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Icicle's
Tour of Chamonix
Until the year of 1786, when Mont Blanc
was first ascended by Balmat and Paccard, the town of Chamonix
was very small and isolated. The ascent of Mont Blanc soon made
Chamonix a popular tourist location, and just over 200 years
ago the railway track to the town was built. This facilitated
the access to Chamonix for the tourists, and the town grew quickly.
In 1924 the first ever winter Olympics were held in the town,
and Chamonix really established itself as the Alpine capital.
Each year ski and climbing world cup events are held in the
town, as well as many famous sporting events, such as the Mont
Blanc Ultra Trail.
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"If
you like Winter - if you like Winter so much that you like
even the word
'Winter' - if you long for snow and are willing to work at
whatever keeps you
in it, then sooner or later you come to Chamonix. That's just
how it is."
Extract
from the novel
'
Cham'
by Jonathan Trigell
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The
town today
Many first time visitors are surprised
how large the town is, as Chamonix is very different from 'twee'
mountain resorts such as Zermatt and St Anton. You get the flavour
that Chamonix is a working town, and there are as many visitors
in the summer months as during the winter, which is rare in
Alpine towns. The history of Mont Blanc dominates the town,
and the names of Jacques Balmat, Dr Paccard, and Horace Benedict
de Saussure, are used for roads, buildings, and square names.
There are roughly 10,000 permanent residents of Chamonix, though
this figure can treble when tourist numbers are added. As a
town catering for 30,000 people, Chamonix boasts a sports centre,
swimming pools, ice rinks, climbing walls, schools, the national
Guide and Ski Instructor school, and literally hundreds of shops
and bars.
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The buildings are a mixture of old
and new, but there are a lot of typical haute savoie (pronounced
sav-waa) chalets and buildings, such as the Maison de
Montagne and the Majestique, dotted around the town centre.
This photo is of the central square, and on the right
is the l'Arve river which flows through the middle of
town. When you are in Chamonix, you will notice that the
river changes colour as a result of the weather. Hot weather
causes lots of glacial melt, and the water is chalky white.
In cold conditions the water runs clear, and when it is
rainy the water is brown.
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| Restaurants
& Bars |
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the population of Chamonix is so large in the peaks of
season, it has a huge selection of places to eat and drink.
Instead of providing a boring list of everywhere that
is open, we have selected our favourites. Needless to
say, we are climbers and skiers, so our focus is on good
food in large quantities and cheap bars with great atmospheres,
so if you are after "nouveau cuisine" we can't
help!
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Munster
Irish Bar
Located
in the 'Sud' just around the corner from the Icicle office,
you are always sure of a great welcome from Chris, Claire
and Sarah. Guiness is on tap, and we often end up here
on the last night of the courses.
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Caveau
Restaurant
It may be hard to find (opposite
the cimena, and below the Chinese restaurant), but it
is worth searching for. Built in an old stone cellar,
these pizzas and garlic bread with mozarella should not
be missed. Good pastas too.
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Micro
Brasserie de Chamonix (MBC)
As
you may have guessed from their logo, it is run by a crazy
bunch of French Canadians. Living up to its name all the
beer is brewed on-site, and there are three key choices;
the Blonde (lager), Granite (bitter), & Drus (stout).
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Vagabond
Bar
On the edge of town, the Vagabond is famous
as a gite / bunkhouse, as well as for its bar. It serves Guiness
and has a great terrace outside, from which you can admire the
whole Mont Blanc massif. Also does BBQ nights.
Jekyll Pub, Food, and Bar
The only Irish bar in Chamonix, close
to Chamonix Sud and the campsites. As well as good drinks, the
food is very good. The bar is on three floors, though you are
advised to book ahead if you wish to eat. Wood beams throughout.
Cantina Bar, Food, and Club
Excellent Mexican restaurant, with the
best fajitas and frozen margheritas in Chamonix. The club underneath
is open until 4am, and offers regular Drum & Bass nights.
There is even a hotel above the restaurant, which is cheap.
Midnight
Express
For a quick snack after a climb (or at
1am after a few too many beers), Midnight Express is famed for
its range of hot sandwiches, and is on the main pedestrian street
in town. The top option is the baguette poulet frites.
