Icicle: Route and weather conditions

Celebrating 22 years!

Routes & Weather Conditions Page

Unless you are a regular visitor to the Alps, there is a bewildering range of information about when routes are in condition and what you can do at any time each year. To help you understand this, especially if you are planning a trip to the Alps, either through Icicle or unguided, this page is divided into two sections...

Summary of a typical Alpine year
This will help you to get a brief idea of what to expect each month. We review all the mountain conditions, types of route to climb each month, and all the typical hut and cable car openings. > Link to section

Full route reports of a year,
This is the weekly full conditions report for a whole year in the Alps, so that you gain a better appreciation of the types of routes ascended each month, and the key seasons for key routes. > Link to section

Photo: sunrise over the summit on an Icicle Kimimanjaro Expedition

Summary of a typical Alpine year

MONTH	TYPICAL CONDITIONS & WEATHER
January	WATERFALL ICE: One of the best months as all routes come in condition. ROCK: Totally out of condition, as snowy / ice, and the avalanche risk. MOUNTAIN: Goulottes routes are good, but avoid snow face style routes. SKIING: Most pistes open, and improving snow depth through the month. MONT BLANC: Unclimbable due to the depth of fresh snow / avalanches. MATTERHORN: Possible over several days of climbing and bivouacs. WEATHER: Ususally very cold (c.-15C in valley), and dry conditions. CABLE CARS: All cable cars open, as it is the key ski season.
February	WATERFALL ICE: Generally all routes in prime condition, even in valley. ROCK: Totally out of condition, as snowy / ice, and the avalanche risk. MOUNTAIN: Some altitude ice routes will form, & ridge routes are good. SKIING: Good on and off piste skiing. Vallee Blanche generally possible. MONT BLANC: Unclimbable due to the depth of fresh snow / avalanches. MATTERHORN: May still be possible early in month unless lots of snow. WEATHER: Not as cold, and regular snowfalls throughout the month. CABLE CARS: All cable cars open, as it is the key ski season.
March	WATERFALL ICE: Still in condition, though past the peak conditions. ROCK: Totally out of condition, as snowy / ice, and the avalanche risk. MOUNTAIN: A good month for winter technical mountaineering ascents. SKIING: Good skiing. Vallee Blanche generally possible. Touring starts. MONT BLANC: Unclimbable on foot. First ski tour ascents at end of month. MATTERHORN: May be possible towards end of month if not very snowy. WEATHER: Similar weather patterns to during February, several snowfalls. CABLE CARS: All cable cars open, as it is the key ski season.
April	WATERFALL ICE: Some route still climbable, but rapidly deteriorating. ROCK: As the snow starts to melt, some valley crags become climbable. MOUNTAIN: Approaches to routes require skis / snow shoes this season. SKIING: Good skiing. Vallee Blanche may be possible. Touring very popular. MONT BLANC: No foot ascents. Touring ascents popular from mid month. MATTERHORN: Often possible until mid month when cable cars close. WEATHER: Some warm days in the valley, and final winter snows up high. CABLE CARS: Open until the last week of April then closed for 2 months.
May	WATERFALL ICE: Hang up your technical axes & crampons until December. ROCK: Valley crags are now dry, & have been cleaned by the winter snows. MOUNTAIN: Some good mountaineering conditions, but very few cable cars. SKIING: Final month for piste skiing. Ski touring season is at its maximum. MONT BLANC: No foot ascents. Touring ascents popular through month. MATTERHORN: Off season. Too snowy for summer ascents & no cable cars. WEATHER: Spring showers and getting much warmer throughout the month. CABLE CARS: Most cable cars closed all month (seasonal maintainance).
June	WATERFALL ICE: No routes exist this month! ROCK: Mountain rock and valley crags are dry, so this is a key rock month. MOUNTAIN: Start of the summer season. Snow / ice routes good condition. SKIING: Pistes closed. Possible ski touring at altitude. Put away your skis. MONT BLANC: Final ski ascents / descents, & first mountaineering ascents. MATTERHORN: Off season. Too snowy for summer ascents & no cable cars. WEATHER: Valley temperatures up to 36C, and lower altitude windspeeds. CABLE CARS: From mid month cable cars start to reopen for the summer.
