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Welcome
to this page explaining all about Alpine equipment
We
get lots of enquiries from people about what equipment they
should consider buying, especially about boots, crampons, ice
axes, and rucksacks. This page answers many of these questions.
All clients who book on a course receive a Course Info Booklet
which
gives equipment selection advice, and a course specific equipment
list. In addition look at the Kit
List (click to link) page for
further details on different types of equipment.
The format of this
page is to review some of the most popular types in each category,
and then to provide further advice on fitting at the
base of each section. We hope it will answer your queries, and
help you avoid making any expensive mistakes. |
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Mountaineering
Boots
Good mountain boots are probably the single most expensive
piece of mountaineering equipment, and they often determine
your chances of success, as well as your comfort. Selecting
the right type of boot is crucial, and the table below explains
the different types that are on the market.
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Expedition
B3
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Alpine
4 season B3
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UK
4 Season B2
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Trekking
B2 boots
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Sportiva
Spantik, Olympus Mons |
E.g.
Sportiva Nepal Extreme, Scarpa Freney |
E.g.
Scarpa Manta, Zamberlan Expert Plus |
E.g.
Sportiva Trango, Garmont Tower |
| Info:
These
styles of boots are the softer and warmer version of the
B3 plastics. They too have a separate inner boot, but
the main feature is the integrated waterproof and thermal
gaiter which is built into the sole unit so is always
attached. |
Info:
This
type of boot has a solid sole unit, but a more flexible
upper section. There is built in insulation, so it can
be used in the summer or winter, and. It accepts all crampon
types so is versitile from rock to snow & ice. The
one boot solution for Alpinists. |
Info:
Designed
for winter hill walking and so can accept crampons. It
is not really an Alpine boot due to the comparative lack
of insulation, so cannot be safely used at altitude (eg
Mont Blanc), and the flexible sole unit causes metal fatigue
in crampons. |
Info:
This
style of boot can accept crampons, but is not very rigid.
It is useful for glacier approaches, or easy grade rock
routes and via ferrata. It does not offer as much ankle
support as a B3 boot (see above), and is far too cold
for courses such as Mont Blanc. |
| Uses:
Only for expeditions to high altitude such as Acocncagua
or Mount Elbrus. Not for the Alps. |
Uses:
For all our Alpine courses, this boot is perfect. It can
be hired in Chamonix for c.£5 / day. |
Uses:
Whilst the boot is popular in the UK, it is only suitable
for trekking and introductory level courses. |
Uses:
These boots are ideal for all our trekking and snowshoeing
courses as they are lightweight. |
| Alternatives:
The models featured below are also in this category of
boots. |
Alternatives:
The
models featured below are also in this category of boots. |
Podcast
author
Icicle
Podcast date
29/10/2010 |
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Podcast
on boots
In this podcast we explain the choice
of boot types and styles, and which
are the best for activities from trekking
to ice climbing. We look at crampon
compatability, insulation and flexibility
of the different boot types are considered...
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Asolo
AFS plastic
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Scarpa
Phantom Lite
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Scarpa
Freney XT
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Scarpa
Cumbre
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consider this type of boots for expeditions, Alpine winters,
or for cold ascents after fresh snow. |
If
the La Sportiva boots do not fit your foot shape, then
these models are equally good for Alpine courses. |
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Advice on buying and trying on boots:
When buying some new boots, ask which types of crampons will
fit them. Grivel and Charlet-Moser crampons dominate the market.
For the Alps in summer Grivel G12's are ideal choice for all
the classic routes (eg Intro, Summits, Matterhorn, Classics
courses), whilst Grivel Rambo's are good for the more technical
courses (eg Extreme and Winter Ice). Wearing more technical
crampons than is necessary for a route, can actually slow your
progress, and is always much less safe. Ask us for advice if
you are in doubt. Wear a normal thickness pair of socks when
trying on the boots, walk up and down stairs and kick the wall
(or a step) hard, to simulate crampons use on ice. If you feel
your toes on the front, go up another size. Shops will not accept
used boots back, and it could affect your course. Think how
you will use the boots after your course, and try to achieve
a balance. A pair of plastics for use on an Intro course is
no use if all you will do on return is to walk in the Lake District,
but would be useful if you were going to get into ice climbing
in Scotland, or return to the Alps again. Also consider how
you will need to maintain your boots, such as the regular waxing
/ treating that leather boots require to keep the leather supple.
