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PHOTO:
View to Denali massif from the National Park.
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| Course
Overview |
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Denali
is the highest mountain in the whole of North
America. It is also called Mount McKinley.
Denali, which means 'the high one', lies 250km
north of Anchorage in the Alaska Range, very
close to the Arctic Circle. As the photo below
shows, it rises suddenly from the arctic tundra
and forests. The mountain, and surrounding
area is all in a National Park. |
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The
classic route up Denali, is the Western Buttress.
It is not technically difficult, but a very
high level of fitness is required. The steepest
sections of this route are no more than 45
degrees on ice, though these are protected
by fixed lines. This steepest section is called
the Headwall. The largest problem to overcome
on Denali is usually the weather and the very
low temperatures. Upon booking you are sent
a very detailed equipment list. |
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To
reach the Western Buttress, you first ascend
the well marked trail up the Kahiltna Glacier,
where the main danger is crevasses. Our expeditions
are timed to be in the period when the snow
bridges are still well bridged, as by mid
June many of the larger crevasses can only
be passed by large traverses to detour round
them. On the glacier you usually travel on
snowshoes, as this spreads you weight out
to minimise the risk of snow bridges collapsing. |
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On
the Headwall there are usually at least two
fixed lines, one for ascending groups, the
other for descent. Ascenders are used for
safety, and training in their use will be
provided. At the top of the Headwall there
is a narrow snow ridge, which is very exposed,
though not difficult. This leads to the top
camp, from where the route winds its way up
through quite mixed and varied terrain to
emerge on the summit snow ridge. |
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This
mountain, more than many others of similar
altitudes, has an itinerary that often has
to be altered and adapted due to the conditions.
You must accept that to ascend this peak,
you must be very adaptable to make the best
of the prevailing situations to maximise your
summiting chances. You must appeciate the
importance of this flexibility. |
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In
accordance with the National Park rules, all
our expeditions are led by a qualified and
Park approved Alaskan guide. They will be
supported by assistant guides to a climbing
ratio of one guide per three clients. This
is essential to provide flexibility. |
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Dates: We only run this
expedition on demand for groups of two or
more in the key climbing season of mid May
to early June. Sorry there are no scheduled
dates for this trip for individuals to join. |
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| Information
about the mountain |
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As
one of the Seven Summits, Denali attracts
climbers from all over the world and so ascending
it has a truely international flavour. Despite
its reputation for cold and bad weather, the
Western Butress route still sees several hundred
people attempt the climb each year, the popularity
mainly due to the relative accessibility and
comparative ease of the route. |
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Denali
is not however a mountain to underestimate,
as the altitude takes a big toll due to the
northerly latitude, and the huge physical
and psychological pressures of enduring the
extreme weather that often hits the mountain.
The effect of these influences often makes
this peak seem as large an undertaking as
one of the major Himalayan peaks. |
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As
far as the range of temperatures that you
should expect to encounter on this peak, in
early to mid May it is not uncommon to encounter
temperatures of -50F at the high camp at 17,300
(Camp 6). All those booking on this trip are
sent a full expedition dossier, with detailed
equipment lists which outline all the clothing
and equipment required to counter the cold. |
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Any queries?
If you have any questions, or would like and
further information, please contact our Chamonix
Office team directly. You can e-mail them
on reps@icicleUK.com or call 00 33 67 55 621
55. |
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Daily
Expedition Itinerary |
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1
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Fly
from the UK to Anchorage |
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2
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Fly
up to Talkeetna, where you are briefed
at the Ranger Station. This covers information
on weather, safety, rubbish disposal
etc. Also your permits are issued here
for climbing on Denali. Fly
onwards to the Kahiltna base camp. This
is situated on the bank of the Southeast
Fork of the Kahiltna glacier. Then you
move onto the main glacier to arrange
equipment for the next day. During the
flight in to Kahiltna you should get
good views of Foraker, Hunter and the
Moose's Tooth. |
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3
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The
day's objective is to carry loads
up the glacier to establish the next
camp. Snowshoes are often used on
the lower section of the mountain,
and double carries are sometimes made
between most camps to allow for proper
acclimatisation and lighter load carries.
However on the lower section of the
mountain, especially up to Camp 1
a single carry is often possible.
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4
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Today
you move onwards to establish an equipment
cache at around 8,500 at the site of
the future Camp 2. When this has been
done, you descend back to Camp 1 to
acclimatise better. This follows the
age old advice of climbing high, sleeping
low. This acclimatisation style is essential
for gradual adjustment to the altitude. |
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5
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You
move back up to Camp 2 at 8,500 with
the remaining equipment, and set up
camp with the loads carried today and
from the previous day's cache. |
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6
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The
next two days follow the same formula,
with a cache and then a second carry
up to establish Camp 3 at 11,000. Today
is the carry and cache, and in the afternoon
you return to Camp 2 to sleep. |
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7
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This
is the day of the move up to Camp 3,
and you ascent over steeper terrain
than before. From Camp 3 you gat rewarded
with amazing views onto the 3,000 foot
high Western Buttress. |
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8
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After
several days of hard work, you are rewarded
with a rest day before continuing further
up the mountain. This is very important
for acclimatisation, and it is also
used to sort all the kit out. Items
such as snowshoes and some reserve food
and fuel are stashed here to collect
on the descent. |
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9
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You
are now on the Western Buttress proper.
