Mont
Blanc 4810m is the highest summit in Western Europe.
To get to the 'roof of Europe', we ascend by either
the 'Royal' route of the Trois Mont Blanc from the
Midi, or via the classic Gouter route.
For
the Mont Blanc ascent you need excellent fitness,
stamina and determination. You do not necessarily
need any previous crampon or altitude experience,
though it would be a real bonus. Any skills you
have will help, as well as great balance combined
with the ability to move quickly and efficiently
over broken mountain terrain is essential. You should
be confident on steep ridges, but don't worry as
you are taught all the necessary ropework and skills
during the week.
Due
to the altitude and the length of the climb, we
never declare the ascent to be easy. It is an unforgettable
experience to reach the summit, and you will test
the skills you have learnt along the way.
This
course is focused on you summitting Mont Blanc,
with other summits and nights spent at altitude
to increase acclimatisation. There is a dedicated
information page for Mont Blanc: summit
focus, which
details the experience and fitness required for
the climb.
A
principal feature of this course are the evening
theory sessions, where you are taught everything
from knots and ropework, to crevasse rescue hoist
systems, to avalanche prediction. This means that
your climbing time during the daylight hours with
the IFMGA qualified guides is optimised.
As
Icicle have an office based in the centre of Chamonix,
and our Course hosts are based there throughout
the year, we have excellent local contacts and detailed
knowledge of conditions to optimise your summitting
chances.
It is through these local conections that we can
be very flexible with our itinerary to enable you
to attempt Mont Blanc on any day during your course,
as we can arrange spaces in mountain huts or on
cable cars at very short notice, even in the key
summer season.
After
the first training day at a 1:6 guiding ratio, you
have four days guiding at a 1:2 ratio. These four
days are more than any other operator provides,
and are essential to give you flexibility for making
a summit attempt on the first weather window.
Key
links for further information about this course...
Dates:
these
are listed in the column on the right, and they
show the live availability from our secure online
booking system. When you book online, you receive
immediate confirmation, your Alpine Information
Booklet, course specific kit list and invoice.
An
action filled week, and a perfect ending
reaching the summit of Mont Blanc
on a clear day. From the top we could
see hundreds of miles Alan
N , Mont Blanc Summit
Climbing
Mont Blanc was harder than I thought,
but so rewarding too Sally
P
, Mont Blanc Summit
100%
summit, 100% happy, 100% thanks! A
once in a lifetime holiday.
I can't explain how much your support
and knowledge meant to me. It gave me
a total sense of confidence and trust,
which was essential during the final
steps Steve
R
, Mont Blanc Summit
PHOTO:
Jo & Jonathan on the summit of Mont Blanc 4810m, having
climbed via the Gouter Route.
Mont
Blanc summit views
Our
guiding team
As
you are looking at our Mont Blanc course you may be interested
to see what the summit views look like when you get to
the top!
All
our Alpine climbing courses are led by IFMGA Mountain
Guides. This is the highest mountain qualification.
To view our guide team click
here, or
for more information on qualifications click
here.
A
guaranteed summit?
We
can't book the weather, but we do guarantee to do
our best to maximise your summit chances by tailoring
the course to you, the individual. If you cannot
summit (through your skill or technical level or
the weather or objective dangers such as rockfall),
we will give you a credit voucher for the value
of the 'unused' elements of your course such as
nights in huts (n.b. guiding is not transferable
as it is provided anyway), to put towards a future
attempt or another Icicle trip. We
also offer a 2nd attempt package.
We are the only UK operator to have a fully flexible
itinerary, to to take advantage of any weather window
for a summit bid...
Call
us about Mont Blanc
Have
a chat with one of our Chamonix team for free using
Skype, or you can request our telephone
callback service.
Why
choose Icicle to guide you up Mont Blanc?
And
what if you don't?
Here
at Icicle we pride ourselves in being a Mont Blanc
specialists. See our Mont Blanc blog, by clicking
on the RSS logo, to read all our latest Mont Blanc
reports.
