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Mera
Peak 6476m Expedition
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PHOTO:
Icicle IFMGA mountain guide Sev doing his best Darth Vader
impression at altitude.
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FEEDBACK:
"A great climb, and also a brilliant trek to reach
the peak" Emma D, Padstow, 2006
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| Expedition
Overview |
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If
you have always dreamed of climbing in the Himalayas,
this expedition gives you the opportunity to trek at altitude
with spectacular views. The only requirement for this
expedition is that you have good stamina and fitness,
as all necessary climbing techniques can be taught during
the expedition. |
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Mera
Peak is famous in the region as a trekking non technical
ascent, yet because of its altitude and expedition ascent
style, it will provide a challenge for experienced Alpine
climbers. The length of the expedition ensures that your
acclimatisation is developed slowly so that you can enjoy
the trek and the ascents. |
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The
expedition is led by local sherpas for leading on climbs,
and an Icicle leader for logistics. The price includes
internal flights to Lukla from Katmandu, land transfers,
all climbing permits for the region, accommodation in
tents, and the services of a camp cook and assistants. |
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Availability:
23 October - 13 November 2011. Extra dates can be run
on any date pre or post monsoon for groups of 4 or more,
for the same price. For availability on our other courses
and trips, please click
here. |
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Currently FCO Advice: We
always ahere to the travel advisory from the UK Foreign
& Commonwealth Office Advisory, for all our expeditions.
Click on the logo to the right for further information
on the region. We support the FCO "Know Before
You Go" campaign (click
for details). These measures are to protect
you, as if we were to offer a trip to this region during
times of an advisory against travel, it is highly likely
that your insurance would be invalid in case of any
issues, and the costs incurred could be huge.
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Expedition
groups and experience
Our
formula is to restrict the group sizes, so that there are a
maximum of 12 clients. The small group sizes enable us to run
specialist ascents, where the group can bond well, and each
expedition member has great access to all the Icicle staff,
and local guides and porters. This is more intimate than the
mass group commercial style expeditions run by some operators,
where the individuals needs and speeds cannot be catered for.
Although
you require no previous mountaineering experience for this expedition,
you are advised to be a competant trekker who is familiar with
up to six hour days with 1300m height gains. As you will note
from the itinerary, this expedition is quite intensive in order
to ensure your acclimatisation. Upon booking you will be sent
an expedition dossier & training training schedules. |
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Who
is the expedition aimed at?
The
ascent of Mera Peak takes you to the summit of the highest trekking
peak in Nepal. As the ascent is largely non technical, the expedition
will appeal to those with basic mountaineering experience, who
want to reach a summit in the Himalayas. The photo above shows
the summit view across the Khumbu, and the horizon is dominated
by the bulk of the Everest group, which includes Lhotse, Nuptse,
Pumori, and Mount Everest itself. This
is a rewarding experience as it provides glorious views of Nepal
and a vista that takes in Kangchenjunga and Makalu to the east
and Everest appearing over the massive southern aspect of Nuptse
and Lhotse to the north. On the western horizon you can see
the Himalayan scale versions of the Matterhorn, in the shapes
of Kang Taiga and Ama Dablam, and further away still is the
8000m peak of Cho Oyu. This
expedition is an ideal next step for those who have climbed
Kilimanjaro, Mont Blanc or Elbrus, and who wish to develop their
skills and altitude records further. We developed the itinerary
of this expedition, to minimise the amount of time that you
need to take off work, whilst maximising your experience of
Nepal and taking in several famous cols and the summit of Mera. |
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Expedition
summary
After flying
to Katmandu in Nepal, you fly onwards to the imfamous landing
strip of Lukla. Then the approach trek to the peak takes you
through the lush Himalayan forests and foothills, before you
climb over the famous Mera La col. Base camp is soon reached,
and several days are allowed for the ascent, before descending
the more direct route back to Lukla over the Zatrwa La pass
/ col. From Lukla you fly back to Katmandu, and from there
back home.
Your
acclimatisation
This is a key
concern of anyone visiting the Himalayas or any high altitude
peak for the first time, and we have done everything possible
to make the ascent as comfortable as possible for you. Firstly
our approach trek takes a longer route than the standard (and
rapid) ascent to base camp over Zatrwa La pass / col from
Lukla, that is offered by the vast majority of operators.
