FEEDBACK:"There’s no point beating about the proverbial
bush when it comes to the Matterhorn,
I’m afraid. It’s a serious chunk of rock and
you’ve got to be 100% up for it. Not one of the
easiest
things I have ever done. But the Icicle team are brill
and if anyone can
get you up there they will" Christian M, Edinburgh,
2005
Course
overview
The
Matterhorn is probably the most recognised
mountain in the world, due to its unique
triangular shape. The mountain is fairly
difficult to ascend by any route, and was
one of the last Alpine 4000ers to be climbed.
The classic routes up the mountain are the
Hörnli Aréte from Zermatt, and
Lion Ridge from Cervinia.
When
researching this mountain, have a read of
our mountain
focus page, which details
the routes up the Matterhorn, and gives more
detailed advice on preparation and the history
of the mountain.
To
book this course, you should be very fit,
have good footwork on steep ground, be good
with exposure and have good ropework skills
(previous skills: Alpine PD / Grade II Ice
/ UK Severe / US 5.9).
To
keep the price as low as possible, the first
three training days are at 1:2 Guiding ratio,
but to maximise your safety and summiting
success, and so you can move at your speed,
you climb the Matterhorn at a 1:1 ratio.
If
you have significant previous rock climbing
experience, but not much crampon or alpine
experience, this can be developed over the
week of the course as only the summit block
usually needs to be climbed in crampons. Note
that if you ascend via the Lion Ridge, you
should have more experience than the minimum.
For
clients who have climbed in Chamonix before, there are over 4000 routes
so you are guaranteed not to repeat anything
during the training days. You are guaranteed new, challenging objectives.
Many
Alpine 4000ers can be climbed with a low amount
of skill or talent. Not so for the Matterhorn,
and, due to the exposure, inexperienced peak
baggers should beware that their chances of
success will be low.
We
will not accept clients on this course unless
we believe they have the necessary experience
for success.
You
will see from the itinerary, that you will
climb many routes to prepare you before the
Matterhorn, to fully prepare you in terms
of ropework and acclimatisation.
Dates: these
are listed in the column on the right, and
they show the live availability from our secure
online booking system. When you book online,
you receive immediate confirmation, your Alpine
Information Booklet, course specific kit list
and invoice.
150th
Anniversary:
2015 marked the 150th anniversary of the first
ascent of the Matterhorn by Edward Whymper and
his party. To mark this anniversary, the Hornli
hut on the Matterhorn has undergone a massive
renovation and extension project (link),
which was completed in time for the start of the
2015 season. When full, the Hornli hut sleeps up to 130 climbers (65 climbing teams).
For those who
opt to make a full traverse of the Matterhorn,ascending
the Italian Lion ridge and descending the Swiss
Hornli arete, this is only possible for those
booking the 1:1 course throughout, as three days
are required on the Matterhorn, and you would
be liable for the second (Hornli) hut night and
extra uplift.
We
have produced a detailed Matterhorn
mountain and route focus page for you to read, in order to help you better prepare
yourself for an ascent.
Hornli hut is not often full, but we keep a close eye on how busy it is, and have an accommodation Plan B when Hornli is too busy, to ensure you can start climbing before the other teams, and avoid the crowds, to make it a safer and more enjoyable climb. It makes the day 1.5 - 2 hours longer, but safety is worth the early start!
Brief
Course Itinerary
Day 1| Sunday
Travel to Chamonix. Accommodation check in at 17:00. Mont Blanc specific course safety and itinerary briefing at 17:30.
There is time for kit checks or fitting rental equipment after.
Briefings are over by 18:30 and then you are free to go out for dinner / drinks. Many clients opt
to travel out a day or two early to start their acclimatisation at Aiguille du Midi or with a night in a mountain hut (e.g. Cosmiques or Albert 1er). Night in Chamonix. Gallery: Chamonix town
Day 2 | Monday
Climbing
on the sunny side of the valley: the Aiguilles Rouges.