July	WATERFALL ICE: No routes exist this month! ROCK: Mountain rock and valley crags are dry, so this is a key rock month. MOUNTAIN: Main summer season. Ice face routes are now out of condition. SKIING: No skiing until December at earliest. MONT BLANC: In condition, and busy from Bastille day in middle of month. MATTERHORN: Summer conditions from mid month as the route dries out. WEATHER: Fairly stable anticyclonic (high pressure) conditions dominant. CABLE CARS: All main cable cars are open for the summer season.
August	WATERFALL ICE: No routes exist this month! ROCK: Mountain rock and valley crags are dry, so this is a key rock month. MOUNTAIN: The peak month for summer season. Snow routes getting icy. SKIING: No skiing until December at earliest. MONT BLANC: In condition, though getting quieter at the end of the month. MATTERHORN: Summer conditions throughout month, as it is fairly dry. WEATHER: Fairly stable anticyclonic (high pressure) conditions dominant. CABLE CARS: Early starts on some key cable cars, eg Midi opens at 06:00.
September	WATERFALL ICE: No routes exist this month! ROCK: Mountain rock and valley crags are dry, so this is a key rock month. MOUNTAIN: Final month for most routes to remain in summer conditions. SKIING: No skiing until December at earliest. MONT BLANC: In condition, though it is colder up high due to Autumn. MATTERHORN: May still be in condition in early, then in winter condition. WEATHER: The anticyclonic conditions start to break down at end of month. CABLE CARS: Some cable cars close from about the third week of the month.
October	WATERFALL ICE: No routes exist this month! ROCK: As the weather degrades, seepage lines take routes out of condition. MOUNTAIN: First winter snows start to fall. Access difficult without cable cars. SKIING: No skiing until December at earliest. MONT BLANC: Possible, but there will be fresh snows, and it will be very cold. MATTERHORN: Off season. Too snowy for summer ascents & no cable cars. WEATHER: Generally fairly bad weather, rain in valley, snow at altitude. CABLE CARS: Most cable cars are closed for their seasonal maintenance.
November	WATERFALL ICE: No routes exist this month! ROCK: Generally to cold & wet for rock climbing. Wait until April at earliest. MOUNTAIN: Most routes are out of condition due to snow & no cable cars. SKIING: No skiing until December at earliest. MONT BLANC: Generally unclimbable due to unsettled weather and snowfall. MATTERHORN: Off season. Too snowy for summer ascents & no cable cars. WEATHER: Generally fairly bad weather, rain in valley, snow at altitude. CABLE CARS: Most cable cars are closed for their seasonal maintenance.
December	WATERFALL ICE: Route start coming into condition from the mid month. ROCK: Totally out of condition, as snowy / ice, and the avalanche risk. MOUNTAIN: Some routes start to stabalise, & come into winter condition. SKIING: Pistes open mid month. Thin conditions. Vallee Blanche closed. MONT BLANC: Unclimbable due to the depth of fresh snow / avalanches. MATTERHORN: Off season. Too snowy for summer ascents & no cable cars. WEATHER: Getting colder and first major winter snows fall in the valley. CABLE CARS: Most cable cars are running by the third week of December.

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Full route and conditions reports of a full year in the Alps

PERIOD	ROUTE	COMMENTS
December	End of month summary LINK TO TOP OF PAGE	The winter season really started from mid month, and the icefalls formed rapidly. There was no snow in the valley until the 16 December. The Midi reopened from seasonal maintenance, though there is still very restricted skiing.