Our longer trek both gives you access to a better wilderness
experience in terms of the local farming communities and landscape,
and this trek
route provides far better acclimatisation due to the successive
passes that are crossed, and the greater length of time allowed
to improve fitness and acclimatisation.
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Fitness
and experience
Although
the mountain is classified as a trekking peak, for our Mera
Peak Expedition, you should have a high aerobic level of fitness.
We suggest that you equate this with being able to run a half
marathon, preferably a bit more! The time does not matter, rather
your aerobic stamina and endurance. As well as this level of
fitness, all clients should have previous ice axe and crampon
experience, to a similar level as someone who had completed
one of our Alpine
Intro 'Summits & Skills'
courses. During the expedition, you will receive further instruction
at the snout of the Mera glacier. Once everyone is up to speed
in their ice skills, it is normal for groups to be able to attempt
the summit, and to return to base camp in one long day. This
makes the ascent Alpine style, as successive camps are not required.
If the snow / ice conditions do not allow for this one day summit
bid, we can establish an intermediary camp at 5800m on the Mera
glacier. Obviously this makes the summit day much shorter, and
so raises the summiting chances of everyone. |
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| Previous
Skills
- A
good level of competence (stability) on crampons is a
bonus, and previous skills level to those provided by
an Introductory Alpine or Winter Skills course.
Level of Fitness
- Good
to High aerobic
fitness level. Upon
booking you will be sent an expedition dossier & training
training schedules. It can be viewed (and printed) by
clicking on the link to the right. |
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| Icicle
Mera Peak Expedition Itinerary |
| 1 |
Fly
to Kathmandu Airport. The flight is normally overnight,
sometimes via Dubai or one of the Gulf states. Depending
on your ticket, you will spend the night in a hotel or
on the plane. |
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The
flight arrives in Kathmandu, and you are met by the local
team. Transfer to hotel. Time for shopping and sighseeing
around the town. Expedition briefing and kit checks. Night
spent in the Kathmandu hotel. |
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Flight
to mountain runway of Lukla. Meet the main team of local
sherpas, cooks and porters. Start the main trek to reach
the village of Poyan at 2800m for the night. Night spent
in tents. |
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Trek
over the Poyan Khola pass far above Khare Khola, to reach
Pangkongma at 2846m. This region has been affected by
deforestation, so yak dung is used for fires!
Night spent in tents. |
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The
route ascends to Pangkongma La pass, which gives you the
first good views of Mera Peak. Descend into the Hinku
valley, cross river on wire bridge, ascend to Nashing
Dingma. Night
spent in tents. |
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Ascend
to reach Chalen Kharka at 3600m via the Surke La pass.
Even
at this height, there is still vegetation surrounded
by rhododendrons and fir trees. Night
spent in tents.
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Climb
beyond 4000m for the first time today, over rough ground.
You will see Jannu and Kanchenjunga. Pass Panch Pokari
to reach the camp site for the night at Chunbu Kharka.
Night
spent in tents. |
| 8 |
Today
is a rest day, staying at the Chunbu Kharka camp. For
those with energy, there are lots of local walks and easy
scrambles to keep you busy. Night
spent in tents. |
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Descend
into the Hinku valley again, passing the site of the 1998
natural floods where a natural dam gave way, and the valley
was scoured beyond recognition. Night
spent in tents. |
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Cross
the river and ascend the slops towards the days objective
of Tangnag. You pass through the summer grazing pastures
for yaks. The town has several great tea houses. Night
spent in tents. |
| 11 |
Today
you emerge above the tree line for the rest of the expedition,
and ascend towards Dig Kharka at 4650m, close to the Hinku
Nup glacier, next to which you camp. Night
spent in tents. |
| 12 |
During
the day, you trek onto the glacier for an ice school,
to learn the use of crampons and axes, as these will be
essential to reach Mera La and for the ascent of Mera
Peak .
Night
spent in tents. |
| 13 |
The
trek ascends to Mera Peak base camp today, over the Mera
Ma pass at 5400m. You descend just over the far side to
reach the camp site for the night. Night
spent in tents. |
| 14 |
Another
ice school on ther Mera glacier, to perfect your ice skills,
and to confirm your acclimatisation for the next day.
