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                      | In 
                        the UK we have a very different grading system to the 
                        Alps, so many people are very unsure what grade of routes 
                        that they could safely attempt in the Alps. This article 
                        attempt to unravel some of the shroud of mystery from 
                        the grading systems, and also to explain what the various 
                        notations in Alpine guidebooks mean. Please do not attempt 
                        to use any of the grade tables to do direct translations 
                        between the UK and the Alps, because it doesn't work. 
                        For example, if you can climb a section of vertical ice 
                        in the UK, the table indicates that you are climbing an 
                        Alpine ED grade, when in fact you might only be capable 
                        of an Alpine PD grade. Use this table with care. Ultimately 
                        there is no substitute for going to the Alps, and to start 
                        climbing routes to build up your experience. Just remember 
                        that there is no rush, and that the routes will still 
                        be there when you have built up enough experience to tackle 
                        them safely. |   
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                      | Alpine 
                          Grades are selected from many factors, including the 
                          technical difficulty, commitment, protection, and condition. 
                          Needless to say, each of these factors are influenced 
                          by many more subsections, as shown below; Technical 
                          Difficulty; the technical grade of the crux 
                          pitch, or the climb as a whole. The technical difficulties 
                          always have by far the greatest influence on the grade 
                          a climb is given.
 Commitment / Seriousness; 
                          the length of the route, the exposure you have to objective 
                          dangers (avalanche, rockfall, etc), the quality of the 
                          ice or rock, and the degree of remoteness of the route 
                          (especially with regards to potential retreat or rescue). 
                          On long or multi day climbs the possibility of benightment 
                          or getting caught in a storm or running out of food 
                          can also influence the grade.
 
 Protection; this only really 
                          affects the grade when the climb is hard to protect, 
                          such as having lots of loose rock. Equally on some popular 
                          climbs all the belays are equiped, which makes it easy 
                          to retreat if necessary. If there is generally good 
                          protection, but say one spare section, this will usually 
                          be noted in the guidebook.
 Conditions; 
                          the effects of altitude or prevailing bad conditions 
                          for a route generally give it a slightly easier grading 
                          than in perfect conditions at sea level.
 It is normal practice for the first person who ascends 
                          a route, to declare a grade for it, and for second ascensionists 
                          to confirm (or adjust) the grade. All routes change 
                          over time, and whilst this is evident over a few hours 
                          on an ice climb, it is equally true for a rock climb 
                          where holds break and get polished. Therefore treat 
                          all grades with a big pinch of salt, as they are massively 
                          subjective, but do not ignore them altogether. I would 
                          be bancrupt if I had given a penny to everyone I had 
                          heard saying "the guidebook said it was a grade 
                          III, but in these conditons it was at least a V+", 
                          but it is not often you hear the quote the other way 
                          around, effectively downgrading a route. To me this 
                          is a classic example of an obsession with grades, that 
                          many climbers have. Grades are useful as advice, and 
                          for training, but to not become too focused on them 
                          or you will loose track of why you enjoy climbing. The 
                          best advice I ever got was "there are two grades; 
                          possible, and not-possible".
 
 Alpine Grades
 Given that grading routes is such a subjective task, 
                          do not be surprised to see the same route in different 
                          guidebooks with a different grade. Below is a table 
                          of the grading system that you will encounter when reading 
                          Alpine guidebooks. The letters (PD, AD, etc) can be 
                          applied to any type of climb, whether rock, ice or snow. 
                          I have given some examples of popular routes (mainly 
                          in the Mont Blanc massif) in each category, and an outline 
                          of the inclination of snow / ice, and the rock grades. 
                          Both of these are explained in more detail below the 
                          table.
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                            | Grade | UIAA 
                                Rock | Snow 
                                / Ice |   
                            | F | Facile 
                                (Easy) | I | Walk 
                                Up |   
                            | Dômes 
                                de Miages traverse F/PDMont Blanc, Grands Mulets F/PD
 Aiguille du Tour, East Face Normal Route F+/PD-
 Grandes Montets East Face F+/PD-
 |   
                            | PD | Peu 
                                Difficile (Little Difficult) | II | 35°/45° |   
                            | Petite 
                                Aiguille Verte, Ordinary Route F+/PD- (one move 
                                III)Mont Blanc, Goûter Ridge PD- (II,40°)
 Mont Blanc du Tacul, Ordinary Route (NW Face) 
                                PD-
 Mont Blanc, Three Mont Blanc -route PD+ (>45°)
 |   
                            | AD | Assez 
                                Difficile (Quite Difficult) | III | 40°/55° |   
                            | Aiguille 
                                du Midi, Arete des Cosmiques PD+/AD (IV/Aid)Matterhorn, Hörnligrat AD- (III)
 Dent du Géant, Normal Route (SW Face) AD 
                                (III;V)
 Aiguille Verte, Whymper Couloir AD+ (55°)
 |   
                            | D | Difficile 
                                (Difficult) | IV-V | 50°/70° |   
                            | Mont 
                              Blanc, Brenva Spur D- Tour Ronde, North Face D- (52°)
 Mont Blanc du Tacul, Chere Couloir D-/D (75°, 
                              Scottish 4)
 Aiguille du Midi, Frendo Spur D+ (V,55°)
 |   
                            | TD | Très 
                                Difficile (Very Difficult) | V+-IV | 65°/80° |   
                            | Aiguille 
                              du Plan, North Face Direct TD- (IV,60°) Mont Maudit, Cretier Route TD- (IV+)
 Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, South Ridge TD (V+,A0;VI)
 Petit Dru, Bonatti Pillar TD+ (V+,A1)
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                            | ED | Extrêment 
                                Difficile (Extremely Difficult) | VI+ 
                                - VIII-/aid | - 
                                90° |   
                            | Mont 
                              Blanc, Peuterey Integral TD+/ED1 Grandes Jorasses, Croz Spur TD+/ED1 (V+,60°)
 Mont Blanc, Central Pillar of Frêney ED1 (VI,A1;VIII/VIII+)
 Petit Dru, American Direct ED1
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                      | Rock 
                        Climbing Grades Almost every country in the world has its own rock grading 
                        system, and some (like the UK) have several. It would 
                        take years to explain them all, but here are some pointers 
                        to watch out for. Some grading systems are only concerned 
                        with the technical difficulty of overcoming the hardest 
                        move on a climb (irrespective of if it is one foot of 
                        the ground or 1000 feet up), whilst others consider the 
                        overall sustained grade of the route, or the ability to 
                        protect the route in event of a fall. It is fairly meaningless 
                        to produce a table to "translate" grades from 
                        one country to another. As far as the rock grades in the 
                        Alps, it is normal for routes in the valley to get stiffer 
                        grades than in the mountains, even if the climbs were 
                        identical. In the guidebooks you will see arabic numbers 
                        (5+, 6, etc) used for valley crag grades, and their exact 
                        equivalent in roman numerals (V+, VII, etc) for mountain 
                        rock routes. If you have only every climbed valley routes 
                        before, then you should only consider mountain routes 
                        a few levels under your normal grade. For example if you 
                        climb grade 6 routes in the valley, a mountain IV+ will 
                        be quite enough for a first experience of altitude Alpine 
                        climbing. In no way is this meant to patronise, but you 
                        cannot compare toproping a sport (bolted) route at sea 
                        level wearing rock shoes, with a route at altitude, wearing 
                        heavier clothing and maybe mountain boots, as well as 
                        carrying a rucksack.
 
