|
PERIOD
|
ROUTE |
COMMENTS |
|
DEC
2004
|
End
of month summary
LINK
TO TOP OF PAGE |
The
winter season really started from mid month, and the icefalls
formed rapidly. There was no snow in the valley until
the 16 December. The Midi reopened from seasonal maintenance,
though there is still very restricted skiing.
|
|
27
- 31 Dec '04
|
Véry
Icefalls, Megeve
Planay Icefalls, Megeve
Levure Icefalls, Cogne
Arete des Cosmiques
Trient, Switzerland
Midi Plan traverse
Repentance, Cogne
Deferlante
|
Route
in very good condition for time of year
Icefalls and dry / mixed routes all climbable
The route is now in good climable condition
Good track up route & in very good condition
The routes including Prozac, all now formed
Not too snowy to complete all of the traverse
Whole route now is perfectly formed already
Ice quite brittle, but route in excellent condition
|
|
20
- 26 Dec '04
|
La
Cremerie
Mer de Glace
Mini Couloir
Trient Icefall Gorge
Coyote, Cogne
Vallée Blanche
Cascade Lillaz
Aiguille du Midi
|
Ice
conditions are improving on the left side
Access still possible via the main ladders
Track reaches top of route in deep snow
Gorge sector in thin state at the moment
Still quite delicate, but good ice conditions
Two guides rescued as not enough snow
Bottom section formed, top still very thin
Reopened after seasonal maintenance
|
|
14
- 19 Dec '04
|
General
weather
La Cremerie icefalls
Patrie, Val de Cogne
Gaillands crag |
Warm
in valley until mid month, then snow
Mainly formed, thin in middle, wet on left
Well formed on both the left and the right
Dry and non avalanche prone until 15th
|
|
1
- 14 Dec '04
|
Midi
Cable car
Grands Montets
Climbing Routes |
Closed
for seasonal maintenance for 3 weeks
Cable car closed due to technical problems
Not a lot going on at the moment ....... |
|
NOV
2004
|
End
of month summary
LINK
TO TOP OF PAGE |
There
still hasn't been any valley snow yet, but there was a
fair amount at altitude. The cable cars are mostly shut
for seasonal maintenance. The Autumn has been quite dry,
so the valley icefalls are forming very slowly for this
time of year.
|
|
1
- 30 Nov '04
|
All
Cable Cars
Climbing Routes |
All
closed apart from Midi & Montenvers
Not a lot going on at the moment ....... |
|
OCT
2004
|
End
of month summary
LINK
TO TOP OF PAGE |
There
has been a lot of snow at altitude, and this month saw
very Autumnal weather in the valley. The cable cars are
mostly shut for seasonal maintenance now, and most of
the shops & hotels in Chamonix are closed as it is
out of season.
|
|
1
- 31 Oct '04
|
All
Cable Cars
Climbing Routes |
All
closed apart from Midi & Montenvers
Not a lot going on at the moment ....... |
|
SEP
2004
|
End
of month summary
LINK
TO TOP OF PAGE |
The
weather was generally a lot better than August, and the
first half of the month was very settled. At the end of
the month the first winter snows started falling at altitude,
and the cable cars are mostly shut for seasonal maintenance
now.
|
|
19
- 30 Sept '04
|
Flegere
& Index lifts
Brevent & Planpraz lifts
Chere Couloir, Tacul
Mont Blanc Traverse
Tacul, Normal Route |
Cable
car closed for seasonal maintenance
Cable car closed for seasonal maintenance
Quite dry, but possible due to recent snows
Possible in early week, though very windy
Very good track, but constant high winds
|
|
12
- 19 Sept '04
|
Gran
Paradiso, Ridge
Italian side of Mt Blanc
Aiguillette d'Argentiere
Traverse of Crochues
Mont Blanc Gouter |
Route
in fine condition, and huts quiet now
Better weather than Chamonix, and rock dry
Rock still dry, and not very busy. Good day
Only one other group on the route. All dry
Climbed but in very high winds (c 80km/h)!
