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1:1 Advanced Course 2010
Rebuffat Route, South Face of Aiguille du Midi
FEEDBACK: "Your Guide team is unmatched anywhere I have been before, as shown by the grade and
number of routes I ascended this week. You should be proud to have such a skilled team of Guides.
Thanks also to t
he staff for their advice, and for driving us around each day
"
Mark G, Kendal, 2004
Course Overview

Some of the hardest and most famous routes in the massif are only possible in the summer months, notably some of the great rock routes such as the Grand Capucin, the South Face of the Aiguille du Midi, and the Gervasutti Pillar on Mont Blanc du Tacul. As well as these rock routes, you still have access to the mixed routes such as the Frendo Spur, Moine Ridge of the Aiguille Verte, or the Frontier Ridge of Mont Maudit.

This course is designed to enable you to achieve some of your greatest ambitions. The course is therefore aimed at competant / strong climbers, who would benefit from climbing with a Guide in order to really push the grade at which they climb, and to achieve some notable routes.
More than any of our other courses, this one gives you the flexibility to attempt routes of a style that you choose, and many opt for some of the most remote corners of the Mont Blanc Massif.

The key points about the course are:
1) The 1:1 guiding ratio throughout ensures that you achieve the maximum
2) This course is precisely tailored to your skills and aims, as well as conditions
3) It is run flexibly to take advantage of your progression, and your route choices
4) Recent courses ascended the Frendo, Contamine (Midi), & Petit Jorasses

This is one of our highest level standard courses, though please note that if you would like to attempt routes harder than are suggested here, such as the Traverse of the Grandes Jorasses, we are more than happy to devise an itinerary and quote especially for you. Due to the nature of the ascents being attempted in this course, we match a Guide to you which compliments your experience, personality and aspirations.
Dates: this course is operated on demand from June to September. For current availability on this course click here.


Course Photo Gallery


Brief Course Itinerary
Sun Travel to Chamonix to arrive for the 18:00 check-in followed by and course safety and itinerary briefings. There is time for kit checks or rental of equipment. Briefings are over by 20:00 and the Chamonix hosts accompany the group to pre-dinner drinks to answer any queries. Night in Chamonix.
Mon TEST DAY: Breakfast is generally at 07:30 in the Icicle base, and then you meet up with your Guide for the day. The aim of the day is for the Guide to push you to test your limits, so that you can decide on a suitable itinerary for the rest of the week. Guiding ratio 1:1 (max). Night spent in Chamonix. Some common test days are listed:
1) Aiguille du Midi, ascent of Rebuffat or Contamine route on the South Face Pillar
2) Eperon Cosmiques, ascent of rock route, then follow the Cosmiques Arete to Midi
3) NNE Ridge of Aiguille de l'M, then traverse of the Petit Charmoz and Italia Finger
All of the routes listed above have some mountaineering elements and some rock climbing elements, so there is a good all round test of your skills. At the end of the day you travel back to Chamonix for the evening.
EVENING INSTRUCTION: In the evening you will meet with one of the Reps and your Guide in order to finalise plans for the rest of the week. This is essential so that you maximise your climbing time. After you have agreed on a plan, you are free to prepare your equipment for the rest of the week, though if you wish, you can then join in with the evening instruction session. After the instruction session, you are free to go out to eat with the others, or to cook in and get an early night.
Tue
to
Fri
KEY ASCENT DAYS: This section of the course is tailored to your main objective for the week, in terms of the conditions and your development. Many opt to spend a few days above the Couvercle, Envers, or Charpoua Refuge, so you can attempt some of the classic routes such as the Marchand de Sable, traverse of the Dru, an ascent of Pic de Roc, or the traverse of the Moine to the Eveque. From the Leschaux hut you can climb on the Periades or climb the Petite Jorasses. As you can see from the ideas above, each course is tailored to you. To help you make some plans before you come out on a course, we have listed three very different Summer Extreme courses which have been operated recently. This shows the range of ideas you could realise:
COURSE 1; Tue: day route on the Aiguilles du Chamonix, such as the NNE ridge of the Aiguille de l'M, Wed: ascend the base of Frontier (Kuffner) Ridge, and stay in bivvy hut for a night, Thu: ascent of the Kuffner Ridge to summit of Mt Maudit, & traverse over Mont Blanc, Fri: ascent to the Aiguilles Rouges for climb of the Pouce by one of the main routes.
COURSE 2; Tue: a day route to ascend one of the classic technical routes in the Aiguilles du Chamonix, Wed: ascend to the Lechaux hut and ascend a rock route on the cliffs behind the hut, Thu: Alpine start for ascent of the Petit Jorasses, then decent to Chamonix for the night, Fri: ascent to the Aiguilles Rouges for an ascent of the classic route called Asia.
COURSE 3; Tue: from Courmayeur cable car to Helbronner, and ascent of Dent du Geant in one day, Wed: from Aiguille du Midi for ascent of Cherie couloir and descent to Chamonix for night, Thu: day route on the Aiguilles du Chamonix, followed by a night in the Plan d'Aiguille hut, Fri: ascend the Frendo Spur in one day to the Aiguille du Midi. Descend to Chamonix for night.
Guiding ratio 1:1 (max). Nights spent in Chamonix or in mountain huts.
Sat Breakfast, then course debrief, with feedback and questions and answers session. Depart for home.
ITINERARY NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain adventures are weather and conditions dependant, so occasionaly we are forced to alter the plans. If this is the case, suitable alternatives are offered. Please use this outline itinerary as a guide to the types of route / activity that you will attempt.