Chambre Neuf Bar
Next
to the train station in the town centre, this bar has live music
on Fridays through the season, and does the cheapest pitchers
of beer in town. Run by Scandanavians, the bar is always lively.
Open throughout year.
Note:
Be very careful where you choose
to eat out or drink in Chamonix, as prices vary massively. All
the places listed above are very competitively priced, but walk
into the wrong place and you could be buying a five pound pint
of beer, or a twenty pound salad! Generally the centre of town
is more expensive than the places near the edges.
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Shopping
Chamonix shops contrast massively, so
don't be surprised to walk past the Chanel and Patagonia shops
one minute and then bargain t-shirts, naff souvenirs, and stuffed
toy shops the next. Alpine sport shops dominate the town centre,
and there are tens of climbing equipment and ski shops to choose
from. The main chain of outdoor shops is the Twinner 3S brand,
two of which are a minute walk away from our Chamonix office.
Other popular shops include the Tiarraz photography and poster
shop on the road leading to the train station, and the Alpine
Library bookshop (opposite Snells on the main pedestrian street)
which sells a wide range of English language guidebooks as well
as a huge range of Alpine maps. If you visit Chamonix from outside
the EU, be sure to ask for the tax free shopping prices, or
keep all your receipts to claim the tax back off your purchases
as you leave France.
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Views
of Mont Blanc
Wherever you are in Chamonix, you only
need to look up to see that you are surrounded by mountains.
To to SW lies the main Mont Blanc massif, and from most places
in town you can look up to the summit of Mont Blanc. Descending
from the summit is the Bossons glacier, which is the largest
icefall in Europe. It descends to within a few hundred metres
from the valley floor. Directly above Chamonix on the opposite
side to Mont Blanc are the Aiguilles Rouges (Red Needles) mountains,
which get their name from the red granite rock that forms them.
To the south lie the Aiguilles du Chamonix, which contain some
of the most famous rock climbs in the Alps, such as the Charmoz
Grepon traverse, the Fou, Blatiere, Peigne, Pelerins, and Aiguille
de la Republique.
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Weather
& Seasons
The altitude of the town is 1030m, so
almost exactly four kilometers beneath the summit of Mont Blanc.
In the summer the snowline is roughly 3200m, though usually
from December to March the snowline is lower than Chamonix,
so the streets and roofs are covered in a blanket of snow. The
differences between summer and winter are incredible, so pack
your clothes carefully! In town in the summer months (June to
September), you can usually walk around wearing shorts and a
t-shirt and the temperatures can reach the mid to high thirties,
but in winter the daytime temperature can be as low as minus
fifteen in January or February, so wrap up warm. In the mountains
the summer temperature is roughly minus ten on Mont Blanc in
August, but take the wind chill factor into account. All visitors
notice that even on a cold day in the Alps it rarely feels as
cold as the UK. This is due to the air being a lot drier, and
in Chamonix you are usually outside exercising, so don't get
as cold.
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Cable
Cars
As far as ski or mountain resorts go,
Chamonix is quite low at just over 1000m above sea level. However
it is served by a very large range of cable cars and mountain
railways, which enable you to access the high altitudes with
great ease. The majority of lifts are owned by the Compagnie
du Mont Blanc, and this monopoly has a clear impact on prices.
A return ticket to the Aiguille du Midi costs about 35 Euros
(roughly 25 Pounds). Please note that on most Icicle courses,
especially in the summer months, the cost of all the cable cars
detailed in the course itinerary is included. Whilst the cable
cars are not cheap, they do include some of the most spectacular
routes in the world. The Aiguille du Midi is 3842m, and the
twenty minute ride to its summit is worth every penny. In the
winter season the Grand Montets is a favourite lift for skiers.
The cable cars are very busy in season, and some start as early
as 6am in the key months, but outside the busiest months (February,
March, July, & August), the hours are slightly reduced,
and out of season most are shut for repairs.
