Eiger is one of the most famous and
feared mountains in the world, due
to the renowned difficulty of the
routes on it's North face or 'Nordwand'.
For those looking to climb this great
mountain by a less dangerous method,
there are a choice of routes up the
mountain, namely the Mittillegi Ridge
and the West Arete. The Mittillegi
Ridge is our primary choice, as it
is objectively safer and has a longer
season in condition.
famous Alpine summits can be climbed
with a low amount of skill or talent.
This is not so for the Eiger, and inexperienced
peak baggers should beware that their
chances of success will be low. To consider
yourself for this course, you should
be very fit, have good footwork on steep
ground (including on rock with crampons),
and also have good ropework skills.
course should also appeal to those who
have attended a Classics, Mont Blanc
Summits or Matterhorn course. If you
have significant previous rock climbing
experience, but not much crampon or
alpine experience, this can be developed
over the week of the course as of greater
importance are your ropework, ability
with exposure and balance / stability
on your crampons.
course is run on a 1:2 Guiding ratio
for the first three days, so the Guide
can assess and develop your skills and
abilities before attempting the Eiger
(1:1 ratio), to move at your speed.
One night in the Mittellegi mountain hut
is included in the price. To keep the
price low for you, and give you the
greatest route flexibility, your cable
cars in Chamonix and Grindelwald are
not included in the course price, and
when you go to Grindelwald you must
pay for the Guide cable car (budget
on around £160 total).
are listed in the column on the right,
and they show the live availability
from our secure online booking system.
When you book online, you receive immediate
confirmation, your Alpine Information
Booklet, course specific kit list and
to Chamonix to arrive for the 17:00 check-in
and course / itinerary briefings. There is
time for kit checks or rental. Briefings are
over by 19:00 so you can go out for food.
Night in Chamonix.
Route: Either climb Chappelle
de la Gliere, Aiguille de L'M or Petit Charmoz. Guiding
ratio 1:2 (max). Return
to Chamonix for the night.
Route: Either climb Aiguille d'Entreves or
the Marbrée Arete. Possibility of staying
in a hut for the night, such as the Torino,
for an Alpine start the next day. Guiding
ratio 1:2 (max).
another day route such as the Chere Couloir,
or an Alpine start from the hut for a route
such as the Dent du Geant or the Rochefort
to Chamonix for the night. Guiding ratio 1:2
over to Grindelwald. Ascend the Jungfraujoch
railway, spend time training on glacier. Traverse
to Mittillegi Mountain Hut for the night. Guiding
ratio 1:1 (max).
start for the ascent of the Mittillegi ridge
of the Eiger. After you reach the summit,
you then descend the normal route to Monchjoch, then
traverse the glacier to Jungfraujoch to catch
the Eiger train which descends to Grindelwald,
from where you return
to Chamonix, where you spend the final night
of your holiday. Guiding ratio 1:1 (max).
then the accommodation check out is by 10:00.
Most arrange their airport transfers to leave
around this time, to catch a flight from Geneva
about midday. Depart for home.
NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries.
Mountain adventures are weather and conditions
dependant, so occasionaly we are forced to
alter the plans. If this is the case, suitable
alternatives are offered. Please use this
outline itinerary as a guide to the types
of route / activity that you will attempt.
days guiding, 7 days holiday in total
on the planner logo to the right to
see the real time live course availability
Course Inclusions: 1) IFMGA Mountain
Guide for five days, 2) Chamonix course hosts for
logistics & briefings, 3) Self-catered accommodation
in Chamonix (inc. beddings & towels), 4) One
night half board in mountain hut on the Eiger (inc.
costs for guides), 5) Pre course information booklet,
6) Equipment discount voucher for UK shops, 7) Free
36 page technical Course Instruction Booklet, 8)
Road transport in Chamonix valley including road
transport to / from the Oberland region, 10) Evening
technical instruction / briefing sessions on nights
1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Equipment hire,
3) Personal laundry, telephone calls, lunches, evening
meals in valley, & any purchases in mountain
huts / hotels / restaurants, 4) Cable cars and uplift
for you and your guide (cable cars for guide included
in Chamonix), 5) Optional second night in a hut
during the training days, on a half board basis
for you and your guide, 6) Sunday pre-dinner drinks
& Friday celebratory meal & drinks, 7) Activities
insurance, & excess baggage charges.
The scheduled standard course assumes 1:2 guiding
for the first 3 days. Note that is there is just
one person on a course, less 1:1 guiding days can
be offered, however accommodation will be provided
for the whole week, and guiding options and locations
will be discussed with you within the budget paid.
upgrade: Have you thought of upgrading
to a 1:1 course throughout? Some clients prefer
this strategy to provide even more flexibility during
the week, and to allow them to move on all routes,
at a more tailored pace. One key advantage is that
the Eiger itself could even be climbed over a three
day period, with two nights in huts on the mountain
(n.b. only one night is included as per inclusions
above). The 1:1 guiding ratio for the five days,
with the same other inclusions as the standard course,
Many clients on
this trip consider upgrading with one
or more of the following course additions...
to single from
£300-£500 in addition to
standard course price,
depending on week.