27 - 31 Dec	Véry Icefalls, Megeve Planay Icefalls, Megeve Levure Icefalls, Cogne Arete des Cosmiques Trient, Switzerland Midi Plan traverse Repentance, Cogne Deferlante	Route in very good condition for time of year Icefalls and dry / mixed routes all climbable The route is now in good climable condition Good track up route & in very good condition The routes including Prozac, all now formed Not too snowy to complete all of the traverse Whole route now is perfectly formed already Ice quite brittle, but route in excellent condition
20 - 26 Dec	La Cremerie Mer de Glace Mini Couloir Trient Icefall Gorge Coyote, Cogne Vallée Blanche Cascade Lillaz Aiguille du Midi	Ice conditions are improving on the left side Access still possible via the main ladders Track reaches top of route in deep snow Gorge sector in thin state at the moment Still quite delicate, but good ice conditions Two guides rescued as not enough snow Bottom section formed, top still very thin Reopened after seasonal maintenance
14 - 19 Dec	General weather La Cremerie icefalls Patrie, Val de Cogne Gaillands crag	Warm in valley until mid month, then snow Mainly formed, thin in middle, wet on left Well formed on both the left and the right Dry and non avalanche prone until 15th
1 - 14 Dec	Midi Cable car Grands Montets Climbing Routes	Closed for seasonal maintenance for 3 weeks Cable car closed due to technical problems Not a lot going on at the moment .......
November	End of month summary LINK TO TOP OF PAGE	There still hasn't been any valley snow yet, but there was a fair amount at altitude. The cable cars are mostly shut for seasonal maintenance. The Autumn has been quite dry, so the valley icefalls are forming very slowly for this time of year.
1 - 30 Nov	All Cable Cars Climbing Routes	All closed apart from Midi & Montenvers Not a lot going on at the moment .......
October	End of month summary LINK TO TOP OF PAGE	There has been a lot of snow at altitude, and this month saw very Autumnal weather in the valley. The cable cars are mostly shut for seasonal maintenance now, and most of the shops & hotels in Chamonix are closed as it is out of season.
1 - 31 Oct	All Cable Cars Climbing Routes	All closed apart from Midi & Montenvers Not a lot going on at the moment .......
September	End of month summary LINK TO TOP OF PAGE	The weather was generally a lot better than August, and the first half of the month was very settled. At the end of the month the first winter snows started falling at altitude, and the cable cars are mostly shut for seasonal maintenance now.
19 - 30 Sept	Flegere & Index lifts Brevent & Planpraz lifts Chere Couloir, Tacul Mont Blanc Traverse Tacul, Normal Route	Cable car closed for seasonal maintenance Cable car closed for seasonal maintenance Quite dry, but possible due to recent snows Possible in early week, though very windy Very good track, but constant high winds
12 - 19 Sept	Gran Paradiso, Ridge Italian side of Mt Blanc Aiguillette d'Argentiere Traverse of Crochues Mont Blanc Gouter	Route in fine condition, and huts quiet now Better weather than Chamonix, and rock dry Rock still dry, and not very busy. Good day Only one other group on the route. All dry Climbed but in very high winds (c 80km/h)!
5 - 12 Sept	Aiguille de Beranger Mont Blanc Traverse Midi Plan Arete Cosmiques Arete, Midi Pointe Lachenal Marchand de Sable Bienvenue au Georges V Amazonia Le Piege & Pedro Polar	Glacier still fine condition, and rock all dry Excellent, good tracks, Maudit fixed rope Good track, and not too icy even near Plan Quite dry for time of year, some loose rock Chimney on traverse still has some snow in it Perfect conditions on route, but quite busy All seepage lines have dried out on the route New route has been equipped just to the side Good condition, dry rock, and not too busy
1 - 5 Sept	Frisson Roche, Brevent Rebuffat on Aig du Midi Floria, Contrefort Droite Petite Aiguille Verte Mont Blanc Traverse Mont Blanc Gouter Petit Bargy, Cluses Index, Normal Route Crochues Traverse Grands Montets lift	Route very dry, though busy in good weather Good condition & dry, but rimaye quite open The routes have all finally dried out totally Dry route, and some stonefall, but still safe Very good condition throughout the route Good, though stonefall in Gouter couloir high Routes all in dry condition. Beware of old pitons Route quite busy as in last weeks of cable car Route very dry, but glacier very icy for descent Cable car closed for seasonal maintenance
August	End of month summary LINK TO TOP OF PAGE	The first half of the month was more settled and dry, but the last two weeks saw lots of fresh snowfall and the effects of Foehn winds in the massif. The Midi cable car was effectively closed all month, though access possible from Italian cable cars.
