For
those with a little previous climbing experience,
the Mont Blanc Intermediate course is the
Alpine Autonomy Course with the Mont Blanc
Summits course on the end to give a good chance
of summiting Mont Blanc.
Over
two weeks you attempt famous Alpine routes,
such as the remote Domes du Miages, and train
and acclimatise for your ascent of Mont Blanc.
There are up to three nights in huts to acclimatise.
On
the second week of this course, we are as
flexible as possible with the itinerary so
that, if you feel ready, fit and acclimatised,
you can make your summit attempt on the first
weather window.
The
technical content will be tailored to build
on your current experience, with an emphasis
on glacier travel and crevasse rescue on both
dry and wet glaciers. The course also covers
a whole host of ropework and Alpine safety
issues such as avalanche awareness, belays
and anchors, crampon and ice axe techniques.
This
course is set at just above the level of the
Introduction course (summer or winter), so
if you have a bit too much experience (such
as previous rock climbing experience) this
course is for you. The vast majority of the
routes ascended are of the Alpine PD grade
(roughly equivalent to Scottish Grade II/III).
The
second week is focused on you preparing and
summiting Mont Blanc, with other summits and
nights spent at altitude to increase acclimatisation.
Read our dedicated information page on Mont
Blanc: summit
focus.
On
the second week of this course, we are deliberately
as flexible as possible with the itinerary
so that, if you feel ready, fit and acclimatised,
you can make your summit attempt on the first
available weather window during this second
week.
Dates: these
are listed in the column on the right, and
they show the live availability from our secure
online booking system. When you book online,
you receive immediate confirmation, your Alpine
Information Booklet, course specific kit list
and invoice.
Brief
Course Itinerary
Day 1 | Sunday
Travel to Chamonix. Accommodation check in at 17:00. Mont Blanc specific course safety and itinerary briefing at 17:30.
There is time for kit checks or fitting rental equipment after.
Briefings are over by 18:30 and then you are free to go out for dinner / drinks. Many clients opt
to travel out a day or two early to start their acclimatisation at Aiguille du Midi or with a night in a mountain hut (e.g. Cosmiques or Albert 1er). Night in Chamonix. Gallery: Chamonix town
Day 2 | Monday
Day
to learn and practice using crampons and ice axes
on the Mer de Glace / Argentiere glacier (2000m). You climb
vertical ice, create ice anchors, and learn glacier
travel skills. This is one of your most important
days of the course in terms of skills development
as it is essential to have good footwork with crampons. Guiding ratio 1:4 (max). Evening
theory session / meeting with course hosts: click
for info.
Night in Chamonix. Gallery: Mer de Glace
Day 3 | Tuesday
Flexible itinerary to adapt to existing skills, and balance of learning and climbing. Possible routes include Traverse of Aiguille
du Crochues or Mic et Maousse, to focus on ropework, moving
together, anchors, etc. The
route chosen for this day is generally a mixed
route that is ascended in mountain boots rather
than rock shoes. Guiding ratio 1:4 (max). Evening
theory session / meeting with course hosts: click
for info.
Night in Chamonix. Gallery: Autonomy skills
Day 4 | Wednesday
Today is a perfect chance to develop crevasse rescue skills, and there are good locations near Midi or Helbronner. Alternatively climb a snowy summit, perhaps as one guided, and one independent team undersupervision of the guide with the other team. Ascents such as Petit Flambeau, or one peak of Marbrees or Lachenal. Guiding ratio 1:4 (max). Evening
theory session / meeting with course hosts: click
for info. Night in Chamonix. Gallery: Petite Aiguille Verte
Day 5 | Thursday
The
start of a two day route with a night in a
mountain hut (half board hut not included for you and guide), or a day route. You
decide the itinerary for the last two days
of this course. Typically groups ascend the
Domes du Miages, Aiguille du Tour, Petite
Forche, or Mont Blanc du Tacul, and the route
chosen is a reflection of your autonomy skills
development and of the conditions. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Night in mountain hut / Chamonix. Gallery: Aiguille du Tour
Day 6 | Friday
If
you opted for a two day route, then today
will be an Alpine start from the mountain
hut to ascend one of the peaks mentioned on
the previous day, or it could also be another
day route e.g. Cosmiques Arete / Marbrees / Entreves / Chapelle de la Gliere. After
the main ascent of the week, you descend back
to the Chamonix valley. Guiding ratio 1:2
(max). Evening social drinks, then a celebratory
meal, with the final night spent in Chamonix. Gallery: Autonomy week
Day 7 | Saturday
Today is a well earned days off to really
concentrate on resting and relaxation, and personal admin such as sorting kit and repacking. Maybe consider spending a few hours at Aiguille du Midi to further acclimatise. Mont Blanc specific course safety and itinerary briefing at 17:30.
