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| Frequently
asked questions about Mont Blanc ascents |
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| This
page answers the questions that we are most frequently asked
by those who have never been on an Icicle course before. Some
of the questions would make a White
House
Press Secretary look for an easier job, whilst others will probably
make you laugh. At least you can learn from it all, and if you
still have any queries after reading this, then please send
us an e-mail, or call. |
|
| Index
of questions
- just click on the question below that you are looking
for the answer to... |
| CATEGORY |
QUESTIONS |
LINKS |
| Skills
& Training (4) |
Will
my skills be enough for summit success?
What level of fitness do I need for a course?
Is it like the accounts I've read on the internet?
Can
smokers climb Mont Blanc? |
click
here
click
here
click
here
click
here |
| Equipment
(3) |
Do
I need to spend lots on buying equipment?
What boots are suitable for my course?
Will I require a sleeping bag for any nights? |
click
here
click
here
click
here |
| Weather
& Altitude (3) |
What
about a weather window for a summit bid?
In what ways will high altitude affect me?
How about taking Diamox for the altitude? |
click
here
click
here
click
here |
| Insurance
(1) |
What
type of insurance do I need for a course? |
click
here |
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Will
my skills be enough
for summit success?
Do
you want percentages and statistics, or to be told you have
an excellent chance? Very
few clients like to be told that
they are the greatest variable in the equation, but it is true.
For each course we outline the level of previous skills or experience
that is required for an ascent. If you approach us stating that
you have never worn crampons, but "are a fast learner",
you have definately lessened your chances of summit success.
When anyone comes to us with a similar statement to this we
draw their attention to these facts, but as long as other competant
clients are not affected in any way, we let each client decide
if they meet the pre-requisites for the course, or choose to
ignore them. The other main personal factor if your physical
condition. This is tackled by another question on this page.
If you are in any doubt as to the level of your skills, then
either consider a longer course, or perhaps a few days of refresher
or acclimatisation training before the course. |
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What
about a
weather window for a summit
bid?
In
our experience there is on average only one week a year when
the
chosen summit cannot be reached, and other
safe objectives are offered. We
know the local weather systems and conditions so well, that
if there is any possibility of an ascent, we will select the
best option. In addition, our local presence gives us a massive
amount of greater flexibility, in terms of changing
hut and cable car bookings. This is a key factor that
gives us better summiting records than any other
operator. In addition we
carefully schedule
each course to only operate in the periods of best weather and
conditions and all the
courses have carefully planned itineraries,
designed to build your stamina and skills. Our aim is to make
you achieve your goals in the safest and most enjoyable way.
However nothing in the world of mountaineering is guaranteed,
and our summiting record could never safely be 100%. If you
don't make the summit we also offer a second
attempt package for later in the season. |
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In
what
ways will high
altitude affect me?
If
you knew the answer to this
question, you probably would not need to book onto a course,
but as you are unsure about the effects of altitude, rest assured
that you are in the best qualified and most capable hands
of an IFMGA mountain guide, who has received specialist
altitude medicine and rescue training. To further put your mind
at rest, mountain rescue helicopters
can fly to any summit in the Alps, so a rescue off Mont Blanc
is possible. Altitude sickness affects people in different ways.
At altitude, you will notice the air is thinner, though most
of the feelings of nausea are due to the effort of the ascents.
Most people sleep very lightly at altitude, so we try to arrange
for alternate nights to be spent in the apartments in Chamonix. |
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What
level of fitness do I need for a course?
The
fitter you are, the enjoyment you derive from the course
will increase. The ‘Course Information Pack’
that you receive upon booking includes training advice.
If you are in any doubt as to the demands of any course,
or your training methods, then look at the
following page; Training
Page, for
information and advice.
Inevitably, some clients, doubting their fitness or ability,
have chosen to pull out from summit attempts. If possible
we offer alternatives. For an attempt on Mont Blanc we
suggest that you are capable of running a half marathon
in a respectable time (c. 1hr 45mins). Many people ignore
this, especially those who have been to a higher mountain,
such as Kilimanjaro, as they try to compare the summit
days. One mountain is a tough hike on the final day, and
you could almost do it in trainers. The other involves
the use of axe and crampons just to get to the hut, and
all the time above it. These peaks are |
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| not
comparable in any way. Almost anyone can ascend Kilimanjaro,
but only those who have trained well have a good chance on Mont
Blanc. Don't train for the minimum and hope you will get away
with it. You've read it here that an ascent of Mont Blanc will
probably be the toughest physical effort of your life. Don't
ignore this. |
|
How
about taking Diamox for the altitude?
No,
no, no! Does that answer it? For the height of Mont Blanc, the
benefits of taking Diamox are far outweighed by the side effects.
Diamox is a drug that aids the body to acclimatise faster than
naturally, but if you are worried about this, it is a lot simpler
to book on our acclimatisation weekends instead. Also you must
not take high doses of Asprin whilst taking Diamox, as the combination
can be fatal. The key side effects of Diamox are frequent urination
(it is a diuretic prescribed for those with fluid retention)
which is an issue for climbers in terms of getting cold and
dehydrated, parethesias (pins and needles sensations, and hot
aches), a loss of appetite, nausea, vomiting, diarrohea, sluggishness,
drowsiness and confusion. With that list, who in their right
mind would even consider it for a relatively low altitude such
as Mont Blanc. |
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Do
I need to spend lots on buying equipment?
NO
YOU DO NOT. We cannot stress this enough, as many people (probably
most) spend far too much on the kit they buy before a course.
