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| Training
preparations and the basics |
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| Links:IntroductionTraining
preparations Types
of exerciseTraining
planners |
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Assessing
the correct level of course fitness
Each course has a graphic at the
top of the page that indicates the fitness and stamina level
required for each course, on a five point scale. To assess what
each level assumes as a level of fitness, see the table below.
These levels of fitness aren't to scare you, but so you can
self assess if you are fit enough for your course.
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Level 1
- e.g. Chamonix Intro Via Ferrata
This is the lowest level for any of our courses, and we
would suggest that a 5km run would not pose you any issues.
Obviously, even though this is the lowest grade, you should
be capable of long days out on the hills, and not get
to tired from this.
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Level
2 -
e.g.
Acclimatisation Weekends, Winter Skills, Snowshoeing,
Off Piste
We suggest that people on courses of this grade can run
10km without a problem, but we stress that for courses
of this level you do not need to be any fitter than this
minimum level, though it is there to ensure a good basic
level or aerobic fitness and training.
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Level
3
- e.g.
Tech Ice & Classics, Chamonix Ice & Gullies, Mount
Elbrus
At this level your fitness should be somewhere between
running a fast paced 10km run, and half marathon fitness.
Typically you'll enjoy more hill training, and so would
be able to run for about an hour and a half of cross country,
and enjoy big hill days out too.
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Level
4
- e.g.
Mont Blanc Summits, Ama Dablam, Matterhorn, Haute Route
Ski Tour
As an absolute minimum you should be capable of running
a half marathon in a good time (under 1hr 45mins), but
realistically you should be looking at marathon fitness
for all courses of this fitness and stamina level to ensure
your endurance is up to standard.
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Level
5
- e.g.
Grandes Jorasses, Winter Matterhorn, Ski Tour up Mont
Blanc
Only a few of our courses are marked at this level, where
the required minimum fitness level is that of being capable
of running a marathon, though it must be stressed that
the duration of time that you are exercising for on the
course, will be of a greater duration. |
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Preparing for your course
One
of the most ignored aspects of mountaineering is the training
required for the sport. A classic example is people looking
on a map to see the height gain on a summit day, and for Mont
Blanc it is 1300m. People then equate this to walking up Ben
Nevis (same height gain), and blaming any problems on lack of
acclimatisation. To put it bluntly the courses have been designed
by professionals to maximise your acclimatisation, and if you
struggle it is your lack of training that is at fault, not us.
A fitter person acclimatises easier, and their body is better
prepared to work at maximum outputs for a long time, or where
there is less oxygen. Added into this are the factors of walking
in snow on crampons, and carrying a rucksack. This page outlines
how to prepare yourself in the best manner possible, as it is
clear that the better prepared you are, the more you will get
out of the course.
Muscle groups & aerobic efficiency
The most efficient exercise for mountaineering
is either mountaineering itself, or at least types of exercise
that develop the key muscle groups and aerobic fitness at a
similar level. Except on very difficult climbs, the main muscle
group that will be used are in the quadraceps (thighs), and
the oxygen demand by this muscle group is high, requiring a
good level of aerobic efficiency. For this reason weight training
in a gym is far less effective than running, as your muscle
capacity can only grow if the aerobic output can meet the demand.
Where there is a shortfall, lactic acid is produced and you
will feel what athletes call the 'burn'.
Recommendations
Our recommendation for the majority of
our courses, is that you should be running for 45 minutes at
least three times a week for the months before the course. Many
people try using the excuse that their joints get sore with
running. Often this is because people are overweight, and so
stress the joints anyway, but here are another couple of options
for you to consider trying: 1) Run on soft surfaces such as
grass, as it is easier on the joints and harder for muscles.
2) Go cycling but ensure there are lots of hills, & go for
2 hours at a time, not 45 minutes. When you are truthful to
yourself you probably know that currently you are not training
enough at the moment, and excuses such as 'not enough time for
training', are due to bad time management and lack of prioritisation.
Everyone leads a busy life, and if you don't get out training,
it is you and your course that may suffer. Excuses are a big
sign of weakness! Someone actually once wrote to complain about
these last two sentences. They clearly had enough time for unecessary
e-mails, but not enough time for training. |
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Diet
& Hydration
Carbohydrates are foods that release
energy easily, and should only be eaten before exercise (not
after, or before bed). If you eat lots of carbohydrates without
exercising you will put on weight. The food you eat must provide
you with the energy levels you require, as well as sufficient
levels of protein and fats. It is imperative that you keep
hydrated during your training, or your performance level will
drop significantly. This is especially important to monitor
when on your course, as you will be exercising hard at altitude.
Training to avoid
As well as advising you what training
is good for you, there are a few things to avoid... Too often
we hear tales of people whose training involved packing a
heavy rucksack and slogging over a hill. Trainers call this
resistance training, but for Alpine preparation it is useless.
It will encourage you to bulk out muscle groups for carrying
heavy loads, not that you ever carry heavy loads in the Alps
at altitude. The secondary effect is that these non required
muscle groups will burn even more oxygen, which is rare enough
at altitude, and so acclimatisation will be affected. The
tertiary effect of resistance training is the potential damage
to your back and posture that carrying heavy loads does to
you. Getting a slipped disc a month before your trip to the
Alps isn't ideal. Just remember that all good Alpinists tend
to be lean and very fit, not heavy set and very muscled.
Climbing training
Many people now have an indoor climbing
wall close to them, and this should be seen as an addition
to your aerobic training regime rather than a substitute for
one of the training sessions. The most efficient way to use
a wall is to warm up carefully, then to climb several routes
medium difficulty for you, one after another, like circuit
training in order to give you an aerobic workout. Then progress
onto hard climbs to test and develop you, and at the end don't
forget to warm down. Why not run to and from the wall to combine
your training?
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A
word of encouragement
We know how hard it can be to follow
a training planner. Don't think for one minute we aren't
aware what we are asking you to do. We've all been there
before, driving home in the dark in the rain with the
prospect of a one hour run ahead, putting on wet trainers
that haven't dried from the day before, setting off on
a run with a hangover from a party. The key to following
a planner is twofold; firstly enjoying the training, and
secondly achieving goals along the way. To enjoy the training
do whatever you need to stop being negative about it;
get good footwear and clothing, or put your favourite
music on your iPod. Make sure you are comfy and not bored.
Trudging round the block in trainers with heels that rub
and a jacket that leaks isn't fun. The training planners
are all for several weeks, so why not consider entering
a race as a half way goal to keep up the motivation. If
you are building towards half marathon fitness, do a 10km
race about a month into the planner. Look at the Runners
World website to find an event close
to you. Others train to lose weight as well as to gain
fitness, so if you are putting all the effort in, get
sponsored to lose the pounds or to run a race. Time your
regular running routes, and try to beat the times, and
do whatever keeps you happy and motivates you. Really
good luck! |
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