There is time for kit checks or fitting rental equipment after.
Briefings are over by 18:30 and then you are free to go out for dinner / drinks. Gallery: Chamonix rock climbing
Day 8 | Sunday
After breakfast you meet our resort team, and guide, for a weather briefing and final kit checks for Gran Paradiso. You are driven by private minibus shuttle through the Mont Blanc tunnel to Pont in Val Savaranches in Italy, then ascend to the Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele II or Chabod mountain hut, where you spend the night on a half board basis. Guiding ratio 1:3 (max) in hut, or 1:6 (max) for approach. Night in mountain hut in Italy. Gallery: Paradiso National Park
Day 9 | Monday
Alpine start (c.4 am) to climb Gran Paradiso 4061, the highest peak completely in Italy. There are 4 possible normal routes to the summit, to cater for conditions / experience, all of which converge on the Col Montcorve. The route steepens to the final summit ridge, which although short is quite exposed, but well protected. The summit views are stupendous in all directions! Descend to Pont for return transfer to Chamonix.
Night in Chamonix. Gallery: Gran Paradiso 4061m
Day 10 | Tuesday
The next 3 days are geared to your Mont Blanc ascent. There are several route and hut choices, depending on conditions / weather / spaces, but the most popular is to ascend to the Tête Rousse hut today. This is reached by a 2 - 3 hour hike up from the Nid d'Aigle terminus of the Tramway du Mont Blanc, accessed from the Bellevue cable car. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Night in mountain hut on Mont Blanc. Gallery: Mont Blanc Gouter
Day 11 | Wednesday
Typically summit day starts soon after midnight, to cross the Gouter couloir in the coldest part of the night. You scramble up past the Gouter hut after c.3 hours, and after a quick rest you start the final push for the summit over Dome du Gouter and the Bosses Arete, taking another c.4 hours. After the summit celebrations, you descend to Gouter hut, to sleep for the night, as it might be too late to cross the couloir.
Night in hut on Mont Blanc. Gallery: Mont Blanc Gouter route
Day 12 | Thursday
After breakfast in the Gouter hut, you quickly descend to cross the couloir while it is still cold, and rockfall risks are minimised. You soon reach the Tête Rousse hut, and then the dangers are over, and you hike down the trail back to the Nid d'Aigle, to catch the tramway and cable car down to Les Houches. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Return and hire equipment at 17:30. Most teams opt to go out later to celebrate. Final night in Chamonix. Gallery: Mont Blanc Gonella route
Day 13 | Friday
Breakfast then the accommodation check out by
10:00. Most arrange transfers for around this
time for a flight from Geneva about midday. Some
opt to book a tandem paraglider flight in
the morning, or to go rafting, mountain biking, or trail running, if you still have the energy! Our resort team can advise you on where to arrange any of this, or routes. For those departing late, bags can be stored during the day. Depart for home. Gallery: Icicle Windermere office
ITINERARY
NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain
adventures are weather and conditions dependant, so occasionally
we are forced to alter the plans. If this is the case,
suitable alternatives are offered. Please use this outline
itinerary as a guide to the types of route / activity
that you will attempt.
Course
Prices
Alpine Autonomy course (£1495) followed by Mont Blanc
Summits course (£2495), totals £3990, so you
save £145!
Standard
course
10 days guiding, 14 days holiday in total
IFMGA mountain guides for 10 days
£3845
Live
availability
Click
on the planner logo to the right to
see the real time live course availability
How to book
Secure
payments, bonded tour operator
Details of how to book, click
here
Exclusions:
1) Travel to & from Chamonix, 2) Equipment hire,
3) Cable cars & uplift for you (and guide if required), 4) Lunches & snacks for during the days, 5) Optional night half board in mountain
hut (inc. costs for guides) on first week, 6) Breakfasts and evening meals in Chamonix, & any purchases in mountain
huts, 7) Activities insurance.
Course
upgrade options
Many clients on this
trip consider upgrading with one or more of
the following course additions...
Private
room
Big
5 Alpine
extensions
Technical
kit rental
Acclimatise
weekend
Upgrade
to single from
£300-£500 in addition to
standard course price,
depending on week.
Extend by 2 days after
to ascend one of the
Big 5 Alpine peaks as
an extra summit.