|
|
5
- 12 Sept '04
|
Aiguille
de Beranger
Mont Blanc Traverse
Midi Plan Arete
Cosmiques Arete, Midi
Pointe Lachenal
Marchand de Sable
Bienvenue au Georges V
Amazonia
Le Piege & Pedro Polar
|
Glacier
still fine condition, and rock all dry
Excellent, good tracks, Maudit fixed rope
Good track, and not too icy even near Plan
Quite dry for time of year, some loose rock
Chimney on traverse still has some snow in it
Perfect conditions on route, but quite busy
All seepage lines have dried out on the route
New route has been equipped just to the side
Good condition, dry rock, and not too busy
|
|
1
- 5 Sept '04
|
Frisson
Roche, Brevent
Rebuffat on Aig du Midi
Floria, Contrefort Droite
Petite Aiguille Verte
Mont Blanc Traverse
Mont Blanc Gouter
Petit Bargy, Cluses
Index, Normal Route
Crochues Traverse
Grands Montets lift
|
Route
very dry, though busy in good weather
Good condition & dry, but rimaye quite open
The routes have all finally dried out totally
Dry route, and some stonefall, but still safe
Very good condition throughout the route
Good, though stonefall in Gouter couloir high
Routes all in dry condition. Beware of old pitons
Route quite busy as in last weeks of cable car
Route very dry, but glacier very icy for descent
Cable car closed for seasonal maintenance
|
|
AUG
2004
|
End
of month summary
LINK
TO TOP OF PAGE |
The
first half of the month was more settled and dry, but
the last two weeks saw lots of fresh snowfall and the
effects of Foehn winds in the massif. The Midi cable car
was effectively closed all month, though access possible
from Italian cable cars.
|
|
22
- 31 August '04
|
Aiguille
du Midi
Dome du Gouter
Mont Blanc
Aiguille de Bionassay
Machaby, Aoste Valley
Aiguilles d'Entreves
Matterhorn, Hornli
Dent du Geant
Aiguille du Tour
Le Tour Cable Cars
|
Cable
car reopened again at the end of August!
Avalanche and serac fall just to the left of route
Not possible at all due to new snow and wind
Very large avalanche down northern flanks
Routes all dry and popular due to good weather
Good conditions, and snow has improved route
Snow made route in winter conditions, hut closed
Deep snow on the approach, but route possible
Good conditions, some stonefall near summit
Cable car closed for seasonal maintenance
|
|
15
- 22 August '04
|
Kuffner
Arete, Maudit
Mont Blanc Gouter
Aravis Limestone
Argentiere, Fleche Rousse
Mont Blanc, Traverse
Traverse of Crochues
Index Cable Car
Gran Paradiso, Normal
|
Impossible
to ascend due to wind and foehn
Good, though stonefall in Gouter couloir high
All the routes dry and in good conditions
Glacier was very open on the approach to route
Too much snow to even consider the route
A little coating of snow on the route throughout
Closed for majority of week due to high winds
Lots of fresh snow on route, to base of glacier
|
|
8
- 15 August '04
|
Frisson
Roche, Brevent
Dent du Geant
Aiguilles d'Entreves
Petite Aig Verte
Domes du Miages
Montets-Lognan traverse
Mont Blanc, Traverse
G Jorasses, Italian Side
Mont Dolent, Normal
|
Very
good route, and not too busy. Rock is dry
Cold and windy on summit, but good conditions
No rockfall at all on route, so in safe condition
Stonefall risk on both routes, and little snow left
Good conditions throughout, with some ice now
Almost no snow left now. Steep initial descent
Now safe due to new route up Tacul on left side
Very good conditions up to the Pointe Walker
Snow in OK condition, and no rockfall nearby
|
|
1-
8 August '04
|
Aiguille
du Midi
Helbronner Lift
Aig de Bionassay
Monte Rosa region
Kuffner Arete, Maudit
Chapelle du la Gliere
Mont Blanc, Gouter
Drus & Nant Blanc Face
Mont Blanc, Traverse
|
Cable
car broken again, scheduled to open end Aug
This is open, as is Gondola, for access to Aig du Midi
Good condition in traverse from Durier to Gouter
SAFETY - fresh snow, so avalanche risk very high
Snow still in OK condition throughout the route
All route is dry, and now quieter than last month
In very good conditions, due to cold clear nights
Rockfall near Pic Sans Nom, as face is very dry now
Difficult section on Tacul over crevasse & under serac
|
|
JULY
2004
|
End
of month summary
LINK
TO TOP OF PAGE |
Really
mixed weather this year, with an unseasonally large amount
of snow at altitude, which has raised avalanche risks
far higher than normal. Midi cable car now open, which
has given easy access in periods of good weather.
