Summit: Mont Blanc 4810m is the highest summit in
Western Europe. To get to the 'roof of Europe',
we normally ascend by either the 'Traverse'
route of the Trois Mont Blanc from the Midi (if 1:1),
the Gonella route from the Italian Val Veny (early season),
or most frequently via the Gouter route.
USP: Our primary focus is on getting you to the
summit, no faffing, no discussion, no fuss.
If you train hard, are focused, and the weather
plays ball, we'll get you up there. If you
want us to wave a magic wand, and not put
in the training before, this really isn't
the mountain for you! We are doers, not dreamers.
Skills: You need excellent
fitness, stamina and determination. Following the glacial evolution during the heatwaves of 2022, sections (e.g. Bosses Arete) are more technical, so a minimum of 2 days crampon experience is now a pre-requisite, and ideally a 4000m Alpine peak / altitude experience. Great balance, combined with the
ability to move quickly and efficiently over
broken mountain terrain, is essential. You
should be confident on steep ridges. You are taught any necessary
ropework and skills during the week.
Effort: Due to the altitude and the length of the
climb, we never declare the ascent to be easy.
It is an unforgettable experience to reach
the summit, and you will test the skills you
have learnt along the way.
Acclimatisation: This course is focused on you summitting Mont
Blanc, with other summits and nights spent
at altitude to increase acclimatisation. There
is a dedicated information page for Mont Blanc: summit
focus,
which details the experience and fitness required
for the climb.
Instruction: A
principal feature of this course are the evening
theory sessions (optional attendance), where
you can opt to be taught a wide range of extra
skills including; from knots and ropework,
crevasse rescue hoist systems, or route planning.
Click for details.
This helps maximise your climbing time during
the days.
Dates: these
are listed in the column on the right, and
they show the live availability from our secure
online booking system. When you book online,
you receive immediate confirmation, your Alpine
Information Booklet, course specific kit list
and invoice.
Photo: Climbers
ascending the Bosses Arete towards the summit at dawn,
having ascended via the Gouter.
How
can I improve my chances on Mont Blanc?
Fitness: An
ascent of Mont Blanc should not be underestimated,
and you should arrive for this course in good physical
condition as the climb will probably be the greatest
physical exertion of your life. Please don't ignore
this issue. You should be at least half marathon
fitness, in a respectable time. It's even better
if you are marathon fit! We highly recommend that
you read our training page (click
here) for details.
Acclimatisation: It's naive to say that 'X'
days is 'ideal' for Mont Blanc ascents, as every
exra day you spend at altitude will improve your
acclimatisation. It can be as simple as reading
a book at the Aiguille du Midi, sleeping in a rented
hyperbaric chamber at home, or in tens of other
ways. We recommend that you book on an Acclimatisation
Weekend to extend your trip. By acclimatising earlier you
provide more summit flexibility.
Weather:We
can't book the weather, but we do guarantee to do
our best to maximise your summit chances by tailoring
the course to you, the individual. There's no reliable
way of predicting weather on a particular week,
but we only offer ascents in the key season where
the weather is typically stable anti-cyclonic pattern,
not pushing into the early or late season where
weather can be more unsettled with fresh snowfalls.
Preparation: To help prepare for an attempt on Mont Blanc, we recommend you book on at least one or more of these training and skills courses, to build up your fitness and skills to an ascent, to give you the very best chance. Experience
helps increase flexibility in terms of weather windows,
routes, speed, and safety. Higher levels of experience
will help raise summiting chances. Train hard, climb easy!
Mountain Training w/e
Winter Toubkal 4167m
Lakes Rock Climbing
Scottish Winter Skills
Lake District weekend mountain training trips to develop footwork and hill fitness. 1:6 ratio; link
Climb the highest peak in the Morrocan Atlas, and develop crampon skills on the climb; link
Weekend of roped scrambles & multi pitch rock climbing, on a 1:2 instructor ratio ; link
Fort William based winter skills course. 2 days guiding 1:4 to build your crampon skills; link
Photo: Chris
& Joe on the summit of Mont Blanc 4810m, ascent via
Traverse, descent via Gouter.
Why
you should climb with Icicle
Experience: Icicle
has been offering guided ascents on Mont Blanc for
over two decades now, and so we have excellent
local contacts and detailed knowledge of conditions
to optimise your summitting chances, not to mention
being highly aware of the objective risks, and how best to keep you safe too.
