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Dry
Tooling & Mixed Climbs 2011
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PHOTO:
Dry tooling in a gorge near to Val de Cogne in Northern Italy.
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FEEDBACK:
"Amazing course that was challenging
every day, and an excellent introduction
to the wonders of drytooling - I've never done so many heel
hooks in my life!!
Thanks a million" Anna W, Margate, 2005
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| Course
Overview |
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If
you are a competant ice climber seeking the next challenge,
dry tooling and mixed routes are next. This course can
be run over a week, or just two days Guiding for those
seeking a long Alpine weekend. |
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From
its beginnings as a way of accessing ice by crossing sections
of rock to reach the next icicle, it has developed as
a sport in its own right, requiring good balance, co-ordination
and flexibility. |
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Those with a good level of technical rock climbing may
find the style of movement similar, as you use small cracks,
holds and ledges for support. Technical ice axes and crampons
are essential, and there are usually the skills of torquing
and axe stein pulls involved. |
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Apart
from valley routes you can also try this style of climbing
on altitude Alpine routes, such as the Goulotte Cosmiques
or the Contamine routes on the North Face of Mont Blanc
du Tacul. |
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This
course is led by one of our most talented dry tooling
Guides who can climb M9 minimum, so you are guaranteed
to be pushed to the very limits of your capability. |
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Dates:
On
demand from middle of December to the end of April (excluding
Christmas & New Year week). Please contact us for
details of the conditions and to discuss your experience. |
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The
course at a glance... |
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Week course at a 1:1 guiding ratio for £1699, or
a 1:2 guiding ratio £999 per person. |
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Ice climbing experience seconding Grade IV /V necessary.
Avalanche kit is included. |
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Top tip... you could refresh your skills before this course
with a Winter
Ice Weekend |
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You could also consider week long...Waterfall
Ice & Gullies or
Winter
Intro Ice & Alpine |
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Brief
Course Itinerary (week long course)
The
itinerary is flexible to cater for your previous experience,
and aspirations. The itinerary below is a guideline for the
week long dry tooling / mixed course, but gives examples of
what you could also achieve on a three day weekend course. |
| Sun |
Travel
to Chamonix to arrive for the 18:00 check-in followed
by and course safety and itinerary briefings. There is
time for kit checks or rental of equipment. Briefings
are over by 20:00 and the Chamonix hosts accompany the
group to pre-dinner
drinks to answer any queries.
Night in Chamonix. |
| Mon |
Refresh
your ice climbing skills on valley waterfall ice, with
mixed sections, such as Cremerie icefalls. Also practice
placement of ice screws, runners & screamers, building
anchors and leading. Night in Chamonix. |
| Tue
& Wed & Thu |
For
these three days you can learn to to push your climbing
grade on mixed and dry sections. These climbs can either
be valley based, or can be climbs accessed by the altitude
cable cars. There is also the opportunity to climb in
nearby Val de Cogne, Italy (one hour drive). Small guiding
ratios at a maximum of 1:2 give you the opportunity
to climb technical routes at the highest grade you can
find, whilst developing your technique on different
types of mixed or ice columns.
Popular climbs in Chamonix valley include: The gorge
d'Arveyron, Chatelard, & Argentiere Icefalls
Popular climbs in Val
de Cogne include: Repentance (V+), Cold
Couloir, Lau Bij, Ice Files, etc
On Thursday evening you return to Chamonix to allow
you an early start on Friday for another route.
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| Fri |
A
day to use your increased
confidence and technique for a more difficult mixed or
ice route in the Chamonix valley, such as Grade
VI Icelander or Megeve. Night
spent in Chamonix. |
| Sat |
Breakfast,
then course debrief, with feedback and questions and answers
session. Depart for home. |
ITINERARY
NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain adventures
are weather and conditions dependant, so occasionaly we are
forced to alter the plans. If this is the case, suitable alternatives
are offered. Please use this outline itinerary as a guide to
the types of route / activity that you will attempt. |
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| Course
Prices |
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1:2
ratio course
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5
days guiding, 7 days holiday in total |
£999pp |
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1:1
ratio course
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5
days guiding, 7 days holiday in total
(Note that this is the ideal ratio
for this course) |
£1699 |
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Secure
online booking system |
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Course Inclusions: 1) IFMGA Mountain Guide
for five days (week long course) or two days (weekend
course), 2) Chamonix course hosts for logistics &
briefings, 3) Pre course information booklet, 4) Equipment
discount voucher for UK shops, 5) Six nights (week long
course) or two days (weekend course) B&B accommodation
in Chamonix, (inc. bedding & towels), 6) Chamonix
Free 36 page technical Course Instruction Booklet, 8)
Road transport in Chamonix valley, 9) Chamonix office
support. |
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| Exclusions:
1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Cable Cars (approx
£30), 3) 3) Equipment hire, 4) Personal laundry,
telephone calls, lunches, evening meals, & any purchases
in mountain huts / hotels / restaurants, 5) Activities
insurance, & excess baggage charges. |
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| Notes:
The
loan of all avalanche safety kit is included (avalanche
tranceiver, avalanche probe and shovel). |
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| Upgrade
options |
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Acclimatisation
Weekend
£99
(throughout the season) |
To
get the most out your course, acclimatisation is
essential so that you minimise the chances of AMS
(altitude sickness) later on during your course,
details. |
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Avalanche
Skills Day
£49
(throughout the season) |
To
learn avalanche prediction, reutschblocks and use
of avalanche tranceivers. Course is available on
any day during the week (includes ARVA),
details. |
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