| |
|
Grandes
Jorasses, Walker Spur
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
PHOTO:
Sunset on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. Photo: Benoit,
Icicle Guide
|
|
|
|
FEEDBACK:
"To be the only company to offer this
route is one thing, but to
deliver it is quite another! Many many thanks"
Connor F, Dublin, 2003
|
|
|
| Course
Overview |
 |
There
are six classic north faces in the Alps; the Dru, Matterhorn,
Eiger, Piz Badille, Tre Cima de Laverado, and the Grandes
Jorasses. The finest climb of the six is the Grandes Jorasses
due to the quality of the rock, the stature of the mountain,
the location, and the amazing line that the classic route
up the North Face (the Walker Spur) takes. The route leads
directly up the huge left hand buttress of the North Face,
to reach the highest point on the mountain, Pointe Walker.
The main attraction of this route is that the conditions
vary so much even in the same season. |
|
The
summer of 2003 saw ascents at the start of the season
in plastics and crampons, and in the middle of the heatwave
ascents were made wearing just rock shoes all the way
from the Bergschrund to the summit, taking just one day
to complete the whole route. The course is designed to
enable a strong Alpinist to develop their climbing relationship
with their Guide over a week, in order to enable them
to attempt the route in style, making a quick and efficent
ascent to the summit. The descent route is over onto the
Italian side, and back through the road tunnel to Chamonix. |
|
The
kind of climber which this course should appeal to, will
probably have already ascended some serious Alpine routes
on their own without a Guide, such as the traverse of
the Lion (Italian) Ridge of the Matterhorn, the normal
route on the Dru, or the Aiguille Verte. For
this level course we expect you to be very competant on
Alpine D+ / TD grade routes, Scottish Grade IV Ice, and
at least UK rock at E2 traditional outdoors. The
Walker Spur is a huge route, and you must prepare suitably
for it. |
|
Unlike
any of the other courses, there is no point in attempting
to set out an outline itinerary, as the course has to
be developed for your precise requirements, and to take
account of the likely weather. As this is such a major
route, we suggest that you consider taking two weeks
off, so that you can get out to Chamonix to train and
acclimatise thoroughly before the Guiding. In this way
the date that the Guiding starts can be quite flexible,
to allow for a suitable weather window. This will maximise
your chances of success, and will ensure that you don't
waste the valuable Guiding days getting climbing fit
for the ascent. These days really should be fine tuning,
in final preparation for your climb.
|
|
So
that you get an idea of what the likely format of the
course would be, you should allow at least three days
for the Walker Spur itself. One day will be used to approach
the Leschaux hut at the foot of the Grandes Jorasses.
The second day will be taken by the ascent itself from
the bergschrund to either a bivouac near the summit block,
or even over the summit in the Italian hut. The third
day will be taken completing the route and descending
the mountain to return to Chamonix. As this shows, there
are two days for training with the Guide in preparation
for the route. |
|
Dates: Run on demand from June through
to August. For current availability on this course click
here. |
|
|
Course
Photo Gallery
|
|
|
Walker
Spur route description |
| The
route starts from the Leschaux hut, and there is a hard
slog up the glacier to the bergschrund of the Leschaux
glacier, where it separates from the North Face. This
rimaye is often difficult to cross, and often you have
to abseil into it and climb out on the often overhanging
top side, but once on the far side (at about 3000m) you
reach the first rocks at the bottom of the spur. If you
turn these rocks slightly to the right, then after a pitch
of quite steep mixed climbing, you see a ramp of snow
leading across to the left. The route follows this ramp
across a line of weakness in the buttress, for another
pitch until you are below the main buttress. The first
feature is the 30m diedre (corner), which is quite blocky,
with a roof on the left hand side. From the roof the route
heads to the right for several rope lengths on slightly
easier, though often mixed ground. Above this there are
some snowy sections before you gain the crest of the spur,
where the rock is very broken (and often loose), as you
ascend towards the 75m diedre, which is about level with
the base of the main icefield of the Shroud. The rock
on the whole route is fairly sustained at IV and V, though
the hardest section involves a few moves of VI, and the
corner is usually very wet. At the top of the corner,
the route turns into steep angles slabs, and finally a
short chimney. Above you are some overhangs, which to
get around you traverse to the right, and then make a
short tension traverse abseil of about 10m to reach the
base of a steep chimney. This abseil marks the halfway
point of the route, and you are at the foot of the Grey
Tower. At this stage you are approximately half way up
the route, and the next stage is to climb up the tower.