22 - 31 August	Aiguille du Midi Dome du Gouter Mont Blanc Aiguille de Bionassay Machaby, Aoste Valley Aiguilles d'Entreves Matterhorn, Hornli Dent du Geant Aiguille du Tour Le Tour Cable Cars	Cable car reopened again at the end of August! Avalanche and serac fall just to the left of route Not possible at all due to new snow and wind Very large avalanche down northern flanks Routes all dry and popular due to good weather Good conditions, and snow has improved route Snow made route in winter conditions, hut closed Deep snow on the approach, but route possible Good conditions, some stonefall near summit Cable car closed for seasonal maintenance
15 - 22 August	Kuffner Arete, Maudit Mont Blanc Gouter Aravis Limestone Argentiere, Fleche Rousse Mont Blanc, Traverse Traverse of Crochues Index Cable Car Gran Paradiso, Normal	Impossible to ascend due to wind and foehn Good, though stonefall in Gouter couloir high All the routes dry and in good conditions Glacier was very open on the approach to route Too much snow to even consider the route A little coating of snow on the route throughout Closed for majority of week due to high winds Lots of fresh snow on route, to base of glacier
8 - 15 August	Frisson Roche, Brevent Dent du Geant Aiguilles d'Entreves Petite Aig Verte Domes du Miages Montets-Lognan traverse Mont Blanc, Traverse G Jorasses, Italian Side Mont Dolent, Normal	Very good route, and not too busy. Rock is dry Cold and windy on summit, but good conditions No rockfall at all on route, so in safe condition Stonefall risk on both routes, and little snow left Good conditions throughout, with some ice now Almost no snow left now. Steep initial descent Now safe due to new route up Tacul on left side Very good conditions up to the Pointe Walker Snow in OK condition, and no rockfall nearby
1- 8 August	Aiguille du Midi Helbronner Lift Aig de Bionassay Monte Rosa region Kuffner Arete, Maudit Chapelle du la Gliere Mont Blanc, Gouter Drus & Nant Blanc Face Mont Blanc, Traverse	Cable car broken again, scheduled to open end Aug This is open, as is Gondola, for access to Aig du Midi Good condition in traverse from Durier to Gouter SAFETY - fresh snow, so avalanche risk very high Snow still in OK condition throughout the route All route is dry, and now quieter than last month In very good conditions, due to cold clear nights Rockfall near Pic Sans Nom, as face is very dry now Difficult section on Tacul over crevasse & under serac
July	End of month summary LINK TO TOP OF PAGE	Really mixed weather this year, with an unseasonally large amount of snow at altitude, which has raised avalanche risks far higher than normal. Midi cable car now open, which has given easy access in periods of good weather.
25 - 31 July	Aiguille d'Argentiere South Ridge of Moine Gran Paradiso, Normal Gran Paradiso, N Face Cherie Couloir Cosmiques Arete Traverse of Crochues Mont Blanc, Gouter Ciaforon, North Face	Y-Couloir very good, Milieu Glacier difficult to cross Very good condition, and route is all dry and safe Route still in OK condition, despite being very hot Out of condition now, and Chabot glacier very open Good conditions, though thin sections in middle Very good condition throughout the route Quite busy, due to start of key French holidays Some stonefall now in couloir, so be very careful Exposed to frequent stonefall due to weeks heat
18 - 25 July	Hornli Arete, Matterhorn Dent du Geant Rochefort Arete Montets Ridge of Verte Castor & Pollux Midi Plan Traverse Monte Rosa Region Chapelle de la Gliere Liskaam West Peak Lion & Hornli, Matterhorn Mont Blanc Traverse	Hornli Refuge closed due to more snow & avalanche Approach mixed climb still in very good conditions Double cornices make traverse very interesting now Climbed over two days in quite snowy weather Snow starting to stabalise, especially on Castor Now the traverse is in much better / safer condition There is a lot of snow in the West, less in the East Route very busy, due to bad weather at altitude Ascent OK. Traverse impossible due to snow amount Full traverse of the mountain made in early week First ascents made since avalanche 2 weeks ago
11- 18 July	Mont Blanc Traverse Machaby, Italy Hornli Arete, Matterhorn Petite Aiguille Verte Aiguille Joseph Gouter, Mont Blanc Climbing World Cup Banff Mountain Films	No ascents made due to persisting avalanche risk Rock all dry, even though weather bad on Mont Blanc Ascent made to Solvay, but through very deep snow Good condition, but getting busy due to high season Very quiet, but routes all dry and good conditions Still good condition, but use safety cable in couloir Finals on Bastille eve, with final competitors winning Wide range of mountain films, shown for free in Cham
