons than is necessary
for a route, can actually slow your progress, and is always
much less safe. Ask us for advice if you are in doubt.
2) Wear a normal thickness pair of socks when trying on
the boots, walk up and down stairs and kick the wall (or
a step) hard, to simulate crampons use on ice. If you
feel your toes on the front, go up another size. Shops
will not accept used boots back, and it could affect your
course.
3) Think how you will use the boots after your course,
and try to achieve a balance. A pair of plastics for use
on an Intro course is no use if all you will do on return
is to walk in the Lake District, but would be useful if
you were going to get into ice climbing in Scotland, or
return to the Alps again. Also consider how you will need
to maintain your boots, such as the regular waxing / treating
that leather boots require to keep the leather supple.
4) If a sales person is pushing you to getting a particular
pair, ask if they have used them.
Mountaineering
&
Technical Ice
Axes
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Classic
Mountaineering Axe
EXAMPLE
TYPE: Grivel Air Tech, Stubai Yellow Star
GENERAL
INFORMATION: This
type of axe is the classic Alpine form, with a curved
pick and a straight shaft. The rubber grip at the base
of the shaft is not always necessary, but is a good
feature. A leash is not needed for this style of axe
as you could trip up over it.
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: For all summer courses from
Intro level to Mont Blanc / Matterhorn, this is perfect.
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Curved
Classic Mountaineering Axe
EXAMPLE
TYPE: Grivel Evolution, DMM Cirque
GENERAL
INFORMATION: Several
manufacturers have started to produce a slightly curved
shaft on classic axes, to emulate the very curved shafts
of technical axes. This feature does not really save
your knuckles as the curve is so slight, but it handles
quite well.
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: This is only slightly better
than a classic shaped axe, but could be used on all
the same Icicle courses.
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Technical
Ice Axes (pair)
EXAMPLE
TYPE: Petzl-Charlet Quark
GENERAL
INFORMATION: This
type of axe comes in a adze (shown) and hammer form,
and is used in pairs on technical routes including ice
climbing, mixed routes and technical alpine. It can
be used with a leash, or leashless (by using a spur
/ cup at the base of the shaft).
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: For all ice climbing courses,
and for Advanced Level courses, and Tech "Ice &
Alpine" courses.
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Leashless
Technical Axes (pair)
EXAMPLE
TYPE: Petzl-Charlet Nomic / Ergo, BD Fusion
GENERAL
INFORMATION: These
types of axes are for very high level ice and mixed
/ dry tooling routes, and are leashless. They normally
only come as hammer versions, and are used in pairs.
The tools were developed to conform with Ice World Cup
regulations.
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: Only for ice climbing courses
where you are climbing grade V, or for dry tooling /
mixed routes.
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Dry
Tooling Leashless Axes (pair)
EXAMPLE
TYPE: Grivel X-Monster
GENERAL
INFORMATION: This
type of axe is not classified as PPE (Personal Protective
Equipment), as it is not strong enough to survive the
tests, as it is so lightweight. It is purely for expert
level climbers on technical dry tooling or mixed routes
of a very high grade.
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: Not suitable for any ice courses
unless you are booked on a specific dry tooling course.
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Advice on buying ice axes
Once
you have selected the
most suitable type of boot from the list above, the
next most important thing to consider is the handling
of the axe. This does not mean swinging the axes all
round the shop, but how the
weight and shape of the axe suit you. Always test an
axe wearing the kind of gloves that
you would use on the course, as different brands and
models have varying forms of shaft and head. In terms
of the length, for a technical axe, 50 or 55 cm is best.
For a classical axe, the length that is ideal for ice
axe arrests and general mountaineering is between 50
and 60 cm. There is a current trend for slightly shorter
axes, as they are more versatile, whilst long axes can
only really be used on snow plod type routes. Although
it was mentioned above, it is worth mentioning again;
you do not need a leash on a classical axe in the Alps.
It is common to see people using them say in Scotland,
but this is generally because they are less skilled
hill walkers, not mountaineers, and more importantly
the use of a leash on snow climbs restricts the ease
of swopping your axe immediately to the uphill hand
as you zig zag up a snow climb, so could make you unsafe.
The leashes are also a trip hazard. Another point to
note is that all axes sold in Europe are stress tested
by the UIAA, and are awarded either a B (basic) or T
(technical) rating. Basic axes will meet the needs of
snow mountaineering (self-arrest, boot-axe belays, glacier
climbing, chopping steps, etc.) but may not have the
strength to withstand high-impact forces like those
generated during ice climbing. Technical axes can withstand
these greater forces, and so are awarded the T rating.
Mountaineering
&
Technical Crampons
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12
point Mountaineering Crampons
EXAMPLE
TYPE: Petzl-Charlet Vasak, Grivel G12
GENERAL
INFORMATION: The
twelve point crampon is the classic type for mountaineering,
as it provides far more security than the 10 point walking
crampon. There are many bindings options, but the one
shown here is the most versatile, with plastic toe bail
and heel clip.
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: For all mountaineering courses
this is the best option, but not on most technical or
any ice courses.
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Hybrid
classic-tech Crampons
EXAMPLE
TYPE: Grivel G14
GENERAL
INFORMATION: This
crampon is essentially the back 10 points of a G12 (see
above), with some technical front points. It is a good
entry level ice climbing crampon, and can still be used
on snow routes, though note the front points get worn
on glacier travel / mixed.
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: For Intro and Improver ice courses,
and for Technical "Ice & Alpine" or Advanced
courses.
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Technical
Ice Crampons
EXAMPLE
TYPE: Grivel Rambo, Petzl-Charlet Dart
GENERAL
INFORMATION: These
vertical front points and agressive second and third
points are designed for hard ice or mixed routes. Generally
they all have metal toe bails. Often technical crampons
are unsafe for classic mountaineering, due to balling
up with snow.
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: For all ice climbing courses,
but not for any other non Advanced level mountaineering
courses.
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Advice on buying crampons
Apart
from choosing the
correct type of crampon, the next stage is to find one
that suits your boots. Some retailers use a C1, C2,
C3 system to mirror the B1, B2, B3 boot system. This
does not work as it is often possible to strap any crampon
to a B3 boot, and vice versa to strap a C1 boot to a
rigid crampon. The
results are not always ideal, but in some cases can
work. The best manufacturers of crampons are Grivel,
Petzl-Charlet, and Black Diamond. Take your boots to
the store to check the fit, so the crampon should
match the shape of the sole of your boot (ie. no gaps
on the
edge, or any points other
than the front and possibly second rows of points protruding
outside the footprint of the boot).
Mountaineering
&
Technical Rucksacks
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EXAMPLE TYPE:
Alpine Mountaineering rucksack, Lowe Alpine Attack,
Grivel, or Deuter
GENERAL
INFORMATION: The
ideal size for an Alpine rucksack is between 30 and
40 litres, if you are doing day climbs, or are staying
in a hut. A larger pack is required for technical routes
where a lot more kit needs to be carried, or you require
a bivouac. If you plan it right, on the summit (or coldest
part of the day), you should only have food, water,
and a spare layer of clothing in your bag, so a large
bag is not necessary. In the Alps the key is "light
is right".
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: Suitable for all Alpine courses,
but for expeditions a larger bag will be required. Also
note that for ski touring it is essential to have ski
straps on the side of the bag, which all the featured
models above offer.
Further
Advice
If you are booked on a course and require any further
advice, just e-mail or call the
Chamonix Reps, and they will help you steer clear of
costly mistakes and potentially dangerous choices.
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