|
|
25
- 31 July '04
|
Aiguille
d'Argentiere
South Ridge of Moine
Gran Paradiso, Normal
Gran Paradiso, N Face
Cherie Couloir
Cosmiques Arete
Traverse of Crochues
Mont Blanc, Gouter
Ciaforon, North Face
|
Y-Couloir
very good, Milieu Glacier difficult to cross
Very good condition, and route is all dry and safe
Route still in OK condition, despite being very hot
Out of condition now, and Chabot glacier very open
Good conditions, though thin sections in middle
Very good condition throughout the route
Quite busy, due to start of key French holidays
Some stonefall now in couloir, so be very careful
Exposed to frequent stonefall due to weeks heat
|
|
18
- 25 July '04
|
Hornli
Arete, Matterhorn
Dent du Geant
Rochefort Arete
Montets Ridge of Verte
Castor & Pollux
Midi Plan Traverse
Monte Rosa Region
Chapelle de la Gliere
Liskaam West Peak
Lion & Hornli, Matterhorn
Mont Blanc Traverse
|
Hornli
Refuge closed due to more snow & avalanche
Approach mixed climb still in very good conditions
Double cornices make traverse very interesting now
Climbed over two days in quite snowy weather
Snow starting to stabalise, especially on Castor
Now the traverse is in much better / safer condition
There is a lot of snow in the West, less in the East
Route very busy, due to bad weather at altitude
Ascent OK. Traverse impossible due to snow amount
Full traverse of the mountain made in early week
First ascents made since avalanche 2 weeks ago
|
|
11-
18 July '04
|
Mont
Blanc Traverse
Machaby, Italy
Hornli Arete, Matterhorn
Petite Aiguille Verte
Aiguille Joseph
Gouter, Mont Blanc
Climbing World Cup
Banff Mountain Films
|
No
ascents made due to persisting avalanche risk
Rock all dry, even though weather bad on Mont Blanc
Ascent made to Solvay, but through very deep snow
Good condition, but getting busy due to high season
Very quiet, but routes all dry and good conditions
Still good condition, but use safety cable in couloir
Finals on Bastille eve, with final competitors winning
Wide range of mountain films, shown for free in Cham
|
|
4
- 11 July '04
|
Gran
Paradiso
Normal Route, Tacul
Castor, Monte Rosa
SAFETY NOTE
Cosmiques Arete, Midi
Midi Plan Traverse
Aiguille du Midi
SAFETY NOTE
|
Good
conditions all the way to the summit
Major wind slab avalanche near shoulder. 2 dead
Deep snow. 5 dead in fall from steep section of route
People aren't respecting the amount of fresh snow
Much busier now Midi is open, but in good condition
Still a lot of unconsolidated snow on route
Finally opened ahead of scheduled 16 July date
Wind slab avalanches are a high risk this week
|
|
1-
4 July '04
|
Mont
Mallet Traverse
Traverse Vallee Blanche
Gervasutti Pillar, Tacul
Dent du Requin
Dalles d'Envers
Aig de Republique
Charmoz Grepon
Normal, Aiguille de l'M
|
Very
good conditions, especially down to Leschaux
Well tracked as Midi closed, and Helbronner open
First ascent made this summer in good weather
Ascent made by the classic traverse route. Dry
Most routes now dry, but relatively quiet climbs
Approach difficult due to complicated rimaye crossing
Couloir approach still very snowy, but route great
Plenty of snow up to the col, then the rock is dry
|
|
JUNE
2004
|
End
of month summary
LINK TO TOP OF PAGE |
Weather
was very stable in the middle of the month, but unstable
either side. Windspeeds at altitude have been high, but
a lot of routes have really been in the prime of their
summer condition this month, especially snow routes.