4 - 11 July	Gran Paradiso Normal Route, Tacul Castor, Monte Rosa SAFETY NOTE Cosmiques Arete, Midi Midi Plan Traverse Aiguille du Midi SAFETY NOTE	Good conditions all the way to the summit Major wind slab avalanche near shoulder. 2 dead Deep snow. 5 dead in fall from steep section of route People aren't respecting the amount of fresh snow Much busier now Midi is open, but in good condition Still a lot of unconsolidated snow on route Finally opened ahead of scheduled 16 July date Wind slab avalanches are a high risk this week
1- 4 July	Mont Mallet Traverse Traverse Vallee Blanche Gervasutti Pillar, Tacul Dent du Requin Dalles d'Envers Aig de Republique Charmoz Grepon Normal, Aiguille de l'M	Very good conditions, especially down to Leschaux Well tracked as Midi closed, and Helbronner open First ascent made this summer in good weather Ascent made by the classic traverse route. Dry Most routes now dry, but relatively quiet climbs Approach difficult due to complicated rimaye crossing Couloir approach still very snowy, but route great Plenty of snow up to the col, then the rock is dry
June	End of month summary LINK TO TOP OF PAGE	Weather was very stable in the middle of the month, but unstable either side. Windspeeds at altitude have been high, but a lot of routes have really been in the prime of their summer condition this month, especially snow routes.
25 - 30 June	Traverse of Mont Blanc Petite Bargy, Cluses Kuffner Ridge, Maudit Aiguilles d'Entreves La Floria, Aig Rouges North Face, Tour Ronde Chevalier, P Aig Verte	Cold temperatures and quite windy, but good snow Rock still snowy at base, but dry higher up route Still in condition, but snow soft due to the warmth Traverse route OK condition, now snow has receeded New routes have been fully bolted on this mountain Rimaye collapsed, making access to face harder Route already dry / very mixed, for the rest of season
19 - 25 June	Traverse of Crochues North Face, Tour Ronde Gervasutti, T.Ronde Moine Arete, Aig Verte Normal, Gran Paradiso Pointe Isabella NNE Arete, Aig de l'M Demilune, P Aig Verte	Popular route due to good weather at end of week Good conditions, mid mixed section quite easy now Good and stable condition now, though warm days Mixed regions very snowy, but easy to climb across Glacier still in very good condition, unlike last year! Easy route has now been found through the rimaye Route climbed by gaining access from Montenvers No problems on route, even with recent snowfalls
12 - 19 June	Mont Blanc, Gouter Nid d'Aigle Dent du Geant Barberine Aiguille de Bionassay Moulin, Mer de Glace Clochetons du Planpraz	Snowy in couloir, no rock fall, perfect conditions Station finally cleared of snow and reopened on Fri Renewed sections of rope make the ascent safer Rock now dried out and Vipers route quite busy Good conditions throughout the ridge, snowy mixed Canyon shape this year, & great for ice climbing Dry rock, and quiet as it is still pre holiday season
5 - 12 June	Shroud, Grand Jorasses Rochefort Arete Whymper, Aiguille Verte S Arete of the Moine Pyramide du Tacul Kuffner Ridge, Maudit Les Courtes, Traverse Pointe Isabella	Steep and thin entry chimneys, then icy throughout No recent tracks, and a lot of spring snow on route Slightly icy in the middle, but still in OK condition One chimney very icy, but otherwise quite dry Small rockfall on right of route, but didn't affect climb Completely on snow, and in very safe condtions Quite snowy, but route is in great condition this year Rimaye very difficult for clients trying this grade route
1- 5 June	Mont Blanc, traverse Mont Maudit, N. Face Whymper Couloir, Verte Gervasutti, T.Ronde Mont Blanc, G Mulets North Face of T. Ronde Couloir de Table, Tour Tacul, Voie Normale Brevent rock climbing	Deep snow, but ascent made with no problems Great conditions, 20m abseil to descend rimaye Perfect and icy, quick ascent, rimaye quite big Avalanche down couloir, so still very snowy Good conditions for ski decents of north face Very good condition and icy throughout route Lots of snow. Snowshoes not needed for approach Much more direct route up face than last summer Wear big boots as there is still lots of snow here
May	End of month summary LINK TO TOP OF PAGE	Lots of snow up high at the start of month, then intermittent good weather from mid May onwards as summer approaches. The Midi cable car broke its main lower cable, but no one was injured. This is forecast to reopen at the end of June.
