Summit:
Mont Blanc 4810m is the highest summit in
Western Europe. To get to the 'roof of Europe',
we normally ascend by either the 'Traverse'
route of the Trois Mont Blanc from the Midi,
the Gonella route from the Italian Val Veny,
or via the classic Gouter route.
Skills:
For the Mont Blanc ascent you need excellent
fitness, stamina and determination. You do
not necessarily need any previous crampon
or altitude experience, though it would be
a real bonus. Any skills you have will help,
as well as great balance combined with the
ability to move quickly and efficiently over
broken mountain terrain is essential. You
should be confident on steep ridges, but don't
worry as you are taught all the necessary
ropework and skills during the week.
Effort:
Due to the altitude and the length of the
climb, we never declare the ascent to be easy.
It is an unforgettable experience to reach
the summit, and you will test the skills you
have learnt along the way.
Acclimatisation:
This course is focused on you summitting Mont
Blanc, with other summits and nights spent
at altitude to increase acclimatisation. There
is a dedicated information page for Mont Blanc:
summit
focus,
which details the experience and fitness required
for the climb.
Instruction:
A
principal feature of this course are the evening
theory sessions, where you are taught everything
from knots and ropework, to crevasse rescue
hoist systems, to avalanche prediction. This
means that your climbing time during the daylight
hours with the IFMGA qualified guides is optimised.
Dates:
these
are listed in the column on the right, and
they show the live availability from our secure
online booking system. When you book online,
you receive immediate confirmation, your Alpine
Information Booklet, course specific kit list
and invoice.
PHOTO:
Chris & Joe on the summit of Mont Blanc 4810m, ascent
via Traverse, descent via Gouter.
Why
you should climb with us
Ethics:
We
only offer honest and ethical ascents of Mont Blanc.
Read
our blog post about it (click
here). Here are our key ethical standards for
these ascents, which incredibly many operators ignore...
Season:
Ascents
only offered when cable cars / trains are operating,
to avoid huge approach walks. In 2017 the dates
for the Tramway Mont Blanc are 17 June - mid September
(link),
and we avoid the first and last weeks of the tramway
open season to allow for delayed opening / early
closure due to snowfalls.
Huts:
On
the normal route there are two huts you could stay
in, the Tete Rousse 3167m or Gouter 3835m. To reach
the Tete Rousse takes approximately 2 hours from
the Nid d’Aigle, and the Gouter is a further
2 hour climb above. All our Mont Blanc courses usually
have spaces booked in the Gouter hut, to make the
summit day shorter, and therefore easier. Occasionally
we also use the Cosmiques 3613m, Tete Rousse 3187m
or Gonella 3071m, dependent on conditions, weather
and skills.
Principles:
By
sticking with our principles, we are making the
summit a more realistic goal for you, and we are
focusing on safety. We believe that for those of
you who really do their research, you will be more
attracted to a company who wants you to succeed
more than the others. It isn’t therefore a
case of how often we operate this trip, but when
and how we operate it.
Experience:
Icicle
has been offering guided ascents on Mont Blanc for
well over a decade now, and so we have excellent
local contacts and detailed knowledge of conditions
to optimise your summitting chances, not to mention
being highly aware of risks to keep you safe too.
Contacts:
It
is through these local connections that we can be
very flexible with our itinerary to enable you to
attempt Mont Blanc on almost any day of your course,
as we can arrange spaces in mountain huts or on
cable cars at very short notice, even in the key
summer season.
Flexibility:
After
the first training day at a 1:6 guiding ratio, you
have four days guiding at a 1:2 ratio. These four
days are more than any other operator provides,
and are essential to give you flexibility for making
a summit attempt on the first weather window.
PHOTO:
Jo & Jonathan on the summit of Mont Blanc 4810m,
having climbed via the Gouter Route.
Brief Course Itinerary
Please
note that whilst the itinerary below is an ideal, the
weather and conditions, as well as your skills, fitness,
experience and acclimatisation all play a part too. In
our decade of experience, we have found that hardly two
weeks ever run the same, and even on a particular week
sometimes different summit groups go on different days
from different huts. Whilst the itinerary notes outline
this, it is imperitive that you understand how flexible
this course must be. You are dealing with the high mountains
and extreme altitude, not a prescribed coach tour!
Sunday
Travel to Chamonix to arrive for the 17:00 check-in
followed by and course safety and itinerary briefings.
There is time for kit checks or rental of equipment.
Briefings are over by 19:00 and the team accompany
the group to pre-dinner drinks. Many clients opt
to travel out a day or two early to do an acclimatisation
weekend course to provide an extra night of accommodation,
and to ascend a 3000m peak. Night in Chamonix.
Monday
Day
to learn and practice using crampons and ice axes
on the Mer de Glace glacier (2000m). You also climb
vertical ice, create ice anchors, and learn glacier
travel skills. This is one of your most important
days of the course in terms of skills development
as it is essential to have good footwork on Mont
Blanc. Guiding ratio 1:6 (max).