In
the afternoon you should get some rest for the next days.
Night spent in tents. |
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There
is a choice of a long day for a summit bid, or to move
up to a high camp on the glacier at 5800m. You will cross
several crevasses to reach the high camp. Night
spent in tents. |
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Summit
day for Mera Peak. Set off early across the North Face
glacier to reach the summit ridge and snow wall. We fix
ropes on this section to reach the summit. Descend to
Mera La. Night
spent in tents. |
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Today
is a spare day to allow for any bad weather or an additional
summit bid. If
the day is not nneded, you start the trek back down towards
Lukla. Night spent in tents. |
| 18 |
To
walk back to Lukla by the most direct route can easily
be done in four days (i.e. using Day 17) if required,
but can quite feasibly be done in three. From base camp
the route leads over the Zatrwa La pass at 4,600m, before
it looses altitude quickly on steep paths into the Dudh
Kosi valley, and on to reach Lukla. This route is new
territory for you, so you have yet more reason to photograph
all the peaks surrounding Mera itself. Once you are back
in Lukla you can really relax, and visit all the bars
and tea shops in the town. |
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| 21 |
Fly
from Lukla back to Kathmandu. From the airport you are
transfered back to the hotel. Enjoy your final afternoon
in Kathmandu, and for a final celebratory meal. Night
spent in Kathmandu hotel. |
| 22 |
Breakfast
in the hotel, then time for shopping for souvenirs before
the return airport transfer to Kathmandu airport, then
the return international flight back home. |
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| ITINERARY
NOTES: Where possible we follow the itineraries, but as
mountaineering is always weather and conditions dependant,
we are sometimes forced to alter the plans. If this is
the case, a suitable different route will be attempted,
and you will be informed at the first suitable opportunity.
Please use this outline course itinerary as a guide to
the style of expedition, with good conditions, as it will
not necessarily be an exact blueprint for the exact routes
and schedule that you will follow on the expedition. |
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| Course
Prices |
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Mera
Peak Expedition
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22
days in total |
£1699 |
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+
2 days Kathmandu
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24
days in total
(2 nights hotel in Kathmandu for sightseeing)
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£1899 |
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Secure
online booking system |
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Course Inclusions: 1) Local guides for daily leading,
2) Icicle leaders if group has six or more clients, 3) Pre expedition
Info Booklet, 4) Equipment discount voucher for in UK, 5) All
hotel and hut accommodation in area on a full board basis, 6)
Road transport in region and airport transfers, 7) All costs
for expedition leaders, local guides and porters, 8) We provide
all communal equipment (you provide your own clothing, mountaineering
boots, and climbing equipment), 9) Peak permits for Mera Peak. |
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| Exclusions:
1) Travel to & from Kathmandu airport, 2) Travel insurance,
3) Bar / restaurant bills & tips, 4) Evening meals on the
first and last night in area (budget on £10 per night),
5) UK and foreign airport taxes, optional trips, souvenirs and
tips, 6) Your personal laundry, telephone calls, and any purchases
in mountain huts / hotels / restaurants, 7) Extras before course:
personal activities insurance, & excess baggage charges. |
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| Notes:
This trip requires a minimum number of 4 people. If there are
less than minimum numbers, the course can go ahead if you request
it, but the price will rise. In this situation, should you choose
not to continue your booking, you can opt for a full refund
or a transfer onto another course or date. |
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Group
leaders can go for FREE
If nine people book together,
the group organiser (tenth person) goes for FREE. This
offer applies to either private or scheduled Mera Peak
expeditions. Sounds too good to be true? Well it is as
simple as it sounds, and there is no catch. You get the
£1499 Mera Peak Expedition completely for free.
We only ask that all the booking forms are sent together,
and you can take advantage of this amazing offer.. |
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Icicle
expedition kit bag for FREE
All those booking on this
course are entitled to a free Icicle expedition kit bag.
This tough c.75 litre capacity kit bag is designed for
full expedition usage and is made out of durable and waterproof
rip-proof material. It normally retails at £50.
Postage within the UK is included in the prices. If you
live overseas, it's not a problem at all. We'll let you
know the price for postage. Want a second bag? Order another,
click
here. |
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