| |
|
Trilogy:
Mt Blanc, Eiger, Matterhorn
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
| Course
overview |
|
Course
dates & availability |
 |
|
|
|
 |
This
course is no amuse bouche, as the photo galleries
above show, with
photos of our clients summiting the three Alpine
giants of Mont Blanc, Matterhorn and the Eiger.
This fortnight course enables you to ascend this
mighty trilogy with qualified IFMGA guides. |
|
Each
year we get many clients wanting to climb all three
of these classic Alpine giants in one trip. We offer
this as a space on a scheduled Mont Blanc trip on
the first week, so you are trained and acclimatised,
then on the second week you climb 1:1 to attempt
both the Matterhorn and Eiger. |
|
The
easiest of the trilogy is Mont Blanc in terms of
technical difficulty. The Eiger and Matterhorn as
very similar in grades to each other, but are at
lower altitudes though the exposure is higher. |
|
To
book on this Alpine Trilogy course you should have
the pre-requisite experience to book on any of the
courses independantly. Just to clarify, it is not
good enough to book to hope that you gain enough
skills on Mont Blanc to attempt the other peaks,
as with the best will in the world, you won't as
the mountains are so different in terms of types
of terrain. |
|
For
the Matterhorn or Eiger we advertise your experience
as that you should be very fit, have good footwork
on steep ground, be good with exposure and have
good ropework skills (previous skills: Alpine PD
/ Grade II Ice / UK Severe / US 5.9). Please ensure
that you meets all of these requirements. If you
are in absolutely any doubt, then please get in
touch with one of our course advisors. |
|
To
be honest, this course will not appeal to many people
in terms of the number out there who have sufficient
fitness, skills, and determination! If you are up
for a challenge, then they don't come much bigger
than this. |
|
Course Dates
Alpine Trilogy
- [ -1 ] 8 - 21 Jul 2012
- [ 0 ] 15 - 28 Jul 2012
- [ 1 ] 22 Jul - 4 Aug 2012
- [ 0 ] 29 Jul - 11 Aug 2012
- [ 0 ] 5 - 18 Aug 2012
- [ 1 ] 12 - 25 Aug 2012
- [ 1 ] 19 Aug - 1 Sep 2012
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Client
feedback |
|
|
|
Physically
this was a tough tough two weeks, but needless
to say I slept like a baby ever since. Thank
you so much for your 'can do' attitude and
flexibility
Peter
Lee , Alpine Trilogy
|
|
|
|
I'm
going to need a holiday to get over this
one. Seriously though, a huge thanks to
you all for making this dream come true
Sally
Neil , Alpine
Trilogy
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
Brief Course Itinerary
Please
note that whilst the itinerary below is an ideal, the weather
and conditions, as well as your skills, fitness, experience
and acclimatisation all play a part too. In our decade of experience,
we have found that hardly two weeks ever run the same, and even
on a particular week sometimes different summit groups go on
different days from different huts. Whilst the itinerary notes
outline this, it is imperitive that you understand how flexible
this course must be. You are dealing with the high mountains
and extreme altitude, not a prescribed coach tour!
|
|
|
Sunday
Travel to Chamonix to arrive for the 17:00 check-in followed
by and course safety and itinerary briefings. There is
time for kit checks or rental of equipment. Briefings
are over by 19:00 and the team accompany the group to
pre-dinner drinks. Many clients opt to travel out a day
or two early to do a two day acclimatisation weekend course
to provide an extra night in a hut, and to ascend a 3000m
peak. Night in Chamonix. |
|
|
|
|
|
Monday
Day
to learn and practice using crampons and ice axes on the
Mer de Glace glacier (2000m). You also climb vertical
ice, create ice anchors, and learn glacier travel skills.
This is one of your most important days of the course
in terms of skills development as it is essential to have
good footwork on Mont Blanc. Guiding ratio 1:6 (max).
Evening theory session on the key safety knots and ropework.
Night in Chamonix. |
|
|
|
|
|
Tuesday
Acclimatisation
route to a summit. Continue to a mountain hut for the
night or return to Chamonix. The aim is to develop your
skills at altitude. The choice of the 1 or 2 day routes
is made in reaction to which day you attempt Mont Blanc,
as we can alter the itinerary to maximise your chances.
Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Evening
session on Alpine weather prediction and the effects of
mountains. Night in Chamonix or hut. |
|
|
|
|
|
Wednesday
Acclimatisation
route to a summit. Either an Alpine start from the mountain
hut or a second acclimatisation route. Typical routes
for the last two days include Cosmiques Arete, Gran Paradiso,
Petite Verte, Pointe Lachenal or Aiguille du Tour. Return
to Chamonix to prepare for Mont Blanc. Guiding ratio 1:2
(max). Evening session
on climbers crevasse rescue and emergency hoist systems.
Night in Chamonix. |
|
|
|
|
|
Thursday
Equipment
and bag checks before you set off to climb up to one of
the high huts, either the Cosmiques or the Gouter / Tête
Rousse hut for the night. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). The
choice of route that you take on Mont Blanc, and which
hut(s) you stay in is a function of the weather, conditions,
and your skills and fitness. Often different teams suit
different plans to maximise their summit chances. Night
in hut on Mont Blanc. |
|
|
|
|
|
Friday
Summit
Mont Blanc 4810m from an Alpine start from the high hut,
and descend to Chamonix. It
is usual to reach the summit just after sunrise, to take
advantage of the best snow conditions, and to minimise
the risks of stonefall or late afternoon storms. Reach
valley afternoon, celebrations in the evening. Guiding
ratio 1:2 (max).