The first aim is the mound of Motorcycle
Hill to gain the bowl beneath the infamous
Windy Corner. The goal is to cache the
equipment for Camp 4 at around 13,500.
From this spot you get great views down
onto the upper Kahiltna Glacier, over
4,000 feet below you. |
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10
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Today
you make the second carry up to the
previous day's cache and set up Camp
4. Above here is the famous Headwall,
the steepest section of the route, so
a good night's sleep is encouraged. |
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11
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Above
Camp 4 you gain about half the height
on a snow slope to reach the start of
the fixed lines. Usually there is one
line for ascending, and another for
descending. On the fixed lines you use
handled ascenders (jumars) to protect
your ascent. The lines lead you up the
Headwall to reach the ridge crest of
the Western Buttress. As you are ascending
the fixed lines, other mountain tops
drop away behind you. The cache is made
on the crest, and you return to Camp
4. |
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12
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Today
you move up again to establish Camp
5 at the top of the Headwall. |
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13
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Above
the Headwall the ridge is quite exposed
to pass the Washburn Tower. Here you
are emerging onto the upper section
of the mountain, and the Camp 6 cache
is established on the col above Rescue
Gully. You then return to Camp 5 for
the night. |
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14
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Move
up to establish Camp 6 at 17,300 feet,
which is the highest camp on the mountain. |
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15
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Today
is a final rest and acclimatisation
day, though often it is quite busy protecting
the tents with snow block walls. This
is essential to safeguard your camp
for during the night and whilst on your
summit bid. |
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16
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This
is the summit day, and you set off very
early. The first objective is the Denali
Pass at 18,100 feet, then you ascend
the gentle slopes to reach the buttress
of the Arch Deacon's tower. This is
situated in the 'football field', a
bowl at 19,400 feet beneath the final
slopes and ridge leading to the summit
itself. It takes most people between
8 and 12 hours to reach the top and
return to Camp 6. On the summit, you
get amazing views onto the huge south
face and the Cassin Ridge and South
Buttress. The final ridge is very exposed,
and from the vantage point of the summit,
you look down the immense 8,000' South
Face, with Cassin Ridge and the South
Buttress in full view. The peaks around
you that are in full view are Hunter,
Huntington and Foraker, as well as tens
of others. |
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17
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From
the high camp, you descend back to Camp
5 to retrieve any cached equipment.
The goal is to descend as far down the
mountain as is possible, to minimise
the effects of altitude and the weather. |
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18
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Most
groups manage to descend all the way
to Camp 3 on the previous day, but today
is a rest day at a reasonable altitude
to sort out kit and to recover from
the ascent. You will find that descending
the mountain is tough too, so the descent
will be appreciated by all. |
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19
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Today
you descend all the way back to the
Kahiltna base camp to wait for the flight
off the glacier. |
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20
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Fly
back to Talkeetna and check in to the
Ranger Station. The rangers are very
strict checking that all the equipment
and rubbish has been taken off the mountain,
and fines are imposed on those who fail
to comply. You ensure that all food,
fuel, waymarking wands, and equipment
is carried out. |
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21-23
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These
three days are available for delays
due to weather, conditions, etc. |
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24
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Fly
back to Anchorage. |
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25
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Return
flight to the UK. |
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N.B.
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ITINERARY
NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries.
Mountaineering and trekking is often
weather and conditions dependant, so
occasionaly we are forced to alter the
plans. If this is the case, suitable
alternatives will be are offered. Please
use this outline course itinerary as
a guide to the types of days you should
expect, not necessarily the exact routes,
as we must cater for everyone in terms
of previous experience, fitness, and
conditions. |
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Course Price: from
£3250pp
We can also organise
flights to Anchorage for you, at extra expense,
as we are ATOL bonded.
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| Inclusions |
1)
2 Nights accomodation in Anchorage with
bed & breakfast (3 star hotel), 2) Transportation
between Anchorage and Talkeetna, return
trip, 3) Food for throughout the expedition
period on the mountain, 4) Glacier flight
from and to Talkeetna, 5) All group equipment
(tents, ropes, cooking kit, etc), 6) Mountain
guides fees.
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| Exclusions |
1)
Travel to & from Anchorage, and airport
taxes, 2) Any charges for changing flight
dates or times, 3) Extra night(s) in Anchorage
at the end of the trip, 4) Your personal
laundry, telephone calls, lunches, &
any purchases in huts / hotels / restaurants,
5) Extras before course: personal activities
insurance, & excess baggage charges,
6) Accommodation in Talkeetna (if needed),
7) Meals in Anchorage and Talkeetna, 8)
Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter
incase needed, 9) Your personal equipment,
10) National Park Permit (currently 200$USD),
11) National Park entrance fee (currently
10$USD).
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