Popular routes include the Chapelle de la Gliere
with its knife edge traverse or the L'Index. The objective of the day is to get you moving quickly and efficently over pitch after pitch, exactly like you would be doing on the Eiger, and to make your belay transitions and ropework really slick. The highlight is the razor pitch of the climb. Guiding
ratio 1:2 (max). Night in Chamonix. Gallery: Chapelle de la Gliere
Day 3 | Tuesday
Altitude
Route: Either climb Aiguille d'Entreves or
the Marbrée Arete. Possibility of staying
in a hut for the night, such as the Torino,
for an Alpine start the next day. The traverse of Entreves is a great route, super exposed, but on good rock. You can pose on the infamous granite needle in mid traverse. It's great training for the Eiger, technically, for the exposure, and to help you acclimatise well. Guiding
ratio 1:2 (max) Gallery: Aiguilles d'Entreves
Day 4 | Wednesday
Either
another day route such as the Chere Couloir,
or an Alpine start from the hut for a route
such as the Dent du Geant or the Rochefort
Arete. Whatever route you decide, will be based on what's the ideal for your preparation, tailored to not tire you too much, but also to ensure you are ready for the main ascent. Other route options include the Midi Plan or Perrons traverses. Return to Chamonix for the night. Guiding ration 1:2 (max). Gallery: Dent du Geant
Day 5 | Thursday
Drive
to Tasch (c. 2hrs) then train to Zermatt and cable
car to Schwartzee, followed by the trek to the Hornli
hut for the night. If climbing via the Lion Ridge,
you drive to Cervinia (c. 2.5hrs), then take 4x4 / e-bike
to the Abruzzi hut, and climb to the Carrell hut. The Hornli hut was renovated for the 150th anniversary of the first ascent, and the Carrell in 2025. Guiding ratio
1:1 (max). Night spent in mountain hut for acclimatisation. Gallery: Matterhorn via Lion Ridge
Day 6 | Friday
Alpine
start to ascend the Matterhorn, starting around
4am from the hut. On the Hornli route, the timings the guides aim for are 2 hours to the Solvay hut, and another 2 hours to the summit. The descent typically takes a little longer than the ascent, so it's c.8 hours of highly focused climbing to prepare for. After the climb you descend to
the hut and return to Chamonix for celebrations!
Guiding ratio (1:1 max). Night in Chamonix. Gallery: Matterhorn via Hornli Ridge
Day 7 | Saturday
Breakfast then the accommodation check out by
10:00. Most arrange transfers for around this
time for a flight from Geneva about midday. Some
opt to book a tandem paraglider flight in
the morning, or to go rafting, mountain biking, or trail running, if you still have the energy! Our resort team can advise you on where to arrange any of this, or routes. For those departing late, bags can be stored during the day. Depart for home. Gallery: Icicle Windermere office
ITINERARY
NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain
adventures are weather and conditions dependant, so occasionaly
we are forced to alter the plans. If this is the case,
suitable alternatives are offered. Please use this outline
itinerary as a guide to the types of route / activity
that you will attempt.
Course
Prices
Standard
course
5 days guiding, 7 days holiday in total
IFMGA mountain guides for 5 days
£2995
Live
availability
Click
on the planner logo to the right to
see the real time live course availability
How to book
Secure
payments, bonded tour operator
Details of how to book, click
here
6) Self-catered flat in Chamonix for 6 nights, with no moving out when in huts
7) One night mountain hut half board on Matterhorn (inc. costs for mountain guide) in the Carrell / equivalent budget applied to Hornli hut reservation
8) Road transport with your guide to / from Grindelwald, tolls and car parking
Exclusions:
1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Equipment hire,
3) Personal laundry, telephone calls, lunches, evening
meals in valley, & any purchases in mountain
huts / hotels / restaurants, 4) Cable cars and uplift
(train, taxi, 4x4, etc) for you and your guide (when required) in Chamonix and Zermatt / Cervinia, 5) Optional second night
in a mountain hut on the training days, on a half
board basis for you and your guide, 6) If you /
guide opt to climb via the Hornli, there is a c.£190
supplement paid at the hut (click for Hornli costs), 7) Activities insurance.
Notes:
The scheduled standard course assumes 1:2 guiding
for the first 3 days. Note that is there is just
one person on a course, less 1:1 guiding days can
be offered, however accommodation will be provided
for the whole week, and guiding options and locations
will be discussed with you within the budget paid.
1:1
upgrade: Have you thought of upgrading
to a 1:1 course throughout? Some clients prefer
this strategy to provide even more flexibility during
the week, and to allow them to move on all routes,
at a more tailored pace. One key advantage is that
the Matterhorn itself could even be climbed over
a three day period, with two nights in huts on the
mountain (n.b. only one night is included as per
inclusions above). The 1:1 guiding ratio for the
five days, with the same other inclusions as the
standard course, costs £3695.
Course
upgrade options
Many clients on
this trip consider upgrading with one
or more of the following course additions...
Private
room
Big
5 Alpine
extensions
Technical
kit rental
Acclimatise
weekend
Upgrade
to single from
£300-£500 in addition to
standard course price,
depending on week.
Extend by 2 days after
to ascend one of the
Big 5 Alpine peaks as
an extra summit.
Rent all technical kit
for a week. Full Alpine
Bundle costs you just
£100 for the week.
Saturday
night spent in
Chamonix, with choice
of self-guided or guided
on Sunday. From £70.
Standard
course accommodation - normally clients are
based in self-catered flats (details),
so take a look, and decide if it's for you.
For more luxury, contact us for quotes in
higher standard apartments, or hotels of any
standard required. If you have / source your
own course accommodation, or we cannot provide
an upgrade, the standard course price has
a £200pp reduction applied on your invoice.