Contacts: It
is through these local connections that we can sometimes
be very flexible with our itinerary to enable you
to attempt Mont Blanc on almost any day of your
course, once you are acclimatised and ready, and if requested can book extra hut nights for training climbs even during the week.
Permits: For the past few years, a new 'permit' system was introduced
on Mont Blanc, where proof of hut bookings was required
and checked by Gendarmierie on the mountain. This
changed nothing for our groups, as hut spaces are
guaranteed. It does help enforce a 1:2 guiding ratio
(1:1 on Traverse) for safety.
Flexibility: After
the first training day at a 1:6 guiding ratio, you
have four days guiding at a 1:2 ratio. These four
days are more than any other operator provides,
and are essential to give you a little more flexibility on the mountain for making
your summit attempt, or adapting to suit your training needs.
Honest:Many of those who are thinking of booking a Mont Blanc trip, find our 'The Hard Facts' booklet a useful and honest reality check. We encourage all climbers to give it a read before they book; click
here. You won't find a more brutally honest, and realistic summary out there. If it puts you off an ascent, that's probably for the best for everyone. Mont Blanc isn't an ideal first 4000m peak, it's ascent has a potential of relatively high objective dangers, and it's physically harder than almost every climber thinks. Please read it!
Photo: Headtorches
of teams illuminating the route from the Col du Dome to
Vallot shelter and the summit ridge.
Our
ethics for Mont Blanc ascents
Ethics: We
only offer honest and ethical ascents of Mont Blanc.
Read
our blog post about it (click
here). We insist on a minimum age of 18 if unaccompanied, or 16 if they are climbing with their parent throughout the week. The ages are as per the start date of the course, to allow flexibility for summit days.
Season: Ascents
only offered when cable cars / trains are operating,
to avoid huge approach walks. The dates for the
Tramway Mont Blanc are mid June - mid September
(link).
This limits the core season to a 12 week period, but it maximises
your summit chances, and is the ethical way of operating.
Huts: On
the normal route there are two huts you could stay
in, the Tete Rousse 3167m (hut / base camp) or Gouter 3835m. To reach
the Tete Rousse takes approximately 2 hours from
the Nid d’Aigle, and the Gouter is a further
2 hour climb above. We also use the Gouter 3835m, Cosmiques 3613m, Tete Rousse 3187m (hut / base camp)
or Gonella 3071m, dependent on conditions, weather
and skills.
Principles: By
sticking with our principles, we are making the
summit a more realistic goal for you, and we are
focusing on safety. We believe that for those of
you who really do their research, you will be more
attracted to a company who wants you to succeed
more than the others. It isn’t therefore a
case of how often we operate this trip, but when
and how we operate it.
Photo:
Jo & Jonathan on the summit of Mont Blanc 4810m,
having climbed via the Gouter Route.
Brief Course Itinerary
Please
note that whilst the itinerary below is an ideal, the
weather and conditions, as well as your skills, fitness,
experience and acclimatisation all play a part too. In
our decade of experience, we have found that hardly two
weeks ever run the same, and even on a particular week
sometimes different summit groups go on different days
from different huts. Whilst the itinerary notes outline
this, it is imperitive that you understand how flexible
this course must be. You are dealing with the high mountains
and extreme altitude, not a prescribed coach tour!
Sunday
Travel to Chamonix to arrive for the 17:00 check-in
followed by and course safety and itinerary briefings.
There is time for kit checks or rental of equipment.
Briefings are over by 19:00 and then you are free to go out for dinner / drinks. Many clients opt
to travel out a day or two early to do an acclimatisation
weekend course to provide an extra night of accommodation,
and to ascend a 3000m peak. Night in Chamonix. Gallery: Chamonix town
Monday
Day
to learn and practice using crampons and ice axes
on the Mer de Glace glacier (2000m). You also climb
vertical ice, create ice anchors, and learn glacier
travel skills. This is one of your most important
days of the course in terms of skills development
as it is essential to have good footwork on Mont
Blanc. Guiding ratio 1:6 (max). Evening
theory session / meeting with course hosts: click
for info.
Night in Chamonix. Gallery: Mer de Glace
Tuesday
Acclimatisation
route to a summit. Continue to a mountain hut for
the night or return to Chamonix. The aim is to develop
your skills at altitude. The choice of the 1 or
2 day routes is made in reaction to which day you
attempt Mont Blanc, as we can alter the itinerary
to maximise your chances. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Evening
theory session / meeting with course hosts: click
for info.
Night in Chamonix or hut. Gallery: Cosmiques Arete
Wednesday
Acclimatisation
route to a summit. Either an Alpine start from the
mountain hut or a second acclimatisation route.