Extend by 2 days after
to ascend one of the
Big 5 Alpine peaks as
an extra summit.
Rent all technical kit
for a week. Full Alpine
Bundle costs you just
£100 for the week.
night spent in
Chamonix, with choice
of self-guided or guided
on Sunday. From £70.
course accommodation - normally clients are
based in self-catered flats (details),
so take a look, and decide if it's for you.
For more luxury, contact us for quotes in
higher standard apartments, or hotels of any
standard required. If you have / source your
own course accommodation, or we cannot provide
an upgrade, the standard course price has
a £100pp reduction applied on your invoice.
Eiger training weekend UK
weekend is based in the UK Lake District, with two days guiding on scrambling and rock climbing terrain. It aims to give you as much preparation on similar ground, that you will encounter on the Eiger (or Matterhorn. The UK
Matterhorn / Eiger Training weekend is guided on a 1:2 ratio, to allow you to push your level. We offer scheduled dates (see the box to the right), though if there are 2 of you booking together, we can operate this on any week that you request.
Course spaces & dates
for the UK Matterhorn Training Weekend (link)...
Course Dates Rock & Roped Scrambles
No Dates Available
Alpine summits open eve
is an event extra to the UK
Alpine Training weekend course.
It is FREE and open to those booked on our Mont Blanc / Gran Paradiso / Monte Rosa type and level trips. The
event runs from 18:00 to 19:30 at our Windermere
shop, to show films of the routes, and discuss
kit and training. You don't need to be attending
the weekend course to join the open evening
details). E-mail us to reserve
space(s). Dates are
the Saturdays of the weekend dates on the
Course spaces and dates
for the UK Alpine Training Weekend (link)...
the Mitilleggi Arête was
awesome, and my Guide made me feel safe
knew it was going to be exposed, but
the summit ridge will stay in my mind
for a very long time! Thank you so much Sam
Ford , Eiger
to Matt for guiding me and keeping me
safe all week, and to your Chamonix
team for sorting everything for me when
my baggage was delayed 24 hours Mark
Timms , Eiger
Eiger Mittellegi media
data for this trip
trips start in the Chamonix valley in the French Alps,
at the foot of Mont Blanc. It is easily accessed via a
90 minute transfer from Geneva airport.
Buy key items for this trip
FREE post for
UK orders over £30
neck gaiter for
orders over £50
above to view online shopping
basket & pay.
Grivel Ares harness
BD Vector helmet
Oberland 1:50k map
Air Tech Evo
Epic 35l rucksack
full course equipment list,
with examples of kit, click
Eiger magazine article
on the image below to read the Eiger Mittellegi article
we wrote, which was published in Trek & Mountain magazine
Equipment - summit
day kit list...
send a course specific equipment list to all those booking
on our courses, but due to the popularity of this course,
we outline a typical packing list for the summit day in
the list below.
clothing - Light coloured long
sleeve wicking layer
- Schoeller / soft shell climbing trousers
- Mid layer fleece jacket / gillet
- Fleece hat and gloves, and sunhat / cap
- B3 leather / plastic boots, and gaiters
Equipment - Harness, helmet, ice
axe (without leash)
- 12 point crampons and anti-balling plates
- 1 x 120cm Sling, 1 x karabiner, 1 x prussic
- Belay device for abseils (if required)
- Head torch (LED style is lightest type)
gear - Synthetic or down insulation
- Goggles in case of high wind
- Neoprane face mask in case of wind
- Thick waterproof over gloves
- Windproof over trousers (eg PacLite)
kit - Close fitting sun glasses
(Factor 4 for snow)
- Pocket snacks for summit day (eg Haribos)
- Water bottle (bladder type may freeze)
- Rucksack (up to 35 litres max is ideal)
- Basic blister kit, Aspirin, suncream
Preparation - altitude
ascent of the Eiger should not be underestimated,
and you should arrive for this course in good physical
condition as the climb will probably be the greatest
physical exertion of your life. Please don't ignore
this issue... We highly recommend that you read
our training page (click
here) for details.
If you are worried about acclimatisation,
we recommend that you book on an Acclimatisation
Weekend before your course. to help you get acclimatised
earlier, leaving you with more summiting weather
windows for the Eiger.
key part of choosing a company is being able to come and
talk about your plans with an experienced course advisor
face to face. In an increasingly virtual world, we know
our clients value speaking to real people, getting open
and honest advice. The vast majority of our clients are
British, and our office and outdoor store is based in
Windermere in the English Lake District. Get in contact
to arrange a meeting, and come in for a coffee to discuss
your course in person with a trip