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Alpine
Autonomy Techniques 2012
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Course
overview

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Course
dates & availability

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If
you have previous climbing or crampon experience,
and want a fast track course that is designed
to make you more autonomous in the Alps, this
is the course for you. You cover all the technical
syllabus of the Introduction course in greater
detail, with greater focus on route finding
and equipment selection. |
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On
this course there is a real focus on climbing
in some of the most stunning areas of the
Mont Blanc massif, as well as learning skills
that will be useful in your climbing after
the course. The course culminates in the ascent
of a quiet and remote summit, such as the
traverse of the Domes du Miages. |
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The
technical content will be tailored to build
on your current experience, with an emphasis
on glacier travel and crevasse rescue on both
dry and wet glaciers. The course also covers
a whole host of ropework and Alpine safety
issues such as avalanche awareness, belays
and anchors, crampon and ice axe techniques. |
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This
course is set at just above the level of the
Introduction course (summer or winter), so
if you have a bit too much experience (such
as previous rock climbing experience) this
course is for you. The vast majority of the
routes ascended are of the Alpine PD grade
(roughly equivalent to Scottish Grade II/III). |
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Many
clients are pleasantly surprised how much
chance they get to lead, and how autonomous
they really belome over the week. We have
seen several teams set off to climb their
first 4000m peaks on their own, after the
course, and this course really is a complete
Alpine apprenticeship that works. |
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Dates:
these
are listed in the column on the right, and
they show the live availability from our secure
online booking system. When you book online,
you receive immediate confirmation, your Alpine
Information Booklet, course specific kit list
and invoice. |
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Course
pre-requisites for 2012 are upgraded:
For this season we have increased the technical
instruction element of this course, and explanded
the range of routes that could be climbed
during the week. As a result, we have upgraded
the pre-requisite skills and experience requirements
for anyone booking on this to have;

Crampons - have used crampons, even
for winter skills / walking

Rock
- if no outdoor rock experience, to be a capable
scrambler

Ropework
- be able to tie on to a rope, and to belay
safety

Fitness
- to be similar fitness to those attempting
Mont Blanc |
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Course Dates
Alpine Autonomy
- [5+] 3 - 9 Jun 2012
- [5+] 17 - 23 Jun 2012
- [5+] 1 - 7 Jul 2012
- [5+] 22 - 28 Jul 2012
- [ 0 ] 5 - 11 Aug 2012
- [5+] 19 - 25 Aug 2012
- [5+] 2 - 8 Sep 2012
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| Client
feedback |
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I
was so glad to find a course that
catered for someone with previous
experience, who wanted to find our
what I didnt know, in order to
climb in the future without a Guide.
You provided just that, & I enjoyed
the course
Patrick
T , Autonomy
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I
just wanted to thank you for organising
a great course last week, and for
all your help before and after it.
We both loved it - Gilles was a fantastic
guide, and I learnt far more in 5
days than I was expecting. Hoping
to be back in Chamonix sometime next
year for
another trip!
Ann
& Rachel , Autonomy
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The
day after the course finished, we
felt confident enough to take on and
complete an unguided climb. Absolutely
delighted. It did exactly what it
said on the tin.
Will
& Tom, Autonomy
2009
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Course
Photo Gallery
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Brief
Course Itinerary