|
|
25
- 30 June '04
|
Traverse
of Mont Blanc
Petite Bargy, Cluses
Kuffner Ridge, Maudit
Aiguilles d'Entreves
La Floria, Aig Rouges
North Face, Tour Ronde
Chevalier, P Aig Verte
|
Cold
temperatures and quite windy, but good snow
Rock still snowy at base, but dry higher up route
Still in condition, but snow soft due to the warmth
Traverse route OK condition, now snow has receeded
New routes have been fully bolted on this mountain
Rimaye collapsed, making access to face harder
Route already dry / very mixed, for the rest of season
|
|
19
- 25 June '04
|
Traverse
of Crochues
North Face, Tour Ronde
Gervasutti, T.Ronde
Moine Arete, Aig Verte
Normal, Gran Paradiso
Pointe Isabella
NNE Arete, Aig de l'M
Demilune, P Aig Verte
|
Popular
route due to good weather at end of week
Good conditions, mid mixed section quite easy now
Good and stable condition now, though warm days
Mixed regions very snowy, but easy to climb across
Glacier still in very good condition, unlike last year!
Easy route has now been found through the rimaye
Route climbed by gaining access from Montenvers
No problems on route, even with recent snowfalls
|
|
12
- 19 June '04
|
Mont
Blanc, Gouter
Nid d'Aigle
Dent du Geant
Barberine
Aiguille de Bionassay
Moulin, Mer de Glace
Clochetons du Planpraz |
Snowy
in couloir, no rock fall, perfect conditions
Station finally cleared of snow and reopened on Fri
Renewed sections of rope make the ascent safer
Rock now dried out and Vipers route quite busy
Good conditions throughout the ridge, snowy mixed
Canyon shape this year, & great for ice climbing
Dry rock, and quiet as it is still pre holiday season
|
|
5
- 12 June '04
|
Shroud,
Grand Jorasses
Rochefort Arete
Whymper, Aiguille Verte
S Arete of the Moine
Pyramide du Tacul
Kuffner Ridge, Maudit
Les Courtes, Traverse
Pointe Isabella
|
Steep
and thin entry chimneys, then icy throughout
No recent tracks, and a lot of spring snow on route
Slightly icy in the middle, but still in OK condition
One chimney very icy, but otherwise quite dry
Small rockfall on right of route, but didn't affect climb
Completely on snow, and in very safe condtions
Quite snowy, but route is in great condition this year
Rimaye very difficult for clients trying this grade route
|
|
1-
5 June '04
|
Mont
Blanc, traverse
Mont Maudit, N. Face
Whymper Couloir, Verte
Gervasutti, T.Ronde
Mont Blanc, G Mulets
North Face of T. Ronde
Couloir de Table, Tour
Tacul, Voie Normale
Brevent rock climbing
|
Deep
snow, but ascent made with no problems
Great conditions, 20m abseil to descend rimaye
Perfect and icy, quick ascent, rimaye quite big
Avalanche down couloir, so still very snowy
Good conditions for ski decents of north face
Very good condition and icy throughout route
Lots of snow. Snowshoes not needed for approach
Much more direct route up face than last summer
Wear big boots as there is still lots of snow here
|
|
MAY
2004
|
End
of month summary
LINK
TO TOP OF PAGE |
Lots
of snow up high at the start of month, then intermittent
good weather from mid May onwards as summer approaches.