We
offer a range of courses to suit you, with 2, 5,
7, or 10 days of actual guiding for your ascent.
There isn't one plan that suits all, so get in touch
for advice as to which option best fits your skills.
There are no peak of season supplements that some
charge. You might find these cunningly offered as
'low season discounts', but you aren't stupid and
we don't patronise you with these charges.
Four days with extra guides (1:2) to make your ascent
on any of those days for the best chance of success.
No operators offer as many days 1:2 guiding. Ask
them! Most offer two or at best three.
The four days of 1:2 guiding mentioned above, enable
you to climb other summits as well as Mont Blanc,
rather than spending the first few days drifting
around glaciers, with six people on one rope!
We usually start from the high huts on Mont Blanc
(Gouter or Cosmiques), to give you the shortest
summit climb and so the best chances, though on
some nights in busy weeks the Tête Rousse
hut is also used to ensure you get a better nights
sleep.
Itinerary
flexibility to allow you to take full advantage
of the weather windows on any day, to maximise your
summit chances.
Our
prices are fixed in £ Sterling, to protect
you from euro fluctuations, so you can budget accurately.
There
is a choice of routes to opt for, depending on the
weather, conditions, and your experience.
We
have a team of over 40 IFMGA guides, and a resort
support team, who all want you to succeed too!
Some
of the downfalls of not booking with
Icicle for your Mont Blanc attempt are.....
Less
days with the potential for summit weather
windows = less chance of success.
Total itinerary flexibility to make your summit
attempt at the first weather window when ready.
Some operators make you check out of your
valley accommodation when you are in huts!
Client
feedback
A
brilliant holiday. To reach the summit
of Mont Blanc was a dream come true Tim
S
, Mont Blanc Summit
Sincere
thanks to you all for everything.
I can't recommend you highly enough
to everyone I tell about my trip Ralph
W
, Mont Blanc Summit
Thank
you, thank you, thank you, thank
you, and a 1000 times more! Veronica
J
, Mont Blanc Summit
FREE
Podcast: Training for Mont Blanc...view
website course page
This really is a no holes barred podcast, where
we explain exactly what an ascent entails physically
and technically too, and give examples of good UK
hill training...
PHOTO:
Chris & Joe on the summit of Mont Blanc 4810m, ascent
via Traverse, descent via Gouter.
Preparation
& Acclimatisation
Mont
Blanc equipment list
An
ascent of Mont Blanc should not be underestimated,
and you should arrive for this course in good
physical condition as the climb will probably
be the greatest physical exertion of your
life. Please don't ignore this issue... We
highly recommend that you read our training
page (click
here)
for details on how to prepare.
If you are worried about
acclimatisation, which is a real concern for
anyone attempting Mont Blanc, we recommend
that you book on an Acclimatisation
Weekend
before your course. This weekend is only £99
and extends your course with guiding for the
weekend before your week long course. During
the acclimatisation weekend you ascend to
a mountain hut on the Saturday, spend the
night there, and summit a 3000m peak the next
morning. This weekend means you are acclimatised
earlier, leaving you with more summiting weather
windows for Mont Blanc, and so maximising
your chances.
Extra
costs / local payments
No
suppliments or local payments are obligatory.
Budget
for daily lunches, and evening meals in Chamonix.
If
you do not own any climbing kit, you need
to pay for hire
kit.
You
should budget on £10 a day for valley
living expenses for food, water in huts etc.
We
send a course specific equipment list to all those
booking on our courses, but due to the popularity
of this course, we outline a typical packing list
for the Mont Blanc summit day in the equipment list
below...