Guiding is expensive (they are paid over £250 a day),
and we have no wish for the expense of equipment to put people
off climbing with Guides who are the qualified and experienced
climbers in the world. A lot of clients use booking on a course
as an excuse to treat themselves to loads of new kit, but that
is their choice, and for most courses we require you to arrive
with nothing more technical than the clothing you would go winter
walking in the UK in. You can rent everything from boots to
jackets, rucksacks to ice axes and crampons. Our Chamonix office
hires a large range of equipment from only £5 per item
a week. Click
HERE for hire equipment list.
Compare a £20 hire bill of modern kit, to a £1000
shop bill for items that will be outdated in a couple of seasons.
One item that people often forget is a long sleeved base layer
top, in order to protect your arms from abrasion against rock
/ snow, and from sunburn. |
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What
boots are suitable for my course?
This
is probably our most commonly asked question, so we have produced
a specific page to answer these queries. The link is Key
Alpine Kit. The simple answer
to the question above is as follows. On every course we operate
(ignoring ski courses, where ski boots or ski mountaineering
boots are necessary), you will require fully stiffened mountaineering
boots. The ideal boot classification category is B3, which means
that the boot sole unit is rigid. These types of boots accept
all types of crampon, and do not flex at all. If you are considering
buying boots for mountaineering, they must be B3, and good examples
are the Sportiva Nepal Extreme, the Salomon Pro Thermics, or
the Scarpa Alpha / Vega boots. For expeditions or for winter
climbing plastic boots are generally better due to their greater
waterproof and thermal qualities. If you are in any doubt as
to the suitability of your boots, we advise you to take them
on the course, and the Reps will check your equipment. If they
consider the boots unsuitable, they will advise you to hire
some boots for approximately £5 per day. The most common
reasons that we reject boots on courses are that they are too
flexible to accept crampons, and if they have too little thermal
qualities to keep your feet warm / free of frostbite. |
|
Is
it like the accounts I've read on the internet?
We
get several enquires each year that ask something along the
lines of "I've read on the internet that the ascent can
be very busy with lots of stress and impatience. I don't want
to encounter this. Is it true, and how do I avoid it?",
and our response is as follows... The huts on Mont Blanc are
only open from early June to late September each year for summer
ascents, and they are pre-booked and full every day of the season.
We book our hut spaces up to a year in advance to guarantee
our spaces. Mid week is just as busy as the weekends or holidays.
It is a busy mountain, but you will only encounter issues of
crowding if you are not really the level of fitness required
for the ascent. Well trained and acclimatised guided groups
tend to leave behind the inexperienced, unfit, or poorly acclimatised
(generally unguided) groups. There are a few sections on the
ascent where it pays huge dividends to have timed the ascent
well and respected the suggested timings as each guide explains
to their clients. These are the summit ridge which is narrow
and exposed, and the Gouter couloir. If you are slow you arrive
at the summit ridge late and have the worrying passing of inexperienced
climbers with dangerous ropework to negotiate, then you arrive
back at the Gouter hut later and have to cross the Gouter couloir
later when the temperature is higher and there is a greater
risk of rockfall. The nightmare stories on the internet are
99% written by people who have made scary errors during their
ascent, and who are the cause of the issues that they write
about. A well guided ascent of clients who have trained well
and are acclimatised should be slick, successful and involve
no epics! |
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Can
smokers climb Mont Blanc?
Some
of the guides smoke (a tiny minority), but their fitness and
acclimatisation is second to none. Some facts can not be ignored.
In smokers the rate of decline of lung capacity can be three
time the usual rate. This is because the tar on the surface
of the lungs reduces the capacity for gas exchange. As lung
function declines, breathlessness begins. Smoking produces more
carboxyhemoglobin, which means that it removes a percentage
of the hemoglobin from active oxygen transport. In effect this
moves the oxygen dissociation curve to the left, when a right
shift is required for acclimatisation. Smoking at altitude causes
hypoxemia, which will restrict the individuals ability to adapt
to the reduced oxygen tensions. In other words smoking inhibits
the ability to acclimatise. In our experience we have seen many
smokers succeed on Mont Blanc, but there have been some notable
failures to acclimatise. On the other hand, there is some medical
advice that suggests that people who give up smoking for a few
weeks before their ascent significantly increase their chances.
It's up to you... |
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Will
I require a sleeping bag for any nights?
If
you are staying in mountain huts a sleeping bag is NOT necessary,
as the guardianned huts all provide enough blankets and sheets
to keep you warm. Some people opt to carry a sleeping bag liner
for hygiene reasons,
but realistically you are sleeping in a t-shirt and trousers
as a minimum, so this is a dispensible luxury. |
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What
type of insurance do I need for a course?
Our
Booking Conditions require all clients booking on a course to
arrange activities insurance as soon as their booking has been
confirmed (by e-mail or in writing). You must check that your
policy includes cover for the following: medical expenses, mountain
search & rescue, personal accident, money & documents,
any travel delay, personal liability, legal expenses & cancellation,
as well as other circumstances for which you require cover.
We recommend that you use BMC Alpine & Ski insurance: www.thebmc.co.uk
or 0870 010 48 78. It is highly unlikely that any non-specialist
climbing insurance will provide this level of cover. Upon arrival
on a course, you will be asked for documentary proof of your
activities insurance. Full details of the cover provided by
the BMC and Snowcard insurance policies are on the How
to Book page (click to link). |
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