9 - 31 May	Aiguille du Midi cable car All other cable cars Climbing / Skiing	Cable Car broke main cable during maintenance Scheduled seasonal closure period No reports as all cable cars closed until mid June
1 - 9 May	Aiguille du Midi cable car	Closed for seasonal maintenance
April	End of month summary LINK TO TOP OF PAGE	Still no new snow at the start of the month meant a very early ski ascent of Mont Blanc was made, but just before all the ski lifts shut until summer, there was lots of snow at all levels. The snow falls continued until the end of the month.
25 - 30 April	Lifts Closing	La Tour, Brevent, & Flegere lifts closed until mid June
18 - 25 April	Spring Snow up high	No climbs or off piste / ski touring reported
11 - 18 April	Bad weather all week	No climbs or off piste / ski touring reported
4 - 11 April	North Face, Mont Blanc	Descent on skis possible, very early this year
1 - 4 April	Mont Blanc, G Mulets Arete de Papillons Argentiere Icefalls	First winter ski ascent this year, by 12 people No snow on route, but rock was still very cold Major section of Grand Bleu collapsed this week
March	End of month summary LINK TO TOP OF PAGE	The ice climbing season ended at the end of the month, but not a lot of new snow meant that black ice reappeared on some of the altitude mountaineering routes. Ski touring season now in full swing, and conditions are good & stable.
21 - 31 March	Haute Route Ski Tour SAFETY NOTE Cremerie Icefalls Table de Roc ridge Traverse or Chardonnet	Conditions good near Zermatt, Chamonix quite icy Most ice climbs out of condition & unsafe now Most fractured, especially on right, and unstable Little snow on route, so ascent was quite quick Route out of condition, black ice on the Bosses
14 - 21 March	3 windows ski tour Couloir de Table Index, Aig Rouges Gaillands On Piste Skiing Gervasutti Pillar, Tacul Trient Icefalls	Chardonnet quite steep, but all OK condition Very snowy, but ski descent possible Very little snow on route, as always in the sun No snow in the valley, so rock climbers out now Pistes below 2000m have no snow on them at all Rock warmer and dry, so 3 parties on the route Good conditions found in the gorge section
7 - 14 March	Repentance, WI 6 Cascade Lillaz Cold Couloir, Cogne Gran Paradiso on skis Thierry Rebufat route	Good condition, but early start needed (5am) Has come back into safe, but thin condition Great conditions all the way up the gully to top Via the Chabot glacier, though it was quite open In very good condition, and easy access on skis
1 - 7 March	Cremerie Icefalls Cosmique Arete South Face of Midi Frendo Spur Traverse of Chardonnet Charmoz-Grepon	Ice a but rotten now and not in good state Very snowy, but tracked to base of the route Rock routes busy and the rock is now dry Not possible above the rock pillar due to black ice Black ice before the Bosses, so not possible Winter traverse possible due to lack of snow
February	End of month summary LINK TO TOP OF PAGE	This month was the best so far this winter for ice climbing with lots in condition, though the valley / low icefalls eg Chatelard never formed safely this year. Winter mountain routes all in good condition, and off piste skiing is good.