Basic
clothing - Light coloured long sleeve wicking
base layer
- Schoeller / soft shell climbing trousers
- Mid layer fleece jacket / gillet
- Fleece hat and gloves, and sunhat / cap
- B3 leather / plastic boots, and gaiters
Equipment - Harness, helmet, ice axe (without
leash)
- 12 point crampons & good anti-balling
plates
- 1 x 120cm Sling, 1 x karabiner, 1 x prussic
loop
- Telescopic trekking poles with snow baskets
- Head torch (LED style is lightest type)
Altitude
gear - Synthetic or down insulation
jacket
- Goggles in case of high wind
- Neoprane face mask in case of wind
- Thick waterproof over gloves
- Windproof over trousers (eg PacLite)
General
kit - Close fitting sun glasses (Factor
4 for snow)
- Pocket snacks for summit day (eg Haribos)
- Water bottle (not bladder type as they freeze)
- Rucksack (up to 35 litres max is ideal)
- Basic blister kit, Aspirin, suncream
For
more equipment advice, and the range of Icicle kit
for hire in Chamonix, please visit the equipment
pages
PHOTO:
Rachel celebrating on the summit of Mont Blanc 4810m, climbed
via the Traverse Route.
Brief Course Itinerary
Please
note that whilst the itinerary below is an ideal, the weather
and conditions, as well as your skills, fitness, experience
and acclimatisation all play a part too. In our decade of experience,
we have found that hardly two weeks ever run the same, and even
on a particular week sometimes different summit groups go on
different days from different huts. Whilst the itinerary notes
outline this, it is imperitive that you understand how flexible
this course must be. You are dealing with the high mountains
and extreme altitude, not a prescribed coach tour!
Sunday
Travel to Chamonix to arrive for the 17:00 check-in followed
by and course safety and itinerary briefings. There is
time for kit checks or rental of equipment. Briefings
are over by 19:00 and the team accompany the group to
pre-dinner drinks. Many clients opt to travel out a day
or two early to do a two day acclimatisation weekend course
to provide an extra night in a hut, and to ascend a 3000m
peak. Night in Chamonix.
Monday
Day
to learn and practice using crampons and ice axes on the
Mer de Glace glacier (2000m). You also climb vertical
ice, create ice anchors, and learn glacier travel skills.
This is one of your most important days of the course
in terms of skills development as it is essential to have
good footwork on Mont Blanc. Guiding ratio 1:6 (max).
Evening theory session on the key safety knots and ropework.
Night in Chamonix.
Tuesday
Acclimatisation
route to a summit. Continue to a mountain hut for the
night or return to Chamonix. The aim is to develop your
skills at altitude. The choice of the 1 or 2 day routes
is made in reaction to which day you attempt Mont Blanc,
as we can alter the itinerary to maximise your chances.
Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Evening
session on Alpine weather prediction and the effects of
mountains. Night in Chamonix or hut.
Wednesday
Acclimatisation
route to a summit. Either an Alpine start from the mountain
hut or a second acclimatisation route. Typical routes
for the last two days include Cosmiques Arete, Gran Paradiso,
Petite Verte, Pointe Lachenal or Aiguille du Tour. Return
to Chamonix to prepare for Mont Blanc. Guiding ratio 1:2
(max). Evening session
on climbers crevasse rescue and emergency hoist systems.
Night in Chamonix.
Thursday
Equipment
and bag checks before you set off to climb up to one of
the high huts, either the Cosmiques or the Gouter / Tête
Rousse hut for the night. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). The
choice of route that you take on Mont Blanc, and which
hut(s) you stay in is a function of the weather, conditions,
and your skills and fitness. Often different teams suit
different plans to maximise their summit chances. Night
in hut on Mont Blanc.
Friday
Summit
Mont Blanc 4810m from an Alpine start from the high hut,
and descend to Chamonix. It
is usual to reach the summit just after sunrise, to take
advantage of the best snow conditions, and to minimise
the risks of stonefall or late afternoon storms. Reach
valley afternoon, celebrations in the evening. Guiding
ratio 1:2 (max).
Evening instruction session, then a celebratory meal,
with the final night spent in Chamonix.