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When
to visit
As you will have seen from the 'Weather
& Seasons' and 'Cable Cars' sections above, Chamonix has
two key seasons; winter from mid December to mid April, and
summer from mid June to mid September. Outside these months
the weather is generally unstable (lots of cloud and rain),
and most of the cable cars are closed for the seasonal maintenance.
You will find cheap flights and accommodation during these off
months, but should you decide to visit, don't be surprised if
you find most shops and cable cars closed and have seven days
of rain. You have been warned! During the main summer and winter
seasons the weather is generally stable as anticyclonic (high
pressure) conditions dominate.
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| Places
of interest |
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Musee
Alpin: It illustrates the history the Chamonix,
including the first ascents of the local Alpine summits,
life in the 19th Century, paintings & ski history.
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Maison
de la Montagne: In here is housed the high mountain
office, where route information and maps are stored,
as well as weather & avalanche offices.
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Place
Balmat : In this central square in town, you will
find two statues. One has two characters; Balmat and
de Saussure. The single figure statue is of Dr Paccard.
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Information? You should
visit the award winning Chamonix Tourist Office in the
centre of town for free leaflets and advice on all the
tourist attractions mentioned here. Most of the staff
speak English, and are very helpful. If you want to visit
their web site, click on the following link:
Chamonix
Tourist Office Website. |
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Top
10 activities
1.
Aiguille du Midi cable car. At a height of 3842m, this is the
highest passenger cable car in the world, and offers great views
of the Mont Blanc massif. There are several viewing platforms,
shops and even a restaurant. Remember to wrap up warm.
2. The Montenvers mountain railway gives
access to the Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice) Glacier, with spectacular
views of the Grandes Jorasses and the Dru / Aiguille Verte massif.
The glacier also has an ice cave and crystal gallery to look
around.
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Gaillands: a famous rock climbing crag on the edge of
town, by woods and lakes. |
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Arve: the river that runs through town is famed for its
hydroglisse and rafting. |
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Mountain Biking: you can hire good bikes in town, and
get lift passes for many runs down. |
6.
Canyoning: there are several good gorges in the region
for canyoning days in summer. |
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Paragliding: you can opt for tandem flights from a variety
of cable car stations in the valley. |
8.
Helicopter Flights: there are flights available from £25pp,
and you can fly over Mont Blanc. |
9.
Vallee Blanche: hire a Guide for the day and descend the
world famous off piste route. |
10.
Snow Shoeing: in the winter months, this enables you to
walk in some remote areas. |
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Sightseeing
nearby
Chamonix is situated within a half hour
drive of either Switzerland and Italy, so if you have some time
to spare, this section offers some advice on sightseeing in
all three countries within a maximum drive of one hour from
Chamonix.
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France
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Italy
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Switzerland
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Le
Brevent - excellent view of the massif including the
Aiguille du Midi & Mont Blanc.
Lac Blanc & Flegere - view of the Mer de Glace
and summits of Verte & Jorasses.
Aiguilles Rouges - nature reserve centre at Col
des Montets, and good trekking paths.
Musee des Mines d'Argent - silver mining museum
of the history running up to 1908.
Gorges de la Diosaz - the gorge of the Diosaz contains
waterfalls and via ferrata.
Notre Dame de la Gorge - chapel, built in 1707,
at the heart of a wooded valley.
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Courmayeur
- Italy's answer to Chamonix, on the south facing side
of Mont Blanc.
Val Ferret - here there are many good walks on
sections of the Tour du Mont Blanc.
Val Veny - the glaciers from the south side of
the massif almost reach the valley floor.
Val de Cogne - most famous in winter for the huge
range of ice climbing routes that form.
Macaby - a huge rock climb (with path up the back)
to reach a ruined monastery on top.
Dalle de l'Amone - a huge slab, that is good rock
climbing in the dryest summer months.
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Martigny
- an old Roman town, surrounded by vineyards, and containing
a very well preserved amphitheatre, a sculpture park,
and some very famous art galleries.
Emmoson - this dam was famed for the Bond film
Goldeneye, where the opening scene involved a bungy
jump from the top. Good walks around both lakes.
Dinosaurs - above the higher Emmison lake there
is a rock where many hundreds of dinosaur footprints
have been clearly preserved. About a three hour walk
total.
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