22 - 29 Feb	Argentiere Icefalls Patrie, Cogne N Face of Petite Verte Y Route, Aig Argentiere	Right bank icefalls, eg Shiva, are all fractured now Approach pitches are brittle, upper is still good Nice route, with ice in quite good condition Quite thin, but good condition of snow and ice
15 - 22 Feb	EMHM Icefall Cervina Off Piste VB right bank Gressoney icefalls Matterhorn Patey Brown, Verte Whymper Couloir, Verte Shiva Lingam, WI 6	Good condition, as was Micro Goulotte route All in good condition, with low avalanche risk Black Bowl route perfect, with no tracks All routes in condition, right down to the valley Winter ascent possible by the Hornli Arete Winter ascent made, ice in bad condition In good condition, descended in 45 minutes! A solo ascent was made, and abseil down route
8 - 15 Feb	Cremerie Icefalls Nuit Blanche, WI 6 Deferlante Tour Ronde, Gervasutti EMHM Icefall, WI 4 Vallee Blanche Fil a Plomb, Midi	All sections are in good state, including main wall Top section quite thin, but OK on toprope Very good condition, as was Mini Couloir Good route now in condition. Ski descent possible Very good, but very popular this week Now in a very good and safe condition, all routes Approach hard in snow, but route in great form
1 - 8 Feb	Aiguillete des Houches Col du Tour Noir Tubourg WI 5, Cogne Petite Verte La Tour Petit Viking Mallory Route, Midi	Ski Tour route on good snow right down to village Ski Mountaineering on deep snow to the col Good ice, has formed steep this season OK condition, though quite icy on the ridge Off piste skiing great off back of La Tour Great conditions throughout the route Route not possible due to the lack of snow on it
January	End of month summary LINK TO TOP OF PAGE	Ice conditions were quite mixed, but good ice could easily be found. Quite a lot of black ice on altitude routes, which is still the after effects of last summer. Latest opening of Vallee Blanche in recent memory, as snow took a while to build up.
25 - 31 Jan	Nuit Blanche, WI 6 Candelabro Coyotte Tutto Relativo, Cogne Gressoney Gressoney Icefalls Cosmiques Arete Vallee Blanche Ridge	Good condition especially two top pitches Good ice, but quite hard this year Has now formed better as is in safe condition Ski Mountaineering in great conditions now All in good condition, especially Grade 5 & above Quite snowy and very cold, but still possible Finally there is enough snow, & ridge is equiped
18 - 25 Jan	Trient Icefalls La Tour Cascade Lillaz, Cogne Tutto Relativo, Cogne Patrie Icefalls, Cogne Lillaz Gully, Cogne Chamonix - General	Brittle ice, and not well formed. Snowy approach Very big avalanche off back of La Tour to Trient Good condition, first pitch possible to lead now Very thin near base, but possible to climb Very good conditions on left and right Good conditions throughout the climb Heavy snow all week, so no good climbing
11 - 18 Jan	Cascade Lillaz, Cogne Cold Couloir, Cogne Mini Couloir, Argentiere North Face, Tour Ronde Modica Noury Supercouloir, Tacul Jager Couloir, Tacul Goulotte Cosmiques	Big pool at bottom of the first pitch, avoid to left Swept by avalanches about twice a day Very thin on top pitch - dry tooling. Good day Black ice makes the route impossible Bergschrund difficult, but route in good condition Very thin, but possible to the top of the route Good condition throughout. Ice plastic & good Very dry, so aid rather than ice on steep pitches
4 - 11 Jan	Grand Bleu & Twins Cosmiques Arete EMHM Cascade Patrie, Val de Cogne Mer de Glace Shiva Lingam, WI 6 Deferlante Cherie Couloir	Very good condition, though approach hard Good track up to the Abri Simond hut Now in good condition, with plastic type ice Good condition, though early start to avoid crowds Ice climb in Moulin - dry as no water flowing First ascent of the season this week Fully formed and in good condition, and wide The whole route is covered in thin black ice
1 - 4 Jan	EMHM Cascade, WI 4 Cremerie, Argentiere Mer de Glace Reposoir Icefalls Aiguilles Rouges Index Arete	Good condition, though a bit brittle on the steps Covered in a thick layer of snow, but good ice Starting to get a good cover for Vallee Blanche Excellent condition mid week, melting by Friday Good ski mountaineering conditions on back Ascent by the normal route in winter conditions