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Zermatt
Climber Tech Alpine 2010
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FEEDBACK:
"A terrific week of climbing that pushed me to my
limit, and the views were amazing. Even when
not climbing, Jeff (the Guide) taught me useful ropework and
navigation tips in the hut." Jake P, Norfolk, 2008
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| Course
Overview |
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For
those who enjoy Alpine or Scottish rock or ice climbing,
this course allows you to push your technical climbing
skills and your grades. This course is based above the
stunning Alpine town of Zermatt in Switzerland and you
could climb from the Zermatt, Saas or even Turtmann /
Anniviers valleys. You should be confident on grade III
ice or UK Severe or
US Grade 5.9
to get the most out of this week. |
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This
course aims to ascend famous ridge routes around the
AD / D grade around Zermatt. Examples include the
Breithorn traverse, the
Zinal-Rothorn, Dent Blanche, Treverse of the Nadelgrat,
or the Rimpfischhorn.
Note that some of the harder routes mentioned are better
climbed on a 1:1 guiding ratio, so much of the itinerary
is experience dependent.
The week is highly flexible to cater for previous experience,
conditions, fitness etc.
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A
key feature of this week is that you are based in comfortable
mountain huts above Zermatt on a half board basis, so
you are given a good three course meal every evening.
This is good for your acclimatisation and saves any time
consuming walk-ins, making the most of your climbing time. |
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For
those prefering snow or ice routes, rather than mixed
or involving some rock, you should opt for the course
dates early in the season (June or July) for the best
conditions with more ice and less stonefall. |
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This
course can be used as progression from the Monte
Rosa 4000m Peaks
or the Oberland
4000m Peaks,
as it is focused on technical demanding ice & mixed
climbing summits. |
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Whatever
your previous ice or rock experience, the aim of this
course is also to teach you more skills and style points
useful in your own climbing, developing your mixed climbing,
grades and techniques on different routes.
When in Chamonix at either of the end of the week, or
when in the mountain huts, you are taught technical skills
such as knots and ropework, crevasse rescue hoist systems,
and avalanche prediction. |
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Dates: 4
- 10 July 2010, 5
- 11 September 2010.
Dates
for this course run on demand for groups of two people
between mid June and end of September.
For current availability
on this course click
here. |
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The
course at a glance... |
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Week long course, run during summer. Price £1249pp,
includes accommodation. |
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The focus of the week is to climb great technical ice
& mixed routes around Zermatt!. |
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Top tip... consider this course instead of the Alpine
Autonomy as the
guide ratio is 1:2. |
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You could also consider Chamonix routes... Alpine
Rock
or
Techical
Ice & Classics |
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Brief
Course Itinerary |
| Sun |
Travel
to Chamonix to arrive for the 18:00 check-in followed
by and course safety and itinerary briefings. There is
time for kit checks or rental of equipment. Briefings
are over by 20:00 and the Chamonix hosts accompany the
group to pre-dinner
drinks to answer any queries.
Night in Chamonix. |
| Mon |
Setting
off from Chamonix in the early morning you are driven
over to Tasch where you leave the car (cars are not allowed
in Zermatt), and catch a train into Zermatt. Today is
a day to refresh your climbing skills on rock and in crampons.
A popular route is the East Ridge of Breithorn with its
exposed snow ridge and great views into Zermatt, or another
possibility is one of the peaks above Saas or Zinal. Some
groups even opt for an Alpine rock route on their way
up to a mountain hut. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Night in
mountain hut. |
| Tue |
Starting
with an early Alpine start from a hut. A popular option
for acclimatised and experienced climbers is the exposed
traverse of the Nadelgrat, meaning 'Needle Ridge'. This
route involves some exciting mixed climbing in crampons
over the exposed ice and rock at altitude. Another
option is a more technical route on Castor or Pollux to
then reach a different mountain hut. Guiding ratio 1:2
(max). Night in mountain hut. |
| Wed |
Another
very early start for another summit. The popular aim for
today is the infamous altitude route of the Zinal-Rothorn.
This impressive route has a
knife edge traverse
over a void on both sides. There is mixed climbing, and
some sections of broken rock with huge exposure, but fantastic
views. Other
options include some of the big summits in the Mischabel
group. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Night
in mountain hut. |
| Thu |
Today
is a little easier to rest you after the past couple of
long technical days, and to prepare you for the big route
tomorrow. This morning there is a short technical rock
route, to increase your knowledge and technical skills
and your speed of rope work. In the afternoon you trek
into the mountain hut for the night, and can either practice
technical skills or rest and prepare.
Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Night in mountain
hut. |
| Fri |
An
early start for a major route at altitude such as to summit
the Dent Blanche. This famous route involves a long ridge
with sustained climbing over iced up rock, very similar
to the ascents of the Matterhorn on the MItilleggi ridge
of the Eiger. The views from the
summit are stunning, with the towering North Face of the
Matterhorn and Mont Blanc dominating the panorama. After
the descent you are driven back to Chamonix for the night.
Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Celebratory last night meal and
night in Chamonix. |
| Sat |
Breakfast,
then course debrief, with feedback and questions and answers
session. Depart for home. |
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| ITINERARY
NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain
adventures are weather and conditions dependant, so occasionaly
we are forced to alter the plans. If this is the case,
suitable alternatives are offered. Please use this outline
itinerary as a guide to the types of route / activity
that you will attempt. |
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| Course
Prices |
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Standard
course
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5
days 1:2 guiding, 7 days holiday in total
(The
course can also be run as 1:1 guided for £1999) |
£1249 |
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Premium
course
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7
days guiding, 8 days holiday in total
(Standard course plus Acclimatisation weekend)
LINK |
£1348 |
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Secure
online booking system |
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| Standard
Course Inclusions: 1) IFMGA Mountain Guide for five
days, 2) Chamonix course hosts for logistics & briefings,
3) B&B accommodation in Chamonix (inc. beddings & towels),
4) Pre course information booklet, 5) Equipment discount voucher
for UK shops, 6) Free 36 page technical Course Instruction Booklet,
7) Road transport in the Chamonix valley and to and from Zermatt,
8) Up to four nights half board (breakfast & three course
cooked dinner) in mountain huts (inc. costs for the Guides),
9) Evening technical instruction on evenings in Chamonix. |
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| Exclusions:
1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Equipment hire, 3) Personal
laundry, telephone calls, lunches, evening meals in valley,
& any purchases in mountain huts / hotels / restaurants,
4) Cable cars and uplift for you and your guide (cable cars
for Guide included in Chamonix), 5) Activities insurance, &
excess baggage charges. |
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| Upgrade
options |
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Acclimatisation
Weekend
£99
(throughout the season) |
To
get the most out your course, acclimatisation is essential
so that you minimise the chances of AMS (altitude sickness)
later on during your course,
details. |
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Matterhorn
/ Mt Blanc
£899
(July to mid September)
from
£449 (June to end
Sept) |
After
the course you could make the most of your acclimatisation
and extend by a weekend (two days) to attempt the summit
of one of these major Alpine summits, such as Mont Blanc,
the Matterhorn, or the Eiger. details. |
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Private
Room Upgrade
£120
(7-27 June & 6-26 Sept)
£150 (28 June - 5 Sept) |
The
course accommodation is usually in rooms of two sharing.
Two people booking / sending forms together are guaranteed
a room of two sharing. This upgrade guarantees you a private
room on
your own for your course. |
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