Saturday
Breakfast then the accommodation check out is by 10:00.
Most arrange their transfers for around this time for
a flight from Geneva about midday. Some people opt to
book a tandem paraglider flight in the morning to celebrate
the weeks efforts, and prices for this are from 90€
for a c.30 minute flight. These flights can be booked
in resort up to the day before you wish to fly. Depart
for home.
ITINERARY
NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain
adventures are weather and conditions dependant, so occasionaly
we are forced to alter the plans. If this is the case,
suitable alternatives are offered. Please use this itinerary
as a guide to the types of route / activity you attempt.
Want
advice on what it's really like? Rather than call an office
of admin staff, or a guide who has been guiding so long
that they probably will not remember what it feels like
to be an amateur, why not get the low down on Mont Blanc
from our straight talking Chamonix staff, who between
them have climbed the peak over 30 times. They will tell
you exactly how it feels and how to best prepare. Call
them for free on Skype telephone at 'icicle-chamonix'.
Alternatively you can telephone them direct on +33 67
55 621 55.
If
you are keen to hear more
about how fit you need to be to ascend
Mont Blanc by any of the classic routes,
then click on the image below to visit
the FREE Icicle Podcasts page
Is
an ascent of Mont Blanc suitable for novices?
No
other course provider will ask this question, but we do
as we want you to be sure that this is the right course.
It costs a lot of money and time, and we want you to have
a good chance of success. Mont Blanc isn't an ideal first
Alpine 4000m peak, but on the other hand it is not technically
difficult. You require excellent fitness and stamina,
as well as great balance combined with the ability to
move quickly and efficiently over broken mountain terrain.
An ability to learn quickly is useful, as you will be
taught a lot during the week.
Course
Prices
Standard
course
5
days guiding, 7 days holiday in total
£1349
Premium
course
7
days guiding, 8 days holiday in total
(Standard course plus Acclimatisation weekend)
LINK
Standard
Course Inclusions: 1) IFMGA Mountain Guide for five
days, 2) Chamonix course hosts for logistics & briefings,
3) Evening technical instruction sessions, 4) Twin / double
room B&B accommodation in Chamonix (inc. linen, bedding
& towels) for the whole week, so you don't move out when
in huts, 5) One night half board in mountain hut for you and
guide, 6) Pre course information booklet, 7) Equipment discount
voucher for UK shops, 8) Free 36 page technical Course Instruction
Booklet, 9) Road transport in Chamonix valley, 10) Icicle discounts
privilege card for reductions in local shops and restaurants
in Chamonix.
Exclusions:
1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Equipment hire, 3) Cable
cars & uplift (c. 60 euros depending on itinerary), 4) Optional
second or more nights (not normally required) in a mountain
hut on a half board basis for you and guide, 5) Personal laundry,
telephone calls, lunches, evening meals in valley, & any
purchases in mountain huts / hotels / restaurants, 6) Road transport
outside Chamonix valley (not usually required), 7) Sunday pre-dinner
drinks & Friday celebratory meal & drinks, 8) Activities
insurance, & excess baggage charges.
Upgrade
options
Acclimatisation
Weekend £99
(throughout the season)
To
get the most out your course, acclimatisation is essential so
that you minimise the chances of AMS later on during your course,
details.
Half
Board Upgrade £99
(throughout the season)
For
every night that you are in town, you eat in a different restaurant
in the centre of Chamonix. Always three courses, to power you
for the next day.
Matterhorn
/ Eiger Extension £1099
(two days guiding)
Two
days of extra guiding to attempt the Matterhorn or the Eiger,
with the same guide who you have climbed with on Mont Blanc,
details.
Private
Room Upgrade £150pw (subject to availability)
The
course accommodation is usually in rooms of two or three sharing.
A couple (double bed) booking / sending forms together are guaranteed
a room of two sharing. This upgrade guarantees you a private
room for
your course.
