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| Knots
for tying onto a climbing rope |
|
 | Single
Figure of 8 knot
The figure of 8 knot is the first step of the
most popular way of tying onto a climbing rope. As you can see from the diagram
on the left, the knot does form an 8 shape when tied correctly. In order to tie
the rope onto your harness, you need to tie this knot roughly one metre from the
end of the rope.
|
 | Doubled
Figure of 8 knot
Once you have followed the instructions in the
section above, you pass the end of the rope through the leg and waist loops of
your harness until the single figure of 8 is close to the harness, and then retrace
the knot with the end of the rope until it emerges out of the end by the main
length of rope.
|
 | Bowline
knot
This is an alternative knot for tying onto a rope with, though
generally it is not advised for beginners as the knot works loose quite quickly,
and can turn into a slip knot unless backed up with a stopper knot (see section
below). The bowline is useful in that it can be untied even after heavy loading.
|
 | Stopper
knot
If you use a bowline, the stopper knot prohibits the bowline
reversing. If you are tied on with a doubled figure of 8, the stopper knot is
not necessary unless you have misjudged the length needed for tying on. The stopper
knot is also called a fishermans knot and two are used for making prussic loops.
|
|
| Hitches
for controlling a climbing rope |
|
 | Italian
Hitch
The italian hitch is used for belaying, and in case you
loose your abseil device it can also be used for descending ropes. The only aspects
to be aware of are that this hitch kinks the rope and the karabiner it is clipped
onto can get warm if the hitch is used for abseiling, and this could harm the
rope.
|
 | Clove
Hitch
This is used for locking the rope off on a karabiner, and
classically is used at all the belay anchor points, such as ice screws or rock
protection, that a karabiner has been clipped into. Even when the hitch has been
put on the karabiner, it can be adjusted without needing to open the karabiner
again.
|
|
| Prussic
knots for locking onto a climbing rope |
|
 | Kleimheist
Prussic
The kleimheist is often the most
effective prussic for locking on a rope, and is frequently used for a safety back
up on an abseil. The only disadvantages to this knot are that it can lock too
well, and be hard to undo, and also all the load weight is on one piece of 7mm
prussic cord in a fall situation.
|
 | French
Autoblock Prussic
This prussic looks similar to the kleimheist,
apart from both end loops are clipped into the karabiner, so in event of a fall,
the weight is distributed better on the prussic. This knot is very useful in a
crevasse rescue hoist pulley system as it can be easily loosened, and can lock
off automatically.
|
 | Tress
Prussic
The tress is the best prussic to use on wet or iced up
ropes, a it squeezes the rope to create friction when under load, rather than
constricting on itself like a normal prussic. This enables it to open more when
not loaded, so it can easily be slid over lumps of ice that have formed on the
rope.
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|
| Crevasse
ropework and hoist systems |
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