Typical routes for the last two days include Cosmiques
Arete, Gran Paradiso, Petite Verte, Pointe Lachenal
or Aiguille du Tour. Return to Chamonix to prepare
for Mont Blanc. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). Evening
theory session / meeting with course hosts: click
for info. Night in Chamonix. Gallery: Petite Aiguille Verte
Thursday
Equipment
and bag checks before you set off to climb up to
one of the high huts, either the Cosmiques / Gonella
/ Gouter / Tête Rousse hut for the night.
Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). The choice of route that
you take on Mont Blanc, and which hut(s) you stay
in is a function of the weather, conditions, and
your skills and fitness. Often different teams suit
different plans to maximise their summit chances.
Night in hut on Mont Blanc. Gallery: Mont Blanc Gouter
Friday
Summit
Mont Blanc 4810m from an Alpine start from the high
hut, and descend to Chamonix. It
is usual to reach the summit just after sunrise,
to take advantage of the best snow conditions, and
to minimise the risks of stonefall or late afternoon
storms. Reach valley afternoon, celebrations in
the evening. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). In the evening there are optional drinks and a celebratory
meal. Final night in Chamonix. Gallery: Mont Blanc Gonella
Saturday
Breakfast then the accommodation check out is by
10:00. Most arrange their transfers for around this
time for a flight from Geneva about midday. Some
people opt to book a tandem paraglider flight in
the morning to celebrate the weeks efforts, and
prices for this are from 100€ for a c.30 minute
flight. These flights can be booked in resort up
to the day before you wish to fly. Depart for home. Gallery: Icicle Windermere office
ITINERARY
NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain
adventures are weather and conditions dependant, so occasionaly
we are forced to alter the plans. If this is the case,
suitable alternatives are offered. Please use this itinerary
as a guide to the types of route / activity you attempt.
THE ITALIAN JOB: This itinerary lists enough options to be operated completely in Italy, for those who do not wish to visit France, and the course can be operated from Courmayeur instead of Chamonix, with the summit attempt made via the Gonella route. Contact us for availability and prices of this option.
Photo: Climbers
arriving at the Gouter mountain hut, which is on the most
popular route choice for our teams.
Meet
our team to answer your queries
Before
your ascent of Mont Blanc, you'll doubtless have loads
of queries that pop into your head. Many people find that
to speak to someone face to face is far easier and more
informative that hundreds of e-mails, so we offer 3
options; Book in a meeting with a course advisor in our Windermere office, Attend an open evening on an UK
Alpine Training weekend course, Join one of our pre-trip Zoom / Facebook meetings and presentations. Human - it's
what sets us apart from web-based
companies. Meet the real people in a real UK office, who
you speak to on the phone, who answer your queries, and
who are there to help manage logistics both before and
during your trip. Our infrastructure is tangibly
there to support you from start to finish.
Photo: Interior
of the new Gouter mountain hut, showing the sleeping pods,
and beds with pillows and duvets.
Course
Prices
Standard
course
5
days guiding, 7 days holiday in total
£1799
Live
availability
Click
on the planner logo to the right to
see the real time live course availability
Standard
Course Inclusions: 1) IFMGA Mountain Guide
for five days, 2) Chamonix course hosts for logistics
& briefings, 3) Evening technical instruction / briefing
sessions, 4) Twin / double room self-catered accommodation
in Chamonix (inc. linen, bedding & towels) for the
whole week, so you don't move out when in huts, 5) One
night half board in mountain hut / base camp on Mont Blanc
for you and guide, 6) Pre course information booklet,
7) Equipment discount voucher for our UK shop, 8) Free
36 page technical Course Instruction Booklet, 9) Road
transport in Chamonix valley, 10) Icicle discounts privilege
QR code list for reductions in local shops and restaurants
in Chamonix.
Exclusions:
1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Equipment hire, 3)
Cable cars & uplift (c. 120 euros depending on itinerary),
4) Optional second or more nights (not normally required)
in a mountain hut / base camp on a half board basis for
you and guide, 5) Personal laundry, telephone calls, lunches,
evening meals in valley, & any purchases in mountain
huts / hotels / restaurants, 6) Road transport outside
Chamonix valley (not usually required), 7) Sunday pre-dinner
drinks & Friday celebratory meal & drinks, 8)
Activities insurance, & excess baggage charges.
Notes:
This course assumes 1:2 guiding from Tuesday to Friday,
after a shared glacier day of up to 1:6 ratio on the Monday.
