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Chamonix Technical Ice 2026
Chamonix based | 5 days 1:2 guide ratio | Winter ice climbing routes
Course overview
This course gives you the chance to climb some of the best ice or Alpine routes in winter. If you want to devote every daylight hour to climbing some of the best ice that Europe has on offer, this course is the one for you.
To join this course you should have some previous experience of ice climbing such as a summer or winter intro level course, so you are competant with basic ropework and the use of ice axe and crampons.

The course is aimed at those looking to develop their ice climbing, on routes graded between Grade II to IV ice. Sometimes you may even be able to climb Grade V ice (e.g. single pitch top roped) on this course.

During the week you have many route options, from long multi-pitch waterfall ice or gully routes, to shorter more technical routes. You also have the opportunity to learn to lead on ice.
Chamonix valley has over 300 icefalls, and within an hours drive you can reach an additional 1000 icefalls in Italy or Switzerland. A competitor wrote in a newsletter that they "made the best of some thin conditions", which is laughable as there is always good ice in the Alps. It is just a case of knowing where to find it!
Dates: these are listed in the column on the right, and they show the live availability from our secure online booking system. When you book online, you receive immediate confirmation, your Alpine Information Booklet, course specific kit list and invoice.
Bespoke: if the scheduled dates don't suit, and there are two of you, we can operate an bespoke course just for you on any date at the same course price. Get in contact with your prefered dates.

Skills, tips & techniques
Ensure that your fitness is good for this course, as the approaches to icefalls or ice gully climbs can be tiring in deeper untracked or fresh snow. In terms of training, good aerobic fitness is the key element.
On icefalls twin axes with curved shafts are ideal, to give your hands clearance on bulges in the ice. For gully routes, more straight shafted axed are ideal, as they can be plunged into hard snow for traction.

The guide supplies all the safety protection equipment, so there’s no need for you to bring any ropes, ice screws, or protection kit, though if you have some of your own take it along on the course with you.

In terms of crampons, for icefall routes then technical crampons are ideal, though sharp 12 point crampons are fine too. For gully routes, 12 point crampons are generally best, as they shed any snow that balls beneath.
During the course, there are a series of evening instruction sessions (optional), where you are taught some of the more theoretical aspects that are easier to learn inside, rather than on the hill.
When ice climbing there is a vast amount that you can be taught. Below is a selection of skills to cover;
 
How to place ice screws Assessing safety of icefalls Abseil systems & backup
Building ice anchors Avalanche awareness Using crampons & axes
Ropework for multi-pitch Selection of kit for ice climbs Ice climbing techniques

Brief Course Itinerary

Day 1 | Sunday
Travel to Chamonix. Accommodation check in at 17:00. Course specific mountain safety and itinerary briefing at 17:30. There is time for kit checks or fitting rental equipment after. Briefings are over by 18:30 and then you are free to go out for dinner / drinks. Many clients opt to travel out a day or two early to start their acclimatisation at Aiguille du Midi or with a night in a mountain hut (e.g. Cosmiques or Torino). Night in Chamonix.


Gallery: Chamonix town
Day 2 | Monday
A key feature of this course is that you have 5 days of 1:2 guiding, so can climb multi-pitch ice routes every day. Normally people use the first day to refresh ice climbing skills on valley waterfall ice, such as on Cremerie icefalls. There is also a chance to practice placing ice screws, building anchors and even some leading if the guide considers it safe on the day. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Night in Chamonix.

Gallery: Chamonix ice climbing
Day 3 | Tuesday
Popular climbs include Deferlante, EMHM and Cascade du Tour. These are all good multi-pitch ice routes. Deferlante is positioned impressively above the Argentiere glacier icefall, and you hear seracs far below you. The EMHM icefall is named after the military mountain school in Chamonix, who first climbed it. Cascade du Tour is spectacularly located below Glacier du Tour. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Night in Chamonix.

Gallery: Deferlante icefall climbing
Day 4 | Wednesday
You could tackle another of the options outlined yesterday, or other ideas that are the most popular include the Trient icefalls which are accessed from the Col du Forclaz, and are just over the border into Switzerland. These have a walk in that is less than an hour, and there is a choice of longer multi-pitch routes, or shorter more technical routes in the gorge sector. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Night in Chamonix.

Gallery: Mini Couloir icefall climbing
Day 5 | Thursday
Options to consider for today include Mini Couloir above the Argentiere glacier, Frigor at Chatelard, or Micro Couloir on the Col des Montets. These routes all really vary in terms of their style, from mixed corners to freestanding columns, and a gully route. As you will have discovered by now, there is such an amazing choice of routes, you are spoilt for choice each day. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Night in Chamonix.

Gallery: Chamonix Tech Ice course
Day 6 | Friday
Today is your last day of guiding, and some options include the ice climbs at Reposoir near the Col de la Colombiere, or the Trient or Arveyron gorges icefalls. Again your guide will outline the options with you, and you can decide together which style and grade of routes appeal to you most. It's your last evening in Chamonix, so you may wish to go out for drinks and a celebratory meal. Night in Chamonix.