 Ice 
                        Climbing Grades
 Because ice is extremely ever changing medium highly depending 
                        on weather conditions, rating ice climbs is very difficult 
                        a task. Thus any ice climbing grades are for reference 
                        and getting the idea of the climb only, they are substantially 
                        less trustworthy than rock grades.
 WI 
                          Water Ice, hard ice formed from water.MI Mountain Ice, softer porous ice formed from snow 
                          under high pressure.
 M Mixed, both rock and ice are encountered on the route.
 Like 
                          is the case with rock grading systems, there are also 
                          several different systems to grade ice climbs. Most 
                          systems are closely related to each other and take into 
                          consideration solely technical difficulty. US systems 
                          uses WI or MI to indicate the type of ice followed by 
                          the number to indicate technical difficulty. In Central 
                          Europe system is the same completed with Roman number 
                          (I-VI) indicating objective hazards (seracs, rock fall, 
                          etc.) to be encountered on the route. Finnish system 
                          is the same without consideration of the objective hazards. 
                          Scottish system (also used in Norway) uses Roman numbers 
                          to indicate technical difficulty of the route. Grade 
                          Approximate Description (to give rough idea)1 Low-angle water ice of 40 to 50 degrees or a long 
                          moderate snow climb requiring basic level of technical 
                          expertise.
 2 Low-angle water ice with short bulges up to 60°.
 3 Steeper water ice on 50 to 60 degrees. Possibly bulges 
                          of 70°-90°. Ice is thick and secure protection 
                          easy to place.
 4 Short vertical columns, interspersed with rests. On 
                          50 to 60 degree ice fairly sustained climbing. Ice is 
                          thick and of good quality. Secure protection is easy 
                          to place.
 5 Generally multipitch ice climbing with sustained difficulties 
                          and/or strenuous vertical columns with little or no 
                          rest possible. Ice is still mostly of good quality.
 6 Multipitch routes with heightened degree of seriousness. 
                          Long vertical sections and very sustained difficulties. 
                          Ice is often rotten with more or less dubious possibilities 
                          for protection. Mixed.
 7 Full pitch of thin vertical or overhanging ice of 
                          dubious quality.
 8 Hardest ice climbing ever done.
 Aid 
                          Climbing GradesAid 
                          climbing grades indicates mainly the difficulty and 
                          quality of protection placements. Minor (upward) changes 
                          in difficulty can be marked with +-sign. Aid climbing 
                          grade are subject to change because of developing equipment 
                          and wear of the rock.
 Grade 
                          DescriptionA0 Fixed pieces of protection are already in place. 
                          Possibly A0 climb can involve the climber placing slings 
                          to climb some passages.
 A1 Pitons, hooks, wedges etc. are relatively easy to 
                          put in place. Occasional use of a ladder. Does not yet 
                          require much force and virtually every placement is 
                          perfectly capable of holding a fall. A1 climbs often 
                          get climbed "French free", meaning that the 
                          climber uses protection to aid progress by grabbing 
                          them.
 A2 Protection placements are fairly good, but placing 
                          the pieces may not be without difficulties. Between 
                          good placements there may be some less perfect placements.
 A3 A3 is hard aid. Normally leading a pitch takes several 
                          hours and there are potentially falls of 20-25 meters 
                          length, but without danger of grounding or severe injury. 
                          Active testing of soundness of placement is required.
 A4 Serious aid. Fall potential up to 35 meters with 
                          bad landings. Placements hold only body weight.
 A5 Placements hold only body weight for entire pitch 
                          with no solid protection. A leader fall at the top of 
                          an A5 pitch means a 100-meter fall with possibly lethal 
                          consequences.
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