The steep chimney must be climbed, and then as you ascend
the angle eases off slightly, until you reach a large
block and some very steep dark coloured slabs, called
the Black Slabs. The next section involves some quite
difficult route finding as you follow crack systems upwards
until you reach a slightly overhanging groove leading
upwards. This is climbed until you reach a small ledge.
From here you ascend some quite broken grey slabs to reach
the right hand side of the main spur. The needle of the
Grey Tower is on your left, and as you climb, you reach
mixed ground, and a small hanging icefield, called the
Triangular Névé. Above is the final large
tower, which is slightly red in colour. The best way up
this summit block is to traverse to the right on small
holds, until you reach an area of cracks and chimneys
leading upwards, which are red coloured. The rocks is
quite shattered at this height, and eventually the route
is barred by an overhanging buttress. Another difficult
traverse leads to the right again, and you find a couloir.
Once you are established in the couloir, this ascends
to the left, almost behind the steep buttress, for a few
pitches. Ahead you can see the shoulder of the summit
block. Once this has been reached you are two pitches
from the summit itself, and crampons are usually needed
as you have to break through the cornice to finish the
route, and reach the summit of the Grandes Jorasses at
Pointe Walker at 4208m. |
|
 |
|
| Course
Prices |
|
|
Standard
course
|
5
days guiding, 7 days holiday in total |
£2499 |
|
Premium
course
|
7
days guiding, 8 days holiday in total
(Standard course plus Acclimatisation
weekend)
LINK |
£2598 |
|
|
Secure
online booking system |
|
|
| Standard
Course Inclusions: 1) IFMGA Mountain
Guide for five days, 2) Chamonix course hosts for
logistics & briefings, 3) B&B accommodation
in Chamonix (inc. beddings & towels), 4) Pre
course information booklet, 5) Equipment discount
voucher for UK shops, 6) Free 36 page technical
Course Instruction Booklet, 7) Road transport in
Chamonix valley and to / from Tasch, 8) One night
half board in mountain hut (inc. costs for guides),
9) Evening technical instruction on nights in Chamonix. |
|
| Exclusions:
1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Equipment hire,
3) Personal laundry, telephone calls, lunches, evening
meals in valley, & any purchases in mountain
huts / hotels / restaurants, 4) Cable cars and uplift
for you and your guide (cable cars for guide included
in Chamonix), 5) Transport / tunnel ticket outside
the Chamonix valley, 6) Activities insurance, &
excess baggage charges. |
|
 |
Icicle
expedition kit bag for FREE
All those booking
on this course are entitled to a free Icicle
expedition kit bag. This tough 100 litre capacity
kit bag is designed for full expedition usage
and is made out of durable and waterproof
rip-proof material. It normally retails at
£50. Postage within the UK is included
in the prices. If you live overseas, it's
not a problem at all. We'll let you know the
price for postage. Want a second bag? Order
another, click
here. |
|
|
| Upgrade
options |
|
Acclimatisation
Weekend
£99
(throughout the season) |
To
get the most out your course, acclimatisation
is essential so that you minimise the chances
of AMS (altitude sickness) later on during
your course,
details. |
|
|
Half
Board Upgrade
£99
(throughout the season) |
For
every night that you are in town, you eat
in a different restaurant in the centre of
Chamonix. Always three courses, to power you
for the next day. |
|
|
Private
Room Upgrade
£120
(7-27 June & 6-26 Sept)
£150 (28 June - 5 Sept) |
The
course accommodation is usually in rooms of
two sharing. Two people booking / sending
forms together are guaranteed a room of two
sharing. This upgrade guarantees you a private
room on
your own for your course. |
|
|
|
| |