Note that in the exceptionally rare occasion where is
there is just one person booked on a course, less 1:1
guiding days can be offered, however accommodation will
be provided for the whole week, and guiding options and
locations will be discussed with you within the budget
paid.
Course
upgrade options
Many clients on this
trip consider upgrading with one or more of
the following course additions...
Private
room
Big
5 Alpine
extensions
Technical
kit rental
Acclimatise
weekend
Upgrade
to single from
£300-£500 in addition to
standard course price,
depending on week.
Extend by 2 days after
to ascend one of the
Big 5 Alpine peaks as
an extra summit.
Rent all technical kit
for a week. Full Alpine
Bundle costs you just
£100 for the week.
Saturday
night spent in
Chamonix, with choice
of self-guided or guided
on Sunday. From £50.
Standard
course accommodation - normally clients are based
in self-catered flats (details),
so take a look, and decide if it's for you. For
more luxury, contact us for quotes in higher standard
apartments, or hotels of any standard required.
If you have / source your own course accommodation,
or we cannot provide an upgrade, the standard course
price has a £100pp reduction applied on your
invoice.
What kit do you pack for climbing Mont Blanc?
Current
course availability
Course Dates Mont Blanc
[ 0 ] 21 - 27 Aug 2022
[ 0 ] 28 Aug - 3 Sep 2022
[ 0 ] 4 - 10 Sep 2022
Scheduled
courses
Price: £1799Book
online Bespoke
course? If your ideal date is showing
as full on the list above, get in contact,
as we also offer private 1:2 and 1:1
trips on any date during the season, subject to availability.
The 1:1 price is £2999, and the
1:2 price is £1999pp. To book
a bespoke 1:1 or 1:2 Mont Blanc trip, get in touch with your ideal dates.
An
action filled week, and a perfect ending
reaching the summit of Mont Blanc
on a clear day. From the top we could
see hundreds of miles Alan
N , Mont Blanc Summit
Climbing
Mont Blanc was harder than I thought,
but so rewarding too Sally
P , Mont Blanc Summit
100%
summit, 100% happy, 100% thanks! A
once in a lifetime holiday.
I can't explain how much your support
and knowledge meant to me. It gave me
a total sense of confidence and trust,
which was essential during the final
steps Steve
R , Mont Blanc Summit
The
trips are based in the Chamonix valley in the French Alps,
at the foot of Mont Blanc. It is easily accessed via a
90 minute transfer from Geneva airport.
Time
Difference
GMT +1hr
Local
Currency
€ Euros
Travel
from UK
1hr flight
Films
from the summit
Buy key items for this trip
FREE post for
UK orders over £30 FREE Icicle
neck gaiter for
orders over £50
Shopping
cart
Click
above to view online shopping
basket & pay.
Mont
Blanc guidebook
£21.95
BD
Cosmo headtorch
£29.99
Camp
Armour helmet
£49.00
Extremities
Guide glove
£29.99
Chamonix
3630OT map
£11.95
Grivel
G12 crampons
£150.00
Grivel
Air Tech Evo axe
£130.00
BD
Epic 35l rucksack
£129.00
View
full course equipment list,
with examples of kit, click
here
Free
resources
FREE
Podcast Training
for Mont Blanc
A no holes barred podcast, to fully
explain what an ascent entails physically
and technically, including several examples
of hill training.
We
send a course specific equipment list to all those booking
on our courses, but due to the popularity of this course,
we outline a typical packing list for the Mont Blanc summit
day in the list below.
Basic
clothing - Light coloured long
sleeve wicking layer
- Schoeller / soft shell climbing trousers
- Mid layer fleece jacket / gillet
- Fleece hat and gloves, and sunhat / cap
- B3 leather / hybrid boots, and gaiters
Equipment - Harness, helmet, ice
axe (without leash)
- 12 point crampons andanti-balling plates
- 1 x 120cm Sling, 1 x karabiner, 1 x prussic
- Telescopic trekking poles with snow baskets
- Head torch (LED style is lightest type)
Altitude
gear - Synthetic or down insulation
jacket
- Goggles in case of high wind
- Neoprane face mask in case of wind
- Thick waterproof over gloves
- Windproof over trousers (eg PacLite)
General
kit - Close fitting sun glasses
(Factor 4 for snow)
- Pocket snacks for summit day (eg Haribos)
- Water bottle (bladder type may freeze)
- Rucksack (up to 35 litres max is ideal)
- Basic blister kit, Aspirin, suncream
Helicopter
to the hut?