The Midi cable car broke its main lower cable, but no
one was injured. This is forecast to reopen at the end
of June.
|
|
9
- 31 May '04
|
Aiguille
du Midi cable car
All other cable cars
Climbing / Skiing |
Cable
Car broke main cable during maintenance
Scheduled seasonal closure period
No reports as all cable cars closed until mid June
|
|
1
- 9 May '04
|
Aiguille
du Midi cable car |
Closed
for seasonal maintenance |
|
APR
2004
|
End
of month summary
LINK
TO TOP OF PAGE |
Still
no new snow at the start of the month meant a very early
ski ascent of Mont Blanc was made, but just before all
the ski lifts shut until summer, there was lots of snow
at all levels. The snow falls continued until the end
of the month.
|
|
25
- 30 Apr '04
|
Lifts
Closing |
La
Tour, Brevent, & Flegere lifts closed until mid June |
|
18
- 25 Apr '04
|
Spring
Snow up high |
No
climbs or off piste / ski touring reported |
|
11
- 18 Apr '04
|
Bad
weather all week |
No
climbs or off piste / ski touring reported |
|
4
- 11 Apr '04
|
North
Face, Mont Blanc |
Descent
on skis possible, very early this year |
|
1
- 4 Apr '04
|
Mont
Blanc, G Mulets
Arete de Papillons
Argentiere Icefalls |
First
winter ski ascent this year, by 12 people
No snow on route, but rock was still very cold
Major section of Grand Bleu collapsed this week
|
|
MAR
2004
|
End
of month summary
LINK
TO TOP OF PAGE |
The
ice climbing season ended at the end of the month, but
not a lot of new snow meant that black ice reappeared
on some of the altitude mountaineering routes. Ski touring
season now in full swing, and conditions are good &
stable.
|
|
21
- 31 Mar 2004
|
Haute
Route Ski Tour
SAFETY NOTE
Cremerie Icefalls
Table de Roc ridge
Traverse or Chardonnet |
Conditions
good near Zermatt, Chamonix quite icy
Most ice climbs out of condition & unsafe now
Most fractured, especially on right, and unstable
Little snow on route, so ascent was quite quick
Route out of condition, black ice on the Bosses
|
|
14
- 21 Mar 2004
|
3
windows ski tour
Couloir de Table
Index, Aig Rouges
Gaillands
On Piste Skiing
Gervasutti Pillar, Tacul
Trient Icefalls |
Chardonnet
quite steep, but all OK condition
Very snowy, but ski descent possible
Very little snow on route, as always in the sun
No snow in the valley, so rock climbers out now
Pistes below 2000m have no snow on them at all
Rock warmer and dry, so 3 parties on the route
Good conditions found in the gorge section
|
|
7
- 14 Mar 2004
|
Repentance,
WI 6
Cascade Lillaz
Cold Couloir, Cogne
Gran Paradiso on skis
Thierry Rebufat route |
Good
condition, but early start needed (5am)
Has come back into safe, but thin condition
Great conditions all the way up the gully to top
Via the Chabot glacier, though it was quite open
In very good condition, and easy access on skis
|
|
1
- 7 Mar '04
|
Cremerie
Icefalls
Cosmique Arete
South Face of Midi
Frendo Spur
Traverse of Chardonnet
Charmoz-Grepon |
Ice
a but rotten now and not in good state
Very snowy, but tracked to base of the route
Rock routes busy and the rock is now dry
Not possible above the rock pillar due to black ice
Black ice before the Bosses, so not possible
Winter traverse possible due to lack of snow
|
|
FEB
2004
|
End
of month summary
LINK
TO TOP OF PAGE |
This
month was the best so far this winter for ice climbing
with lots in condition, though the valley / low icefalls
eg Chatelard never formed safely this year. Winter mountain
routes all in good condition, and off piste skiing is
good.
|
|
22
- 29 Feb '04
|
Argentiere
Icefalls
Patrie, Cogne
N Face of Petite Verte
Y Route, Aig Argentiere |
Right
bank icefalls, eg Shiva, are all fractured now
Approach pitches are brittle, upper is still good
Nice route, with ice in quite good condition
Quite thin, but good condition of snow and ice
|
|
15
- 22 Feb '04
|
EMHM
Icefall
Cervina Off Piste
VB right bank
Gressoney icefalls
Matterhorn
Patey Brown, Verte
Whymper Couloir, Verte
Shiva Lingam, WI 6
|
Good
condition, as was Micro Goulotte route
All in good condition, with low avalanche risk
Black Bowl route perfect, with no tracks
All routes in condition, right down to the valley
Winter ascent possible by the Hornli Arete
Winter ascent made, ice in bad condition
In good condition, descended in 45 minutes!