If a sales person is pushing you to getting a particular pair,
ask if they have used them.
Mountaineering
&
Technical Ice Axes
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Classic
Mountaineering Axe
EXAMPLE
TYPE: Grivel Air Tech, Stubai Yellow Star
GENERAL
INFORMATION: This
type of axe is the classic Alpine form, with a curved
pick and a straight shaft. The rubber grip at the base
of the shaft is not always necessary, but is a good
feature. A leash is not needed for this style of axe
as you could trip up over it.
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: For all summer courses from
Intro level to Mont Blanc / Matterhorn, this is perfect.
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Curved
Classic Mountaineering Axe
EXAMPLE
TYPE: Grivel Evolution, DMM Cirque
GENERAL
INFORMATION: Several
manufacturers have started to produce a slightly curved
shaft on classic axes, to emulate the very curved shafts
of technical axes. This feature does not really save
your knuckles as the curve is so slight, but it handles
quite well.
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: This is only slightly better
than a classic shaped axe, but could be used on all
the same Icicle courses.
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Technical
Ice Axes (pair)
EXAMPLE
TYPE: Petzl-Charlet Quark
GENERAL
INFORMATION: This
type of axe comes in a adze (shown) and hammer form,
and is used in pairs on technical routes including ice
climbing, mixed routes and technical alpine. It can
be used with a leash, or leashless (by using a spur
/ cup at the base of the shaft).
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: For all ice climbing courses,
and for Advanced Level courses, and Tech "Ice &
Alpine" courses.
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Leashless
Technical Axes (pair)
EXAMPLE
TYPE: Petzl-Charlet Nomic / Ergo, BD Fusion
GENERAL
INFORMATION: These
types of axes are for very high level ice and mixed
/ dry tooling routes, and are leashless. They normally
only come as hammer versions, and are used in pairs.
The tools were developed to conform with Ice World Cup
regulations.
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: Only for ice climbing courses
where you are climbing grade V, or for dry tooling /
mixed routes.
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Dry
Tooling Leashless Axes (pair)
EXAMPLE
TYPE: Grivel X-Monster
GENERAL
INFORMATION: This
type of axe is not classified as PPE (Personal Protective
Equipment), as it is not strong enough to survive the
tests, as it is so lightweight. It is purely for expert
level climbers on technical dry tooling or mixed routes
of a very high grade.
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: Not suitable for any ice courses
unless you are booked on a specific dry tooling course.
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Advice on buying ice axes:
Once you have selected the
most suitable type of boot from the list above, the next most
important thing to consider is the handling
of the axe. This does not mean swinging the axes all round the
shop, but how the
weight and shape of the axe suit you. Always test an axe wearing
the kind of gloves that
you would use on the course, as different brands and models
have varying forms of shaft and head. In terms of the length,
for a technical axe, 50 or 55 cm is best. For a classical axe,
the length that is ideal for ice axe arrests and general mountaineering
is between 50 and 60 cm. There is a current trend for slightly
shorter axes, as they are more versatile, whilst long axes can
only really be used on snow plod type routes. Although it was
mentioned above, it is worth mentioning again; you do not need
a leash on a classical axe in the Alps. It is common to see
people using them say in Scotland, but this is generally because
they are less skilled hill walkers, not mountaineers, and more
importantly the use of a leash on snow climbs restricts the
ease of swopping your axe immediately to the uphill hand as
you zig zag up a snow climb, so could make you unsafe. The leashes
are also a trip hazard. Another point to note is that all axes
sold in Europe are stress tested by the UIAA, and are awarded
either a B (basic) or T (technical) rating. Basic axes will
meet the needs of snow mountaineering (self-arrest, boot-axe
belays, glacier climbing, chopping steps, etc.) but may not
have the strength to withstand high-impact forces like those
generated during ice climbing. Technical axes can withstand
these greater forces, and so are awarded the T rating.
Mountaineering
&
Technical Crampons
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12
point Mountaineering Crampons
EXAMPLE
TYPE: Petzl-Charlet Vasak, Grivel G12
GENERAL
INFORMATION: The
twelve point crampon is the classic type for mountaineering,
as it provides far more security than the 10 point walking
crampon. There are many bindings options, but the one
shown here is the most versatile, with plastic toe bail
and heel clip.