Helicopter drops are not allowed in France,
but if you wish to avoid ascending the Gouter couloir,
or to save energy, you can now arrange to fly in and out
of the Gonella hut on the Italian route. This costs 300€
per flight (not included in the course price), and it
can carry up to 5 people and a pilot.
Is it cheating? No more than taking the cable car and
tramway on the Gouter route, or the cable car to Aiguille
du Midi. Start at Nice beach at a low tide if your ethics
are really that stringent.
Why
choose our trips?
See
our Mont Blanc blog, by clicking on the Word-press
logo to the right.
We
offer a range of courses to suit you, with 5, 6,
10 or 12 days of actual guiding for your ascent.
There isn't one plan that suits all.
Four days with extra guides (1:2) to make your ascent.
No operators offer as many days 1:2 guiding. Most
only offer 2 or 3 days 1:2.
Four days of 1:2 guiding, enable you to climb other
summits as well as Mont Blanc, rather than some
operatirs who use 4 days of a trip walking up and
down from huts!
We usually start from the high huts on Mont Blanc
(Gouter hut or the Cosmiques or Gonella), to give
you the shortest summit climb.
Itinerary
flexibility to allow you to take full advantage
of the weather windows on any day, to maximise your
summit chances.
Our
prices are fixed in £ Sterling, to protect
you from euro fluctuations, so you can budget accurately.
There
is a choice of routes to opt for, depending on the
weather, conditions, and your experience.
If
you don't choose us?
Some
of the downfalls of not booking with Icicle
for your Mont Blanc attempt are.....
Less
days with the potential for summit weather windows
= less chance of success.
Total itinerary flexibility to make your summit
attempt at the first weather window when ready.
Some operators make you check out of your valley
accommodation when you are in huts!
Why
others cost more
There's
many offerings out there that cost upwards of £600-£1200
more than us. Why? For luxury half board chalet accommodation.
We save you c.£100 per night on these prices. A
bed is a bed, so we include accommodation, that is functional
with basic self-catering facilities. That's quite some
dinner and drinks you could have for the c.£100
per night savings, or you could keep your hard earned
money in your bank account instead!
Prefer a virtual ascent?
Google
Streetview and Mammut 360 provide images of virtual ascents,
so you can 'climb', from your sofa ;-) Click on the images
below to link...
Any
further questions?
A
key part of choosing a company is being able to come and
talk about your plans with an experienced course advisor
face to face. In an increasingly virtual world, we know
our clients value speaking to real people, getting open
and honest advice. The vast majority of our clients are
British, and our office and outdoor store is based in
Windermere in the English Lake District. Arrange a meeting,
and come in for a coffee to discuss your course in person
with a trip
advisor. Many people opt for this service,
and it is an integral part of what we offer, to ensure
that you are prepared as possible.
As
well as talking though your course, most clients have
queries about the kit they will require, to avoid expensive
mistakes, and we can show you some examples of that to
consider. Others have training queries, about how to best
prepare for your trip, and we will be able to steer you
in the right direction. No question is too silly, and
we'll have heard them all before! An integral part of
booking is the ability to get good knowledgable advice,
and a highly personal service. Unlike companies that only
exist virtually in cyberspace, we are staffed by real
people, in a real office, who offer real honest advice.
Because we are tangible, we are accountable, and we take
great pride in that and the service that we offer you.
Get in touch to come in for a chat soon.
Feedback & photos from Mont Blanc summit... To read more specific feedback about this trip click
here.
"Excellent
photos! And what a fantastic trip! Memories that will last
forever! A huge thank you to the best team and to Icicle and
all our guides! Spot on!" Jo W, Mont Blanc
"Low
on frills. High on skills. A no-nonsense week exactly as you
advertised. Great team both on and off the mountain, who all
made it happen for us" Stephen R, Mont Blanc
"So
happy to have reached the summit. Gio was a great guide, who
took care of us, and always made us feel safe. We couldn't
have do it without him" Sophie McM, Mont Blanc
"Just
wanted to say a massive thanks (and to the other guys in the office
and the guides) on behalf of me and A, for your support and advice
during the week, and for rearranging the schedule and sorting the
extra night in Gouter at such short notice to allow us to summit safely.
I know that must have been a challenge and just wanted to say it was
much appreciated. We had a fantastic time - a really tough challenge,
but you guys made it so much better and took a lot of the worry and
stress away. Hope to see you again on another trip somewhere" Vinny H, Mont Blanc
Mountain Training w/e
