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PHOTOS:
On the summit of the Matterhorn, the Hornlihutte, shoulder
and Solvay, and the Hornli Arete.
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FEEDBACK:
"The most intense feeling of success that I can
ever hope to experience.
I guess there is nothing else I can say to top that"
John L, Bristol, 2005
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| Course
Overview |
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To
ascend the Matterhorn in winter is a special achievement
for any mountaineer, and it takes the best of our Guides
to take you safely to the summit. |
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You
need excellent stamina and fitness and a high level of
previous mountaineering skill, Alpine D/TD, rock climbs
at VI, Scottish Grade V ice. It should appeal to those
who have attended a 1:1 Advanced or ''Ultimate Ice' course
or those who have climbed major peaks such as Denali or
Ama Dablam. |
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In
winter conditions we always use the Hornli ridge of the
Matterhorn. This is because it has a hut at the base (Berghaus
HornliHutte) and a hut at two thirds height; the Solvay
Refuge. These huts provide much needed shelter from the
snow and wind on a winter ascent The descent is usually
by the East Face. |
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This
is true mountaineering, and your stamina and resolve are
pushed to the limits as you ascend through the deep snow
carrying your belongings with you. It is normal to be
the only group on the mountain. |
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Those
who have reached the summit of the Matterhorn in winter
have cast iron determination, skill and desire. It is
a very special experience, reserved for the few. If this
note seems a deterant for you, then please consider another
course, though if these comments present a challenge,
please contact us for further information. |
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Dates:
This course is run on demand, as the guiding ratio is
1:1 throughout. The most common months for winter ascents
are December, January, March, April and May. February
is often too snowy. We recommend all clients to book onto
a Winter
1:1 Advanced course,
and to 'upgrade' to the Matterhorn if it is possible. |
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The
course at a glance... |
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Week long ice course, run during winter. Price £2499pp,
includes accommodation. |
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A high level of mountaineering experience necessary. Avalanche
safety kit is included. |
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Top tip... for those with less experience, look at Waterfall
Ice & Alpine Gullies
at £799. |
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You could also consider week long... 1:1
Winter Advanced or
Ultimate
Ice |
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Course
Photo Gallery
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Brief Course
Itinerary |
| Sun |
Travel
to Chamonix to arrive for the 17:00 check-in followed
by and course safety and itinerary briefings. There is
time for kit checks or rental of equipment. Briefings
are over by 20:00 and the Chamonix hosts accompany the
group to pre-dinner
drinks to answer any queries.
Night in Chamonix. |
| Mon |
This
is your first of five days of 1:1 guiding, for to increase
your acclimatisation on an Alpine route in winter conditions
such as Contamine Grisole, or Goulotte Cosmiques. Night
in Chamonix. |
| Tue |
Travel
over to Zermatt and ascend to the Hornli mountain hut.
When there is a lot of snow this can take a long time,
and you sleep in the winter room of the Hornlihutte to
rest before the climb. |
| Wed |
An
early start from the Hornli hut to ascend to the Solvay
bivouac hut (located between the two steepest sections
on the route). Night in Solvay hut. Here you are poised
for your summit bid. |
| Thu |
Ascent from the Solvay hut to the summit of the Matterhorn.
Descend back to the Solvay hut for the night. This is
a long day on the most exposed and highest section of
the Matterhorn route. |
| Fri |
Complete
the descent from the Solvay hut to the Hornli hut, then
return to Zermatt. Return to Chamonix for the night. After
the last five days of climbing you have earnt yourself
a few beers! |
| Sat |
Breakfast,
then course debrief, with feedback and questions and answers
session. Depart for home. |
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| ITINERARY
NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain
adventures are weather and conditions dependant, so occasionaly
we are forced to alter the plans. If this is the case,
suitable alternatives are offered. Please use this outline
itinerary as a guide to the types of route / activity
that you will attempt. |
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Course
Photo Gallery
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| Course
Prices |
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Standard
course
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5
days guiding, 7 days holiday in total |
£2499 |
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Premium
course
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7
days guiding, 8 days holiday in total
(Standard course plus Acclimatisation weekend)
LINK |
£2598 |
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Secure
online booking system |
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| Standard
Course Inclusions: 1) IFMGA Mountain Guide for five
days, 2) Transport costs to and from Zermatt, 3) Chamonix course
hosts for logistics & briefings, 4) Six nights B&B accommodation
in Chamonix (inc. bedding & towels), 5) Equipment discount
voucher for UK shops, 6) Pre course information booklet, 7)
Free 36 page technical Course Instruction Booklet, 8) Road transport
in Chamonix valley, 9) Chamonix office support and evening instruction. |
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| Exclusions:
1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Cable Cars (approx £30),
3) Transport / tunnel ticket outside Chamonix valley (except
to / from Zermatt), 4) Equipment hire, 4) Personal laundry,
telephone calls, lunches, evening meals, & any purchases
in mountain huts / hotels / restaurants, 6) Activities insurance,
& excess baggage charges. |
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| Notes:
The
loan of all avalanche safety kit is included (avalanche tranceiver,
avalanche probe and shovel). Also included is the bivouac bag,
stove, pans & utensils for accommodation on the mountain. |
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| Upgrade
options |
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Acclimatisation
Weekend
£99
(throughout the season) |
To
get the most out your course, acclimatisation is essential
so that you minimise the chances of AMS (altitude sickness)
later on during your course,
details. |
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Avalanche
Skills Day
£49
(throughout the season) |
To
learn avalanche prediction, reutschblocks and use of avalanche
tranceivers. Course is available on any day during the
week (includes ARVA),
details. |
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