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Chamonix Ice & Gullies 2011
PHOTOS: Ice climbing on Deferlante, far above the Argentiere Glacier icefalls
FEEDBACK: "A brilliant week, with superb routes every day. Could not have believed how much I improved,
and I was so glad not to have Scottish style walk ins that waste half of the day"
George J, Exeter, 2004
Course Overview
This course gives you the chance to climb some of the best ice or Alpine routes in winter. If you want to devote every daylight hour to climbing some of the best ice that Europe has on offer, this course is the one for you.
To join this course you should have some previous experience of ice climbing such as a summer or winter intro level course, so you are competant with basic ropework and the use of ice axe and crampons.

The course is aimed at those looking to develop their ice climbing, on routes graded between Grade II to IV ice, or Alpine routes graded at PD / AD level.

During the week you have many route options, from long multi-pitch waterfall ice or gully routes, to shorter more technical routes. You also have the opportunity to learn to lead on ice.
Chamonix valley has over 300 icefalls, and within an hours drive you can reach an additional 1000 icefalls in Italy or Switzerland. A competitor wrote in a newsletter that they "made the best of some thin conditions", which is laughable as there is always good ice in the Alps. It is just a case of knowing where to find it!
Dates: 16 - 22 January 2011, 30 Jan - 5 Feb 2011, 27 Feb - 5 March 2011, 20 - 26 March 2011 (this last date is for altitude ice and gullies only). For latest availability on this course click here.
The course at a glance...
Week long ice course, run during winter. Price £999pp, includes accommodation.
• Basic ice climbing experience necessary. Avalanche safety kit is included.
Top tip... for beginners to ice climbing, look at the Winter Intro Ice & Alpine at £799.
You could also consider week long... Val de Cogne / La Grave or Off Piste Clinic


Course Photo & Video Gallery


Brief Course Itinerary
Sun Travel to Chamonix to arrive for the 17:00 check-in followed by and course safety and itinerary briefings. There is time for kit checks or rental of equipment. Briefings are over by 20:00 and the Chamonix hosts accompany the group to pre-dinner drinks to answer any queries . Night in Chamonix.
Mon A day to refresh your ice climbing skills on valley waterfall ice, such as on Cremerie icefalls. Also a chance to practice placing ice screws, building anchors and leading. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Night in Chamonix.
Tue Small guiding ratios (1:2 max) for the next four days allow you to do technical multi-pitch ice climbing or gullies. Popular climbs include Deferlante, EMHM and Cascade du Tour. Night spent in Chamonix.
Wed Small guiding ratios (1:2 max), either for more ice climbing or a mountaineering route, such as the Arete des Cosmiques on Aiguille du Midi or the Petite Aiguille Verte. Night spent in Chamonix.
Thu Small guiding ratios (1:2 max), either for more ice climbing such as Mini Couloir or Frigor, or for an altitude gully routes such as Couloir Chevalier or Micro Couloir (Col des Montets). Night spent in Chamonix.
Fri Small guiding ratios (1:2 max), either for more ice climbing such as Reposoir or Chatelard, or for an altitude gully routes such as Chere Couloir or Cascade Cosmiques. Night spent in Chamonix.
Sat Breakfast, then course debrief, with feedback and questions and answers session. Depart for home.
ITINERARY NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain adventures are weather and conditions dependant, so occasionaly we are forced to alter the plans. If this is the case, suitable alternatives are offered. Please use this outline itinerary as a guide to the types of route / activity that you will attempt.


Course Photo Gallery

Course Prices
Standard course
5 days guiding, 7 days holiday in total £999
Premium course
7 days guiding, 8 days holiday in total
(Standard course plus Acclimatisation weekend)
LINK
£1098
Secure online booking system
Standard Course Inclusions: 1) IFMGA Mountain Guide for five days, 2) Chamonix course hosts for logistics & briefings, 3) Pre course information booklet, 4) Equipment discount voucher for UK shops, 5) Six nights B&B accommodation in Chamonix (inc. bedding & towels), 6) Free 36 page technical Course Instruction Booklet, 7) Road transport in Chamonix valley, 8) Chamonix office support and evening instruction.
Exclusions: 1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Cable Cars (approx £30), 3) Transport / tunnel ticket outside Chamonix valley 4) Equipment hire, 4) Personal laundry, telephone calls, lunches, evening meals, & any purchases in mountain huts / hotels / restaurants, 6) Activities insurance, & excess baggage charges.
Notes: The loan of all avalanche safety kit is included (avalanche tranceiver, avalanche probe and shovel).
Upgrade options
Acclimatisation Weekend
£99 (throughout the season)
To get the most out your course, acclimatisation is essential so that you minimise the chances of AMS (altitude sickness) later on during your course, details.
Half Board Upgrade
£99 (throughout the season)
For every night that you are in town, you eat in a different restaurant in the centre of Chamonix. Always three courses, to power you for the next day.
Avalanche Skills Day
£49 (throughout the season)
To learn avalanche prediction, reutschblocks and use of avalanche tranceivers. Course is available on any day during the week (includes ARVA), details.