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Mont Blanc Autonomy 2012
Course overview Course dates & availability
For those with a little previous climbing experience, the Mont Blanc Intermediate course is the Alpine Autonomy Course with the Mont Blanc Summits course on the end to give a good chance of summitting Mont Blanc.
Over two weeks you attempt famous Alpine routes, such as the remote Domes du Miages, and train and acclimatise for your ascent of Mont Blanc. There are up to three nights in huts to acclimatise.
On the second week of this course, we are as flexible as possible with the itinerary so that, if you feel ready, fit and acclimatised, you can make your summit attempt on the first weather window.
The technical content will be tailored to build on your current experience, with an emphasis on glacier travel and crevasse rescue on both dry and wet glaciers. The course also covers a whole host of ropework and Alpine safety issues such as avalanche awareness, belays and anchors, crampon and ice axe techniques.
This course is set at just above the level of the Introduction course (summer or winter), so if you have a bit too much experience (such as previous rock climbing experience) this course is for you. The vast majority of the routes ascended are of the Alpine PD grade (roughly equivalent to Scottish Grade II/III).
The second week is focused on you preparing and summitting Mont Blanc, with other summits and nights spent at altitude to increase acclimatisation. There is a dedicated information page for Mont Blanc: summit focus.
On the second week of this course, we are deliberately as flexible as possible with the itinerary so that, if you feel ready, fit and acclimatised, you can make your summit attempt on the first available weather window during this second week.
Dates: these are listed in the column on the right, and they show the live availability from our secure online booking system. When you book online, you receive immediate confirmation, your Alpine Information Booklet, course specific kit list and invoice.
Course pre-requisites for 2012 are upgraded: For this season we have increased the technical instruction element of this course, and explanded the range of routes that could be climbed during the week. As a result, we have upgraded the pre-requisite skills and experience requirements for anyone booking on this to have;

Crampons - have used crampons, even for winter skills / walking


Rock - if no outdoor rock experience, to be a capable scrambler

Ropework - be able to tie on to a rope, and to belay safety

Fitness - to be able to run a half marathon in a sub 1hr 45 time
Course Dates
Mont Blanc Autonomy
  • [5+] 3 - 16 Jun 2012
  • [ 3 ] 17 - 30 Jun 2012
  • [ 2 ] 1 - 14 Jul 2012
  • [ 4 ] 22 Jul - 4 Aug 2012
  • [ 0 ] 5 - 18 Aug 2012
  • [5+] 19 Aug - 1 Sep 2012
  • [5+] 2 - 15 Sep 2012
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Price: £2099 Book online now
Alternative courses
Alpine Autonomy course
Mont Blanc Achievements
Mont Blanc Summit
Client feedback
Good organisation. Plenty of information and skills learnt from Guides and instructors. Felt very confident of suggestions and recommendations of routes. Very useful course for learning autonomy in the Alps. Gained lots of skills useful for climbing in a small unguided team
Ryan D , Mont Blanc Autonomy 2010
Thank you all for your assistance with our group, and many compliments from us all on the structure itinerary
Josephine T , MB Autonomy 2009


