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Ascent of the Eiger 2010
Icicle guide on the Mitilleggi Arête of the Eiger
FEEDBACK: "Climbing the Mitilleggi Arête was awesome, and my Guide made me feel safe
while I tacked one of the most revered summits in the world by a tough route. Thanks for
all your planning to help this happen
"
Stuart W, Dundee, 2001
Course Overview

The Eiger is one of the most famous and feared mountains in the world, due to the renowned difficulty of the routes on it's North face or 'Nordwand'. For those looking to climb this great mountain by a less dangerous method, there are a choice of routes up the mountain, namely the Mitilleggi Ridge and the West Arete. The course starts by climbing similar classic routes in Chamonix, to fine tune your skills and ropework, and to assist your acclimatisation.

Many famous Alpine summits can be climbed with a low amount of skill or talent. This is not so for the Eiger, and inexperienced peak baggers should beware that their chances of success will be low. To consider yourself for this course, you should be very fit, have good footwork on steep ground (including on rock with crampons), and also have good ropework skills.
This course should also appeal to those who have attended a Classics, Mont Blanc Summits or Matterhorn course. If you have significant previous rock climbing experience, but not much crampon or alpine experience, this can be developed over the week of the course as of greater importance are your ropework, ability with exposure and balance / stability on your crampons.
Please also note that the itinerary for this course must be fluid, as you will need to grasp the best 'weather window' for a summit attempt, which presents itself during your course. This means that if the weather window for the ascent is during the first half of the week, you must be prepared to head straight for Grindelwald on the first day to attempt the Eiger first, then return to Chamonix to attempt other climbs afterwards.
As Icicle have an office based in the centre of Chamonix (so are in France rather than in the UK), and our Course Reps are based there throughout the year, we have excellent local contacts and knowledge of the local conditions both in France, Italy and Switzerland, for optimising your chance of summit success.
This course is run on a 1:2 Guiding ratio for the first three days, so the Guide can assess and devlop your skills and abilities before attempting the Eiger (1:1 ratio), to move at your speed while you are on the routes.
Up to two nights in mountain huts are included in the course price. To keep the price low for you, and give you the greatest route flexibility, your cable cars in Chamonix and Grindelwald are not included in the course price, and when you go to Grindelwald you must pay for the Guide cable car (budget on around £120 total). All Guide cable cars around Chamonix are included, as are the costs or travelling between Chamonix and Grindelwald.
Dates: 18 - 24 July 2010, 25 - 31 July 2010, 1 - 7 August 2010, 8 - 14 August 2010, 15 - 21 August 2010, 22 - 28 August 2010. Dates for this course run on demand for groups of two people. For current availability on this course click here.
So why choose Icicle?
We are true specialists in climbing the Eiger. See our blog, by clicking on the RSS logo (right).
Itinerary flexibility to allow you to take full advantage of the weather and conditions each day, so that you maximise the amount of time spent climbing each day.
Our prices are fixed in £ pounds sterling, to protect you from euro currency fluctuations, so that you can budget accurately.
We have a team of over 30 IFMGA guides, and a resort support team, who all want you to have the best summit chances possible! For more details on the guiding team and qualifications, please click here.


Course Photo Gallery


Brief Course Itinerary
Sun Travel to Chamonix to arrive for the 17:00 check-in and course / itinerary briefings. There is time for kit checks or rental. Briefings are over by 20:00 so you can go out for food. Night in Chamonix.
Mon Altitude Route: Either climb Chappelle de la Gliere, Aiguille de L'M or Petit Charmoz. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Return to Chamonix for the night.
Tue Altitude Route: Either climb Aiguille d'Entreves or the Marbrée Arete. Possibility of staying in a hut for the night, such as the Torino, for an Alpine start the next day. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max).
Wed Either another day route such as the Chere Couloir, or an Alpine start from the hut for a route such as the Dent du Geant or the Rochefort Arete. Return to Chamonix for the night. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max).
Thu Drive over to Grindelwald. Ascend the Jungfraujoch railway, spend time training on glacier. Traverse to Mitilleggi Mountain Hut for the night. Guiding ratio 1:1 (max).
Fri Alpine start for the ascent of the Mitilleggi ridge of the Eiger. After you reach the summit, you then descend the normal route to Monchjoch, then traverse the glacier to Jungfraujoch to catch the Eiger train which descends to Grindelwald, from where you return to Chamonix, where you spend the final night of your holiday. Guiding ratio 1:1 (max).
Sat Final instruction in the morning, which covers avalanche prediction and Alpine weather. There is also an opportunity for individual feedback. By 12:00 midday you are free to depart for home.
ITINERARY NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain adventures are weather and conditions dependant, so occasionaly we are forced to alter the plans. If this is the case, suitable alternatives are offered. Please use this outline itinerary as a guide to the types of route / activity that you will attempt.


Course Photo Gallery

Course Prices
Standard course
5 days guiding, 7 days holiday in total £1499
Premium course
7 days guiding, 8 days holiday in total
(Standard course plus Acclimatisation weekend)
LINK
£1598
Secure online booking system
Standard Course Inclusions: 1) IFMGA Mountain Guide for five days, 2) Chamonix course hosts for logistics & briefings, 3) B&B accommodation in Chamonix (inc. beddings & towels), 4) Up to two nights half board in mountain hut (inc. costs for guides), 5) Pre course information booklet, 6) Equipment discount voucher for UK shops, 7) Free 36 page technical Course Instruction Booklet, 8) Road transport in Chamonix valley including road transport to / from the Oberland region, 10) Evening technical instruction on nights in Chamonix.
Exclusions: 1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Equipment hire, 3) Personal laundry, telephone calls, lunches, evening meals in valley, & any purchases in mountain huts / hotels / restaurants, 4) Cable cars and uplift for you and your guide (cable cars for guide included in Chamonix), 5) Activities insurance, & excess baggage charges.
Icicle expedition kit bag for FREE
All those booking on this course are entitled to a free Icicle expedition kit bag. This tough c. 75 litre capacity kit bag is designed for full expedition usage and is made out of durable and waterproof rip-proof material. It normally retails at £50. Postage within the UK is included in the prices. If you live overseas, it's not a problem at all. We'll let you know the price for postage. Want a second bag? Order another, click here.
Upgrade options
Eiger 1:1 Course
£1999 (1:1 guiding)
This is the course as detailed above, but with all the five days guiding being 1:1 guide ratio, to give you maximum flexibility and the best summiting chances.
Mont Blanc Extension
£449pp (1:2 guiding)
This is a two day Mont Blanc extension directly after the main course, with the days for guiding being Saturday and Sunday, click here for details.
Half Board Upgrade
£99 (throughout the season)
For every night that you are in town, you eat in a different restaurant in the centre of Chamonix. Always three courses, to power you for the next day.
Private Room Upgrade
£120
(7-27 June & 6-26 Sept)
£150 (28 June - 5 Sept)
The course accommodation is usually in rooms of two sharing. Two people booking / sending forms together are guaranteed a room of two sharing. This upgrade guarantees you a private room on your own for your course.