Course Notes
To date we haven't run two identical Summer 1:1 Advanced courses, so the exact plans are very much down to your preferences, the conditions, weather, and your performance. We are more than happy to be as flexible as possible to accommodate your plans, so for example if you would like extra nights in huts, this is fine as long as you budget for paying for the extra nights (above the one included) for both you and your Guide. If you approach us either before or during the course with ideas of routes that are objectively more serious, or physically much harder, than the style of routes listed here, you will need to be quoted for each specific route as appropriate.


Course Photo Gallery

PHOTOS: The Frendo Spur, on top of the South Face of Aiguille du Midi, and Mini Couloir
Course Prices
Standard course
5 days guiding, 7 days holiday in total £1699
Premium course
7 days guiding, 8 days holiday in total
(Standard course plus Acclimatisation weekend)
LINK
£1798
Secure online booking system
Standard Course Inclusions: 1) IFMGA Mountain Guide for five days, 2) Chamonix course hosts for logistics & briefings, 3) B&B accommodation in Chamonix (inc. beddings & towels), 4) Pre course information booklet, 5) Equipment discount voucher for UK shops, 6) Free 36 page technical Course Instruction Booklet, 7) Road transport in Chamonix valley, 8) Evening technical instruction on nights in Chamonix.
Exclusions: 1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Equipment hire, 3) Personal laundry, telephone calls, lunches, evening meals in valley, & any purchases in mountain huts / hotels / restaurants, 4) Cable cars and uplift for you and your guide (cable cars for guide included in Chamonix), 5) Half board stays in mountain huts as required for you and your guide, 6) Transport / tunnel ticket outside the Chamonix valley, 7) Activities insurance, & excess baggage charges.
Upgrade options
Acclimatisation Weekend
£99 (throughout the season)
To get the most out your course, acclimatisation is essential so that you minimise the chances of AMS (altitude sickness) later on during your course, details.
Half Board Upgrade
£99 (throughout the season)
For every night that you are in town, you eat in a different restaurant in the centre of Chamonix. Always three courses, to power you for the next day.
Private Room Upgrade
£120
(7-27 June & 6-26 Sept)
£150 (28 June - 5 Sept)
The course accommodation is usually in rooms of two sharing. Two people booking / sending forms together are guaranteed a room of two sharing. This upgrade guarantees you a private room on your own for your course.