Course Photo Gallery


Brief Course Itinerary

Sunday
Travel to Chamonix to arrive for the 17:00 check-in followed by and course safety and itinerary briefings. There is time for kit checks or rental of equipment. Briefings are over by 19:00 and the team accompany the group to pre-dinner drinks. Many clients opt to travel out a day or two early to do a two day acclimatisation weekend course to provide an extra night in a hut, and to ascend a 3000m peak. Night in Chamonix.
Monday
Day to learn and practice using crampons and ice axes on the Mer de Glace glacier (2000m). You also climb vertical ice, create ice anchors, and learn glacier travel skills. This is one of your most important days of the course in terms of skills development as it is essential to have good footwork on Mont Blanc. Guiding ratio 1:6 (max). Evening theory session on the key safety knots and ropework. Night in Chamonix.
Tuesday
Alpine ridge route, such as the Traverse of Aiguille du Crochues, to focus on ropework, moving together, anchors, and the assessment of objective dangers. The route chosen for this day is generally a mixed route that is ascended in mountain boots rather than in rock shoes. Guiding ratio 1:3 (max). Evening session on Alpine weather prediction and the effects of mountains. Night in Chamonix.
Wednesday
Today you really progress your altitude snowskills with an ascent of another peak, such as the Petite Aiguille Verte, and all skills previously learnt will be tested. This style of route will really work on your crampon skills and the selection of snow belays on steeper ground. Guiding ratio 1:3 (max). Evening session on climbers crevasse rescue and emergency hoist systems. Night in Chamonix.
Thursday
The start of a two day route with a night in a mountain hut, or a day route. It's up to you to decide the itinerary for the last two days of this course. Typically groups ascend the Domes du Miages, Aiguille du Tour, Petite Forche, or Mont Blanc du Tacul, and the route chosen is a reflection of your autonomy skills development and of the weather and mountain conditions. Guiding ratio 1:3 (max). Night in mountain hut.
Friday
If you opted for a two day route, then today will be an Alpine start from the mountain hut to ascend one of the peaks mentioned on the previous day, or it could also be another day route if you have opted for that. After the main ascent of the week, you descend back to the Chamonix valley. Guiding ratio 1:3 (max). Evening instruction session, then a celebratory meal, with the final night spent in Chamonix.
Saturday
Breakfast, then week one debrief, with feedback and questions and answers session. Some people opt to book a tandem paraglider flight in the morning to celebrate the weeks efforts, and prices for this are from 90€ for a c.30 minute flight. These flights can be booked in resort up to the day before you wish to fly. You have the rest of the day as free time to ascend cable cars to acclimatise, or to rest and explore town.
Sunday
Day off in Chamonix, to spend as you wish visiting the numerous tourist attractions, or resting and preparing your kit for the second week. Everyone meets for the second week briefing at 17:00 followed by and course safety and itinerary briefings. There is time for kit checks or rental of equipment. Briefings are over by 19:00 and the team accompany the group to pre-dinner drinks. Night in Chamonix.
Monday
Day for further practice using crampons and ice axes on the Mer de Glace glacier (2000m). You also climb vertical ice, create ice anchors, and learn glacier travel skills. This is one of your most important days of the course in terms of skills development as it is essential to have good footwork on Mont Blanc. Guiding ratio 1:6 (max). Evening theory session on the key safety knots and ropework. Night in Chamonix.
Tuesday
Acclimatisation route to a summit. Continue to a mountain hut for the night or return to Chamonix. The aim is to develop your skills at altitude. The choice of the 1 or 2 day routes is made in reaction to which day you attempt Mont Blanc, as we can alter the itinerary to maximise your chances. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Evening session on Alpine weather prediction and the effects of mountains. Night in Chamonix.
Wednesday
Acclimatisation route to a summit. Either an Alpine start from the mountain hut or a second acclimatisation route. Typical routes for the last two days include Cosmiques Arete, Gran Paradiso, Petite Verte, Pointe Lachenal or Aiguille du Tour. Return to Chamonix to prepare for Mont Blanc. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Evening session on climbers crevasse rescue and emergency hoist systems. Night in Chamonix.
Thursday
Equipment and bag checks before you set off to climb up to one of the high huts, either the Cosmiques or the Gouter / Tête Rousse hut for the night. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). The choice of route that you take on Mont Blanc, and which hut(s) you stay in is a function of the weather, conditions, and your skills and fitness. Often different teams suit different plans to maximise their summit chances. Night in hut on Mont Blanc.
Friday
Summit Mont Blanc 4810m from an Alpine start from the high hut, and descend to Chamonix. It is usual to reach the summit just after sunrise, to take advantage of the best snow conditions, and to minimise the risks of stonefall or late afternoon storms. Reach valley afternoon, celebrations in the evening. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Evening instruction session, then a celebratory meal, with the final night spent in Chamonix.
Saturday
Breakfast then the accommodation check out is by 10:00. Most arrange their airport transfers to leave around this time, to catch a flight from Geneva about midday. Depart for home. Some people opt to book a tandem paraglider flight in the morning to celebrate the weeks efforts, and prices for this are from 90€ for a c.30 minute flight. These flights can be booked in resort up to the day before you wish to fly. Depart for home.
ITINERARY NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain adventures are weather and conditions dependant, so occasionaly we are forced to alter the plans. If this is the case, suitable alternatives are offered. Please use this outline itinerary as a guide to the types of route / activity that you will attempt.


Course Photo Gallery

Course Prices
Alpine Autonomy course (£899) followed by Mont Blanc Summits course (£1349), totals £2248, so you save £149!
Standard course
10 days guiding, 14 days holiday in total £2099
Premium course
12 days guiding, 14 days holiday in total
(Standard course plus Acclimatisation weekend)
LINK
£2198
Secure online booking system
Standard Course Inclusions: 1) IFMGA Mountain Guide for ten days, 2) Chamonix course hosts for logistics & briefings, 3) B&B accommodation in Chamonix (inc. beddings & towels), 4) Up to three nights half board in mountain hut (inc. costs for guides), two nights of which are paid for by Icicle, 5) Pre course information booklet, 6) Equipment discount voucher for UK shops, 7) Free 36 page technical Course Instruction Booklet, 8) Road transport in Chamonix valley, 9) Icicle discounts privilege card for reductions in local shops and restaurants in Chamonix. 10) Evening technical instruction, 11) Icicle expedition kit bag for FREE (see below).
Exclusions: 1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Equipment hire, 3) Cable cars & uplift (c. 120 euros depending on itinerary), 4) Optional third night in a mountain hut on a half board basis for you and guide, 5) Personal laundry, telephone calls, lunches, evening meals in valley, & any purchases in mountain huts / hotels / restaurants, 6) Road transport outside Chamonix valley (not usually required), 7) Sunday pre-dinner drinks & Friday celebratory meal & drinks, 8) Activities insurance, & excess baggage charges.
Icicle expedition kit bag for FREE
All those booking on this course are entitled to a free Icicle expedition kit bag. This tough c.75 litre capacity kit bag is designed for full expedition usage and is made out of durable and waterproof rip-proof material. It normally retails at £50. Postage within the UK is included in the prices. If you live overseas, it's not a problem at all. We'll let you know the price for postage. Want a second bag? Order another, click here.
Upgrade options
Acclimatisation Weekend
£99 (throughout the season)
To get the most out your course, acclimatisation is essential so that you minimise the chances of AMS (altitude sickness) later on during your course, details.
Half Board Upgrade
£99 (per week )
For every night that you are in town, you eat in a different restaurant in the centre of Chamonix. Always three courses, to power you for the next day.
Private Room Upgrade (pw)
£150 (subject to availability)
The course accommodation is usually in rooms of two sharing. Two people booking / sending forms together are guaranteed a room of two sharing. This upgrade guarantees you a private room on your own for your course.