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: For all mountaineering courses
this is the best option, but not on most technical or
any ice courses.
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Hybrid
classic-tech Crampons
EXAMPLE
TYPE: Grivel G14
GENERAL
INFORMATION: This
crampon is essentially the back 10 points of a G12 (see
above), with some technical front points. It is a good
entry level ice climbing crampon, and can still be used
on snow routes, though note the front points get worn
on glacier travel / mixed.
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: For Intro and Improver ice courses,
and for Technical "Ice & Alpine" or Advanced
courses.
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Technical
Ice Crampons
EXAMPLE
TYPE: Grivel Rambo, Petzl-Charlet Dart
GENERAL
INFORMATION: These
vertical front points and agressive second and third
points are designed for hard ice or mixed routes. Generally
they all have metal toe bails. Often technical crampons
are unsafe for classic mountaineering, due to balling
up with snow.
SUITABILITY
FOR ICICLE COURSES: For all ice climbing courses,
but not for any other non Advanced level mountaineering
courses.
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Advice on buying crampons:
Apart from choosing the
correct type of crampon, the next stage is to find one that
suits your boots. Some retailers use a C1, C2, C3 system to
mirror the B1, B2, B3 boot system. This does not work as it
is often possible to strap any crampon to a B3 boot, and vice
versa to strap a C1 boot to a rigid crampon. The
results are not always ideal, but in some cases can work. The
best manufacturers of crampons are Grivel, Petzl-Charlet, and
Black Diamond. Take your boots to the store to check the fit,
so the crampon should
match the shape of the sole of your boot (ie. no gaps on the
edge, or any points other
than the front and possibly second rows of points protruding
outside the footprint of the boot).
Mountaineering
&
Technical Rucksacks
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EXAMPLE TYPE:
Alpine Mountaineering rucksack, Lowe Alpine Attack, Grivel,
or Deuter
GENERAL
INFORMATION: The
ideal size for an Alpine rucksack is between 30 and 40 litres,
if you are doing day climbs, or are staying in a hut. A larger
pack is required for technical routes where a lot more kit needs
to be carried, or you require a bivouac. If you plan it right,
on the summit (or coldest part of the day), you should only
have food, water, and a spare layer of clothing in your bag,
so a large bag is not necessary. In the Alps the key is "light
is right".
SUITABILITY FOR
ICICLE COURSES: Suitable for all Alpine courses, but for
expeditions a larger bag will be required. Also note that for
ski touring it is essential to have ski straps on the side of
the bag, which all the featured models above offer. |
Mountaineering
Trousers
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you really need to be told what to wear? Hopefully not,
but we do get a lot of queries each season about what
type of trousers are suitable for Alpine climbing, so
here you are! Any lightweight trekking or soft shell style
climbing trousers are fine, but if you are buying some
anyway, opt for lighter colours (not black) so you do
not get too hot in the sun. Internal features such as
snow skirts are good, but an optional bonus as you normally
wear gaiters over the top of the trousers for the majority
of the time. Also check that the waist buckle / fastening
system is comfy to wear under your climbing harness, so
it does not rub. Other
features to look for are crampon / scuff patches on the
inside leg at the base, as this area is usually where
Alpine tousers get the most wear. |
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do not need full on shell trousers or salopettes, except
for in the rain, and if it is raining, it is snowing up
high, so the chances are that the avalanche risk will
limit climbing anyway. Also
they are too heavy and lack flexibility and breathability.
Lightweight water-proof overtrousers are fine to put over
your climbing trousers in case of rain. The
four climbing trousers featured in the photos here are
all highly recommended for our Alpine courses, so clockwise
from top left the Mammut Courmayeur, Quechua Bionassay,
Patagonia Guide, and Patagonia Rock Pant. |
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suitable Alpine trousers are not lined, as this is too
hot, but have flexible and durable knees and often no
braces or bib so as to keep them light. For winter climbing
the same trousers are often fine, but with thermal leggings
underneath, or water-proof trousers over the top. In the
Alpine summers the temperatures in the valley can reach
mid 30's°C, and the freezing level is often above
4000m, so these trousers are generally all you are wearing
on your legs for the vast majority of the time. Your quadraceps
are doing a lot of hot work as you climb the mountains,
so keeping cool is normally more of an issue that keeping
warm. |
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