Gallery: Megeve ice climbing routes
Day 7 | Saturday
Breakfast then the accommodation check out by 10:00. Most arrange transfers for around this time for a flight from Geneva about midday. Some opt to book a tandem paraglider flight in the morning, or to go rafting, mountain biking, or trail running, if you still have the energy! Our resort team can advise you on where to arrange any of this, or routes. For those departing late, bags can be stored during the day. Depart for home.

Gallery: Icicle Windermere office
ITINERARY NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain adventures are weather and conditions dependant, so occasionaly we are forced to alter the plans. If this is the case, suitable alternatives are offered. Please use this itinerary as a guide to the types of route / activity you attempt.
Ice climbing on Deferlante, far above the Argentiere Glacier icefalls
Course Prices
Standard course 5 days IFMGA guiding, 1:2 max ratio
7 days holiday in total, Sunday-Saturday
£1925
Live availability Click on the planner logo to the right to
see the real time live course availability
Latest Availability
How to book Secure payments, bonded tour operator
Details of how to book
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Book online
Standard Course Inclusions
1) Hand picked IFMGA Mountain Guide(s), for 5 days of 1:2 ratio climbing
2) Chamonix course hosts for briefings, logistics, expert advice, and support
3) Pre course information dossier, with training plans and specific kit lists
4) Safety briefing on the first evening, with latest updates and weather reports
5) Equipment discount voucher for our Windermere mountain shop / online
6) Accommodation (room only) in Chamonix for 6 nights, in apartment / hotel
7) Road transport with your guide within the Chamonix valley
8) Free 36 page technical Course Instruction Booklet of Alpine safety skills
Exclusions: 1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Equipment hire, 3) Cable cars & uplift for you, and your guide (if required), 4) Lunches & snacks for during the days, 5) Road transport outside Chamonix valley, 6) Breakfasts and evening meals in Chamonix, & any purchases in mountain huts, 7) Activities insurance.
Notes: This course assumes 1:2 guiding throughout. Note that is there is just one person on a course, less 1:1 guiding days can be offered, however accommodation will be provided for the whole week, and guiding options and locations will be discussed with you within the budget paid.
Standard course accommodation - normally clients are based in self-catered flats (details), so take a look, and decide if it's for you. For more luxury, contact us for quotes in higher standard apartments, or hotels of any standard required. If you have / source your own course accommodation, or we cannot provide an upgrade, the standard course price has a £200pp reduction applied on your invoice.
Current course availability

Course Dates
Cham Technical Ice
  • [ 2 ] 22 - 28 Feb 2026
  • [ 1 ] 1 - 7 Mar 2026
  • [ 2 ] 8 - 14 Mar 2026
NOTE: This trip has scheduled
dates, but if there are two who
are booking together, it can be
operated on any date you wish
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Price: £1925 Book online

Alternative courses
Technical Ice & Classics
Winter Alpine Intro course
Val de Cogne Italian Ice
Winter Alpine Classics

Client feedback


A brilliant week, with superb routes every day. Could not have believed how much I improved, and I was so glad not to have Scottish style walk ins

George J , Technical Ice

A perfect week for me to really develop my skills on ice, and become confident with it as a medium, after so many years on rock

Dawn B , Technical Ice


It's two weeks on, and my shoulders and arms still know about it. I know it's because I didn't trust my feet enough yet, but it serves to remind me what a brilliant week I had

Julie S , Technical Ice

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Location data for this trip
The trips are based in the Chamonix valley in the French Alps, at the foot of Mont Blanc. It is easily accessed via a 90 minute transfer from Geneva airport.
Time Difference
GMT +1hr
Local Currency
€ Euros
Travel from UK
1hr flight
Pro top tips - geeks corner!
Suggested reading and kit
View full course equipment list, with examples of kit, click here
Why choose our trips?
See our Alpine blog, by clicking on the Word-press logo to the right.
Icicle Blog
Itinerary flexibility to allow you to take full advantage of the weather windows on any day, to maximise your summit chances.
Our prices are fixed in £ Sterling, to protect you from euro fluctuations, so you can budget accurately.
There is a choice of routes to opt for, depending on the weather, conditions, and your experience.
Any further questions?
A key part of choosing a company is being able to come and talk about your plans with an experienced course advisor face to face. In an increasingly virtual world, we know our clients value speaking to real people, getting open and honest advice. The vast majority of our clients are British, and our office and outdoor store is based in Windermere in the English Lake District.



Get in contact to arrange a meeting, and come in for a coffee to discuss your course in person with a trip advisor. Many people opt for this service, and it is an integral part of what we offer, as we are keen to ensure that you are prepared as possible, and that you select a course that is suitable for you. It makes it easier and more enjoyable for you and us, if you are on the right trip.


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