Evening instruction session, then a celebratory meal,
with the final night spent in Chamonix. |
|
|
|
|
|
Saturday
& Sunday
Breakfast, then you have two days off to really concentrate
on resting and relaxation. Some people opt to book a tandem
paraglider flight in the morning to celebrate the first
weeks efforts, and prices for this are from 90€ for
a c.30 minute flight. These flights can be booked in resort
up to the day before you wish to fly. On the Sunday evening
you meet at 17:00 in the office for a briefing on the
plans for the second week. |
|
|
|
|
|
Monday
Today
is fairly straighforward, as you drive over to Tasch.
Here you park and take the train to car free Zermatt,
then ascend the cable cars to Schwartzee. From here it
is a two to three hour hike up to the Hornli hut. There
are no technical difficulties on the approach, but you
get stunning views up the arete that you will be on the
next day. Guiding ratio 1:1 (max).
Night in the Hornli mountain hut on the Matterhorn. |
|
|
|
|
|
Tuesday
A
very eary start to ascend the Matterhorn. Usually you
are climbing by 04:00am, and it should take four hours
to reach the summit. On this peak the timings are very
important to reduce the risks of being blocked by slow
groups and to reduce the risk of rockfall. From the summit,
you descend the same route to reach the hut and then return
to Chamonix in the late afternoon. Guiding ratio 1:1 (max).
Night in Chamonix. |
|
|
|
|
|
Wednesday
Today
is a buffer day to allow for flexibility for weather windows.
If the weather is good, today would typically be an easier
day such as some rock climbing in Chamonix, to give you
time to recover from the Matterhorn, and to dry out and
prepare kit for the Eiger attempt. Some people take the
whole day off, whilst others find the rock climbing a
great way to stretch and relax again. Guiding ratio 1:1
(max).
Night in Chamonix. |
|
|
|
|
|
Thursday
Today
you drive over to Grindlewald, and catch the train up
the Eiger. The route usually ascended is the Mitilleggi
ridge, in which case you exit the train at the Eismeer
station, then climb to the hut. An alternative is to take
the train to Jungfraujoch and to stay in the Monchsjoch
hut, if opting to ascend by the SW ridge. The Mitilleggi
hut is spectacularly situated actually on the ridge. Guiding
ratio 1:1 (max). Night in hut on the Eiger. |
|
|
|
|
|
Friday
Alpine
start for the ascent of the Mitilleggi ridge of the Eiger.
After you reach the summit, you then descend the normal
route to Monchjoch, then
traverse the glacier to Jungfraujoch to catch the Eiger
train which descends to Grindelwald, from where you return
to Chamonix.
Guiding ratio 1:1 (max).
Evening instruction session, then a celebratory meal,
with the final night spent in Chamonix. |
|
|
|
|
|
Saturday
& Sunday
Breakfast
then the accommodation check out is by 10:00. Most arrange
their airport transfers to leave around this time, to
catch a flight from Geneva about midday.
Some people opt to book
a tandem paraglider flight in the morning to celebrate
the weeks efforts, and prices for this are from 90€
for a c.30 minute flight. These flights can be booked
in resort up to the day before you wish to fly. Depart
for home. |
|
|
| ITINERARY
NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain
adventures are weather and conditions dependant, so occasionaly
we are forced to alter the plans. If this is the case,
suitable alternatives are offered. Please use this itinerary
as a guide to the types of route / activity you attempt. |
|
|
Course
Prices
|
| Standard
course |
10
days guiding, 14 days holiday in total |
£2999 |
| Premium
course |
12
days guiding, 15 days holiday in total
(Standard course plus Acclimatisation weekend)
LINK |
£3048 |
|
|
Secure
online booking system |
|
|
| Standard
Course Inclusions: 1) IFMGA Mountain Guide for ten
days, 2) Chamonix course hosts for logistics & briefings,
3) Evening technical instruction sessions, 4) Twin / double
room B&B accommodation in Chamonix (inc. linen, bedding
& towels) for the whole week, so you don't move out when
in huts, 5) Up to two nights half board in mountain huts (inc.
guide costs), 6) Pre course information booklet, 7) Equipment
discount voucher for UK shops, 8) Free 36 page technical Course
Instruction Booklet, 9) Road transport in Chamonix valley and
the road costs for travelling to Zermatt and Grindlewald, 10)
Icicle discounts privilege card for reductions in local shops
and restaurants in Chamonix. |
|
| Exclusions:
1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Equipment hire, 3) Cable
cars and uplift (the uplift for the guide is included in Chamonix,
but you must pay for their uplift tickets on the Matterhorn
and Eiger), 4) Any extra nights (two nights in total are included)
in mountain huts on a half board basis for you and guide, 5)
Personal laundry, telephone calls, lunches, evening meals in
valley, & any purchases in mountain huts / hotels / restaurants,
6) Sunday pre-dinner drinks & Friday celebratory meal &
drinks, 7) Activities insurance, & excess baggage charges. |
|
 |
Icicle
expedition kit bag for FREE for Alpine Trilogy course
clients : All
those booking on this course are entitled to a free Icicle
expedition kit bag. This tough expedition capacity kit
(c.75l) bag is designed for full expedition usage and
is made out of durable and waterproof rip-proof material.
It normally retails at £50. Postage within the UK
is included in the prices. If you live overseas, it's
not a problem at all. We'll let you know the price for
postage. View
the bag spec here. |
|
|
| Upgrade
options |
|
Acclimatisation
Weekend
£99
(throughout the season) |
To
get the most out your course, acclimatisation is essential so
that you minimise the chances of AMS later on during your course,
details. |
|
|
Private
Room Upgrade
£150pw (subject to availability)
|
The
course accommodation is usually in rooms of two or three sharing.
A couple (double bed) booking / sending forms together are guaranteed
a room of two sharing. This upgrade guarantees you a private
room for
your course. |
| |