A solo ascent was made, and abseil down route
|
|
8
- 15 Feb '04
|
Cremerie
Icefalls
Nuit Blanche, WI 6
Deferlante
Tour Ronde, Gervasutti
EMHM Icefall, WI 4
Vallee Blanche
Fil a Plomb, Midi |
All
sections are in good state, including main wall
Top section quite thin, but OK on toprope
Very good condition, as was Mini Couloir
Good route now in condition. Ski descent possible
Very good, but very popular this week
Now in a very good and safe condition, all routes
Approach hard in snow, but route in great form
|
|
1
- 8 Feb '04
|
Aiguillete
des Houches
Col du Tour Noir
Tubourg WI 5, Cogne
Petite Verte
La Tour
Petit Viking
Mallory Route, Midi |
Ski
Tour route on good snow right down to village
Ski Mountaineering on deep snow to the col
Good ice, has formed steep this season
OK condition, though quite icy on the ridge
Off piste skiing great off back of La Tour
Great conditions throughout the route
Route not possible due to the lack of snow on it
|
|
JAN
2004
|
End
of month summary
LINK
TO TOP OF PAGE |
Ice
conditions were quite mixed, but good ice could easily
be found. Quite a lot of black ice on altitude routes,
which is still the after effects of last summer. Latest
opening of Vallee Blanche in recent memory, as snow took
a while to build up.
|
|
25
- 31 Jan ' 04
|
Nuit
Blanche, WI 6
Candelabro Coyotte
Tutto Relativo, Cogne
Gressoney
Gressoney Icefalls
Cosmiques Arete
Vallee Blanche Ridge
|
Good
condition especially two top pitches
Good ice, but quite hard this year
Has now formed better as is in safe condition
Ski Mountaineering in great conditions now
All in good condition, especially Grade 5 & above
Quite snowy and very cold, but still possible
Finally there is enough snow, & ridge is equiped
|
|
18
- 25 Jan '04
|
Trient
Icefalls
La Tour
Cascade Lillaz, Cogne
Tutto Relativo, Cogne
Patrie Icefalls, Cogne
Lillaz Gully, Cogne
Chamonix - General
|
Brittle
ice, and not well formed. Snowy approach
Very big avalanche off back of La Tour to Trient
Good condition, first pitch possible to lead now
Very thin near base, but possible to climb
Very good conditions on left and right
Good conditions throughout the climb
Heavy snow all week, so no good climbing
|
|
11
- 18 Jan '04
|
Cascade
Lillaz, Cogne
Cold Couloir, Cogne
Mini Couloir, Argentiere
North Face, Tour Ronde
Modica Noury
Supercouloir, Tacul
Jager Couloir, Tacul
Goulotte Cosmiques
|
Big
pool at bottom of the first pitch, avoid to left
Swept by avalanches about twice a day
Very thin on top pitch - dry tooling. Good day
Black ice makes the route impossible
Bergschrund difficult, but route in good condition
Very thin, but possible to the top of the route
Good condition throughout. Ice plastic & good
Very dry, so aid rather than ice on steep pitches
|
|
4
- 11 Jan '04
|
Grand
Bleu & Twins
Cosmiques Arete
EMHM Cascade
Patrie, Val de Cogne
Mer de Glace
Shiva Lingam, WI 6
Deferlante
Cherie Couloir
|
Very
good condition, though approach hard
Good track up to the Abri Simond hut
Now in good condition, with plastic type ice
Good condition, though early start to avoid crowds
Ice climb in Moulin - dry as no water flowing
First ascent of the season this week
Fully formed and in good condition, and wide
The whole route is covered in thin black ice
|
|
1
- 4 Jan '04
|
EMHM
Cascade, WI 4
Cremerie, Argentiere
Mer de Glace
Reposoir Icefalls
Aiguilles Rouges
Index Arete |
Good
condition, though a bit brittle on the steps
Covered in a thick layer of snow, but good ice
Starting to get a good cover for Vallee Blanche
Excellent condition mid week, melting by Friday
Good ski mountaineering conditions on back
Ascent by the normal route in winter conditions
|
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