Matterhorn training weekend UK
This
weekend is based in the UK Lake District, with two days guiding on scrambling and rock climbing terrain. It aims to give you as much preparation on similar ground, that you will encounter on the Matterhorn (or the Eiger). The UK
Matterhorn Training weekend is guided on a 1:2 ratio, to allow you to push your level. We offer scheduled dates (see the box to the right), though if there are 2 of you booking together, we can operate this on any week that you request.
Weekend
dates
Course spaces & dates
for the UK Matterhorn Training Weekend (link)...
It
was a great preparation week leading
up to the climb, so we were totally
prepared and
well acclimatised. Even so, it was far
harder than I expected, but a really
great experience. Adele
Stevens , Matterhorn
Thanks
so much to all you guys for making this
dream come true. Brilliant guides, who
looked after us and kept us safe Phil
Jones , Matterhorn
I
had failed before on this peak (with
another company), but your approach was far
more about getting it done, and as you
know, it clearly worked! Mark
Watkins , Matterhorn
Testimonials
Press
& media
Films
& videos
Photo
gallery
Matterhorn film gallery
Location
data for this trip
The
trips start in the Chamonix valley in the French Alps,
at the foot of Mont Blanc. It is easily accessed via a
90 minute transfer from Geneva airport.
Time
Difference
GMT +1hr
Local
Currency
€ Euros
Travel
from UK
1hr flight
Buy key items for this trip
FREE post for
UK orders over £30 FREE Icicle
neck gaiter for
orders over £50
Shopping
cart
Click
above to view online shopping
basket & pay.
4000m Peaks guidebook
£25.00
BD
Cosmo headtorch
£29.99
BD Vector helmet
£74.99
Extremities
Guide glove
£29.99
Matterhorn 1:25k map
£10.99
BD Sabretooth
£135.00
Grivel
Air Tech Evo axe
£130.00
BD
Epic 35l rucksack
£129.00
View
full course equipment list,
with examples of kit, click
here
Free
resources
FREE
Podcast
Climbing the Matterhorn
If you've ever wondered what it is like
to attempt this peak, the skills required,
and the suggested training for this
peak, then this podcast answers it all...
We
send a course specific equipment list to all those booking
on our courses, but due to the popularity of this course,
we outline a typical packing list for the summit day in
the list below.
Basic
clothing - Light coloured long
sleeve wicking layer
- Schoeller / soft shell climbing trousers
- Mid layer fleece jacket / gillet
- Fleece hat and gloves, and sunhat / cap
- B2 technical mountain boots, & gaiters
Equipment - Harness, helmet, ice
axe (without leash)
- 12 point crampons and anti-balling plates
- 1 x 120cm Sling, 1 x karabiner, 1 x prussic
- Belay device for abseils (if required)
- Head torch (LED style is lightest type)
Altitude
gear - Synthetic or down insulation
jacket
- Goggles in case of high wind
- Neoprane face mask in case of wind
- Thick waterproof over gloves
- Windproof over trousers (eg PacLite)
General
kit - Close fitting sun glasses
(Factor 4 for snow)
- Pocket snacks for summit day (eg Haribos)
- Water bottle (bladder type may freeze)
- Rucksack (up to 35 litres max is ideal)
- Basic blister kit, Aspirin, suncream
Top kit tips - Take a Petzl Adjust (or similar) lanyard to make yourself safe quickly at every anchor or belay.
- Have one very big screw gate krab which opens wide, to clip onto fixed metal stakes on the peak, so as to be able to release your rope from below, if another group is using the same anchor, so you don't lose time!
Preparation - altitude
& training...
An
ascent of the Matterhorn should not be underestimated,
and you should arrive for this course in good physical
condition as the climb will probably be the greatest
physical exertion of your life. Please don't ignore
this issue... We highly recommend that you read
our training page (click
here) for details.
If you are worried about acclimatisation,
we recommend that you book on an Acclimatisation
Weekend before your course. to help you get acclimatised
earlier, leaving you with more summiting weather
windows for the Matterhorn.
Why
choose our trips?
See
our Matterhorn blog, by clicking on the Word-press
logo to the right.
Itinerary
flexibility to allow you to take full advantage
of the weather windows on any day, to maximise your
summit chances.
Our
prices are fixed in £ Sterling, to protect
you from euro fluctuations, so you can budget accurately.
There
is a choice of routes to opt for, depending on the
weather, conditions, and your experience.
Any
further questions?
A
key part of choosing a company is being able to come and
talk about your plans with an experienced course advisor
face to face. In an increasingly virtual world, we know
our clients value speaking to real people, getting open
and honest advice. The vast majority of our clients are
British, and our office and outdoor store is based in
Windermere in the English Lake District.
Get
in contact to arrange a meeting, and come in for a coffee
to discuss your course in person with a trip
advisor.
Gallery: 