Evening
theory session / meeting with course hosts: click
for info.
Night in Chamonix.
Tuesday
Acclimatisation
route to a summit. Continue to a mountain hut for
the night or return to Chamonix. The aim is to develop
your skills at altitude. The choice of the 1 or
2 day routes is made in reaction to which day you
attempt Mont Blanc, as we can alter the itinerary
to maximise your chances. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max).
Evening
theory session / meeting with course hosts: click
for info.
Night in Chamonix or hut.
Wednesday
Acclimatisation
route to a summit. Either an Alpine start from the
mountain hut or a second acclimatisation route.
Typical routes for the last two days include Cosmiques
Arete, Gran Paradiso, Petite Verte, Pointe Lachenal
or Aiguille du Tour. Return to Chamonix to prepare
for Mont Blanc. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max).
Evening
theory session / meeting with course hosts: click
for info.
Night in Chamonix.
Thursday
Equipment
and bag checks before you set off to climb up to
one of the high huts, either the Cosmiques / Gonella
/ Gouter / Tête Rousse hut for the night.
Guiding ratio 1:2 (max). The choice of route that
you take on Mont Blanc, and which hut(s) you stay
in is a function of the weather, conditions, and
your skills and fitness. Often different teams suit
different plans to maximise their summit chances.
Night in hut on Mont Blanc.
Friday
Summit
Mont Blanc 4810m from an Alpine start from the high
hut, and descend to Chamonix. It
is usual to reach the summit just after sunrise,
to take advantage of the best snow conditions, and
to minimise the risks of stonefall or late afternoon
storms. Reach valley afternoon, celebrations in
the evening. Guiding ratio 1:2 (max).
In the evening there are optional drinks and a celebratory
meal. Final night in Chamonix.
Saturday
Breakfast then the accommodation check out is by
10:00. Most arrange their transfers for around this
time for a flight from Geneva about midday. Some
people opt to book a tandem paraglider flight in
the morning to celebrate the weeks efforts, and
prices for this are from 100€ for a c.30 minute
flight. These flights can be booked in resort up
to the day before you wish to fly. Depart for home.
ITINERARY
NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain
adventures are weather and conditions dependant, so occasionaly
we are forced to alter the plans. If this is the case,
suitable alternatives are offered. Please use this itinerary
as a guide to the types of route / activity you attempt.
Course
Prices 2017
Standard
course
5
days guiding, 7 days holiday in total
£1499
Live
availability
Click
on the planner logo to the right to
see the real time live course availability
Standard
Course Inclusions: 1) IFMGA Mountain Guide
for five days, 2) Chamonix course hosts for logistics
& briefings, 3) Evening technical instruction / briefing
sessions, 4) Twin / double room B&B accommodation
in Chamonix (inc. linen, bedding & towels) for the
whole week, so you don't move out when in huts, 5) One
night half board in mountain hut / base camp on Mont Blanc
for you and guide, 6) Pre course information booklet,
7) Equipment discount voucher for our UK shop, 8) Free
36 page technical Course Instruction Booklet, 9) Road
transport in Chamonix valley, 10) Icicle discounts privilege
QR code list for reductions in local shops and restaurants
in Chamonix.
Exclusions:
1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Equipment hire, 3)
Cable cars & uplift (c. 80 euros depending on itinerary),
4) Optional second or more nights (not normally required)
in a mountain hut / base camp on a half board basis for
you and guide, 5) Personal laundry, telephone calls, lunches,
evening meals in valley, & any purchases in mountain
huts / hotels / restaurants, 6) Road transport outside
Chamonix valley (not usually required), 7) Sunday pre-dinner
drinks & Friday celebratory meal & drinks, 8)
Activities insurance, & excess baggage charges.
Course
upgrade options
Many clients on this
trip consider upgrading with one or more of
the following course additions...
Private
room
Matterhorn
extension
Half
board
Acclimatise
weekend
Upgrade
from shared to
single from £150 in
addition to course price,
depending on week.
Two
day extension; 1:1
for £999, to ascend via
the Hornli Arete or the
Italian (Lion) ridge.
Upgrade
from B&B to
have 3 course evening
meals in Chamonix for
5 nights for £99pp.
Saturday
night spent in
Chamonix, with choice
of self-guided or guided
on Sunday. From £50.
Scheduled
courses
Price: £1499Book
online Bespoke
course? If your ideal date is showing
as full on the list above, get in contact,
as we also offer private 1:2 and 1:1
trips on any date during the season.
The 1:1 price is £2299, and the
1:2 price is £1649pp. To book
a bespoke 1:1 or 1:2 Mont Blanc trip,
book one place on the 1:1 course (click
for link) and we will
adapt the invoice.