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Sunday
Travel to Chamonix to arrive for the 17:00 check-in
followed by and course safety and itinerary briefings.
There is time for kit checks or rental of equipment.
Briefings are over by 19:00 and the team accompany
the group to pre-dinner drinks. Many clients opt
to travel out a day or two early to do a two day
acclimatisation weekend course to provide an extra
night in a hut, and to ascend a 3000m peak. Night
in Chamonix. |
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Monday
Day
to learn and practice using crampons and ice axes
on the Mer de Glace glacier (2000m). You also climb
vertical ice, create ice anchors, and learn glacier
travel skills. This is one of your most important
days of the course in terms of skills development
as it is essential to have good footwork on Mont
Blanc. Guiding ratio 1:6 (max).
Evening theory session on the key safety knots and
ropework. Night in Chamonix. |
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Tuesday
Alpine ridge
route, such as the Traverse of Aiguille du Crochues,
to focus on ropework, moving together, anchors,
and the assessment of objective dangers.
The route chosen for this day is generally a mixed
route that is ascended in mountain boots rather
than in rock shoes. Guiding ratio 1:3 (max). Evening
session on Alpine weather prediction and the effects
of mountains. Night in Chamonix. |
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Wednesday
Today
you really progress your altitude snowskills with
an ascent of another peak, such as the Petite Aiguille
Verte, and all skills previously learnt will be
tested. This style of route will really work on
your crampon skills and the selection of snow belays
on steeper ground. Guiding ratio 1:3 (max).
Evening session on climbers crevasse rescue and
emergency hoist systems. Night
in Chamonix. |
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Thursday
The
start of a two day route with a night in a mountain
hut, or a day route. It's up to you to decide the
itinerary for the last two days of this course.
Typically groups ascend the Domes du Miages, Aiguille
du Tour, Petite Forche, or Mont Blanc du Tacul,
and the route chosen is a reflection of your autonomy
skills development and of the weather and mountain
conditions.
Guiding ratio 1:3 (max).
Night in mountain hut. |
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Friday
If
you opted for a two day route, then today will be
an Alpine start from the mountain hut to ascend
one of the peaks mentioned on the previous day,
or it could also be another day route if you have
opted for that. After the main ascent of the week,
you descend back to the Chamonix valley. Guiding
ratio 1:3 (max).
Evening instruction session, then a celebratory
meal, with the final night spent in Chamonix. |
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Saturday
Breakfast
then the accommodation check out is by 10:00. Most
arrange their airport transfers to leave around
this time, to catch a flight from Geneva about midday.
Depart for home. Some
people opt to book a tandem paraglider flight in
the morning to celebrate the weeks efforts, and
prices for this are from 90€ for a c.30 minute
flight. These flights can be booked in resort up
to the day before you wish to fly. Depart for home. |
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| ITINERARY
NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain
adventures are weather and conditions dependant, so occasionaly
we are forced to alter the plans. If this is the case,
suitable alternatives are offered. Please use this outline
itinerary as a guide to the types of route / activity
that you will attempt. |
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Course
Photo Gallery
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| Course
Prices |
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Standard
course
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5
days guiding, 7 days holiday in total |
£899 |
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Premium
course
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7
days guiding, 8 days holiday in total
(Standard course plus Acclimatisation
weekend)
LINK |
£998 |
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Secure
online booking system |
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| Standard
Course Inclusions: 1) IFMGA Mountain Guide
for five days, 2) Chamonix course hosts for logistics
& briefings, 3) B&B accommodation in Chamonix
(inc. beddings & towels), 4) One night half board
in mountain hut (inc. costs for guides), 5) Pre course
information booklet, 6) Equipment discount voucher for
UK shops, 7) Free 36 page technical Course Instruction
Booklet, 8) Road transport in Chamonix valley, 9) Evening
technical instruction. |
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| Exclusions:
1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Equipment hire, 3)
Cable cars & uplift, 4) Personal laundry, telephone
calls, lunches, evening meals in valley, & any purchases
in mountain huts / hotels / restaurants, 5) Sunday pre-dinner
drinks & Friday celebratory meal & drinks, 6)
Activities insurance, & excess baggage charges. |
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| Upgrade
options |
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Acclimatisation
Weekend
£99
(throughout the season) |
To
get the most out your course, acclimatisation is
essential so that you minimise the chances of AMS
(altitude sickness) later on during your course,
details. |
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Half
Board Upgrade
£99
(throughout the season) |
For
every night that you are in town, you eat in a different
restaurant in the centre of Chamonix. Always three
courses, to power you for the next day. |
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Private
Room Upgrade
£120
(7-27 June & 6-26 Sept)
£150 (28 June - 5 Sept) |
The
course accommodation is usually in rooms of two
sharing. Two people booking / sending forms together
are guaranteed a room of two sharing. This upgrade
guarantees you a private room on
your own for your course. |
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