Rent all technical kit
for a week. Full Alpine
Bundle costs you just
£100 for the week.
Saturday
night spent in
Chamonix, with choice
of self-guided or guided
on Sunday. From £70.
Standard
course accommodation - normally clients are based
in self-catered flats (details),
so take a look, and decide if it's for you. For
more luxury, contact us for quotes in higher standard
apartments, or hotels of any standard required.
If you have / source your own course accommodation,
or we cannot provide an upgrade, the standard course
price has a £300pp reduction applied on your
invoiceq
FREE
Alpine summits open eve
This
is an event extra to the UK
Alpine Training weekend course. It is
FREE and open to those booked on our Mont Blanc
/ Eiger / Matterhorn trips. The event runs from
18:00 to 19:30 at our Windermere shop, to show films
of the routes, and discuss kit and training. You
don't need to be attending the weekend course to
join the open evening (more
details). E-mail us to reserve space(s)
and confirm availability. Dates are the Saturdays
of the weekend dates on the right.
Weekend
dates
Course spaces and dates for
the UK Alpine Training Weekend (link)...
Good
organisation. Plenty of information
and skills learnt from Guides and instructors.
Felt very confident of suggestions and
recommendations of routes. Very useful
course for learning autonomy in the
Alps. Gained lots of skills useful for
climbing in a small unguided team Ryan
D , MB Autonomy
Thank
you all for your assistance with our
group, and many compliments from us
all on the structure itinerary Josephine
T ,
MB Autonomy
Fun
and informative all the time Jess
W , MB Autonomy
Testimonials
Press
& media
Films
& videos
Photo
gallery
Location
data for this trip
The
trips are based in the Chamonix valley in the French Alps,
at the foot of Mont Blanc. It is easily accessed via a
90 minute transfer from Geneva airport.
Time
Difference
GMT +1hr
Local
Currency
€ Euros
Travel
from UK
1hr flight
Pre-requisite
experience
For
this course there is a large quantity of technical instruction
and skills elements, with a wide range of routes that
can be climbed during the week. Please ensure that you
have all the pre-requisite skills and experience requirements
for this course; Crampons - have used crampons, even for winter
skills / walking Rock - if no outdoor rock experience, to be a capable scrambler Ropework - be able to tie on to a rope, and to belay safety Fitness - to be the fitness
required for this Mont Blanc course
Course film shorts
Free
resources
FREE
Podcast Training
for Mont Blanc
A no holes barred podcast, to fully
explain what an ascent entails physically
and technically, including several examples
of hill training.
We
send a course specific equipment list to all those booking
on our courses, but due to the popularity of this course,
we outline a typical packing list for the Mont Blanc summit
day in the list below.
Basic
clothing - Light coloured long
sleeve wicking layer
- Schoeller / soft shell climbing trousers
- Mid layer fleece jacket / gillet
- Fleece hat and gloves, and sunhat / cap
- B3 leather / plastic boots, and gaiters
Equipment - Harness, helmet, ice
axe (without leash)
- 12 point crampons andanti-balling plates
- 1 x 120cm Sling, 1 x karabiner, 1 x prussic
- Telescopic trekking poles with snow baskets
- Head torch (LED style is lightest type)
Altitude
gear - Synthetic or down insulation
jacket
- Goggles in case of high wind
- Neoprane face mask in case of wind
- Thick waterproof over gloves
- Windproof over trousers (eg PacLite)
General
kit - Close fitting sun glasses
(Factor 4 for snow)
- Pocket snacks for summit day (eg Haribos)
- Water bottle (bladder type may freeze)
- Rucksack (up to 35 litres max is ideal)
- Basic blister kit, Aspirin, suncream
View
full course equipment list,
with examples of kit, click
here
Why
choose our trips?
See
our Alpine blog, by clicking on the Word-press logo
to the right.
Itinerary
flexibility to allow you to take full advantage
of the weather windows on any day, to maximise your
summit chances.
Our
prices are fixed in £ Sterling, to protect
you from euro fluctuations, so you can budget accurately.
There
is a choice of routes to opt for, depending on the
weather, conditions, and your experience.
Any
further questions?
A
key part of choosing a company is being able to come and
talk about your plans with an experienced course advisor
face to face. In an increasingly virtual world, we know
our clients value speaking to real people, getting open
and honest advice. The vast majority of our clients are
British, and our office and outdoor store is based in
Windermere in the English Lake District.
Get
in contact to arrange a meeting, and come in for a coffee
to discuss your course in person with a trip
advisor.
Gallery: 
Crampons - have used crampons, even for winter
skills / walking
