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Climbing
Courses Equipment Lists
A
key concern of our clients is what equipment they should
bring on a course. This is a valid concern as we run everything
from ice climbing to Mont Blanc, and so the equipment
used on courses is different. This page will assist you
to plan what you need, and also how to save money. You
DO NOT need everything on this page, and you will be sent
a course specific kit list when you book on a course.
The
Basics...
The key equipment that you need to provide is exactly that
which you would wear for a day of winter hill walking in Scotland or the Lake
District. In other words you normally wear a wicking base layer, fleece jacket
and waterproof jacket. On your legs you wear trekking trousers (with waterproof
over-trousers if cold or wet), and gaiters. As with walks in the UK, the most
important factor is that you have well fitting boots, especially if you are on
a course with long ascent days (blisters could stop you climbing).
Layering...
The key to selecting your clothing is a layering system
to allow for the wide temperature range. In other words a thick lined jacket over
a t-shirt is not as effective or versatile as thin base and fleece layers, with
a shell jacket. The layering system should be applied to the hands, feet and legs
as well as your torso. For all the reasons mentioned here, we warn against any
cotton material clothing, and 'wet when warm' systems such as Buffalo for mountaineering
in the Alps.
Key
Variables ...
SEASONS: The summer Alpine season includes all courses running
from the end of May to the end of September. The winter Alpine season runs between
December and March, though the coldest months are December and January when the
days are shortest. INDIVIDUALS: In identical conditions some people will be
comfortable in a waterproof shell with a fleece layer underneath, whilst others
may overheat. Only you know how you react to heat, cold, wind and wet, so adapt
the kit list to how you normally dress. TEMPERATURE: In summer it may be 35°
in the valley and -25° on Mont Blanc, so you have to take into account a 60°
change in temperature. In winter the valley is 0°, & you generally loose
10° for every 1000m height gain. Also factor in the likely wind chill.
Save
Money ...
Unless you plan to climb several times a year, it may not
be cost effective to buy all the equipment. The Guides supply the ropes, and ice
/ rock protection (and ARVA's where applicable) on all the Guided days, so you
don't need any of that, unless you wish to learn how to use your own kit better.
Items such as harnesses, helmets, crampons, and ice axes can be hired from us
from £20 a week in total for these four items. If you are planning to buy
any kit, it is wise to wait until Chamonix, as it is often cheaper there than
the UK. The main exception to this rule is boots, which you need to break in well
before any course. Don't buy the most technical equipment immediately, as it may
be unsuitable for the easier graded climbs you plan to attempt first.
ITEM:
4 season leather boots or plastic boots, only graded
B3
REASON: this rating ensures that they're crampon compatable
EXAMPLE: Sportiva Nepal Extreme, Scarpa Alpha, Asolo
AFS
TIPS: only buy boots from a shop that has fitted them
for you
WARNING: B2's (Makalu's & Manta's) aren't warm /
stiff enough
COURSES: every course, apart from ski courses, need
these
SAVE: instead of buying, you can hire boots in Chamonix
Rock
Climbing
Shoes RECOMMENDATION
Scarpa Eclipse
RRP c.£65
ITEM:
comfortable & well worn in shoes, lace up / slipper
style
REASON: some courses involve rock climbing days in the
valley
EXAMPLE: 5:10's, Boreal, La Sportiva - all make similar
models
TIPS: buy rock shoes that aren't too tight, as these may
rub you
WARNING: on Alpine routes use shoes you can wear socks
in
COURSES:
you may even want these for evening wall climbing
SAVE: hire rock shoes in Chamonix for approx £4
each day
ITEM:
an Alpine climbing pack is small & has no side pockets
REASON: this is the maximum size needed for Alpine routes
EXAMPLE: Mammut Extreme 35, Lowe Alpine Attack 40
TIPS: if there are too many straps on the bag, take them
off
WARNING: unecessary straps may snag on technical routes
COURSES:
if you need a bigger bag you are carrying too much
SAVE: there are good own brand bags eg: Decathlon shops
Halogen
or LED
Head Torch - RENT
ITEM - RECOMMENDATION
Petzl Zipka
RRP c.£25
ITEM:
either halogen or LED bulb head torch + spare batteries
REASON: Alpine starts are (Mont Blanc at 1am) are very
dark
EXAMPLE: Petzl Zoom (Halogen) or Petzl Tikka (LED bulbs)
TIPS: make sure that your helmet has fittings for head
torches
WARNING: battery life can be affected by cold, so take
spares
COURSES:
useful on all courses, and for huts in the evenings
SAVE: LED head torches are more economical on battery
use
UV
Shades
or Mountain
Sunglasses RECOMMENDATION
Cebe Cecchinel
RRP c.£70
ITEM:
with side patches or wrap around, that are close fitting
REASON: unprotected snow glare can cause snow blindness
EXAMPLE: Bolle, Cebe, Julbo - whatever fits your face
best
TIPS: wear your glasses with a safety cord around the
back
WARNING: a bad fit can let glare or snow get in to your
eyes
COURSES:
these are needed on all courses, summer & winter
SAVE: don't go for expensive glasses, as they often get
broken
Pair
of
Trekking
Poles RECOMMENDATION
Leki Makalu's
RRP c.£30
ITEM:
should be bought in pairs with a choice of base fittings
REASON: poles help reduce the impact on knees on descents
EXAMPLE: Leki make the best range, with suspension springs
TIPS: you can climb with a pole in one hand & axe
in the other
WARNING: get three section poles as these compress better
COURSES:
you can use trekking poles for ski mountaineering
SAVE: Decathlon makes sturdy own brand poles that last
well
Personal
Hydration
System RECOMMENDATION
Platypus Hoser
RRP c.£14
ITEM:
these are plastic water pouches with pipes to drink from
REASON: you can drink on the move, & keep better hydrated
EXAMPLE: Platypus make a good range of hydration systems
TIPS: put sugary drinks in them to hinder them freezing
up high
WARNING: even insulated tubes will not stop the pipes
freezing
COURSES:
on long ski tours (Haute Route) these are good
SAVE: many shops make own brand hydtation systems now
Water
Bottle
or Flask - RENT
ITEM - RECOMMENDATION
Sigg 1.5 L Bottle
RRP c.£12
ITEM:
get two water containers, that are watertight (no leaks)
REASON: water in huts is often undrinkable, so carry over
1L
EXAMPLE: Sigg and Nalgene make the most durable bottles
TIPS: you can pay for hot water in huts to make tea for
climbs
WARNING: dehydration is a major cause of altitude sickness
COURSES:
stay hydrated on courses. Flasks good in winter
SAVE: plastic mineral water bottles will do the job just
as well
ITEM: 12 point mountaineering style (not technical crampons)
REASON: technicals aren't designed for walking & ball
up lots
EXAMPLE: Grivel G12's, Charlet Super 12's, or HB 12 Points
TIPS: depending on the boot design, choose step in's or
straps
WARNING: you will need anti-balling plates (or use Duck
tape)
COURSES:
these used on all our non technical / ice courses
SAVE: buying kit via mail order (eg Cotswold) saves money
ITEM:
step in style technical crampons with vertical front points
REASON: the points are for steep ice / very techncial
routes
EXAMPLE: Grivel Rambos, Charlet M10's, or Charlet Darts
TIPS: opt for metal toe bails for a very close / secure
fitting
WARNING: only use mono-points if the ice is in good condition
COURSES:
for use on all ice & extreme level winter courses
SAVE: you can get new front points, rather than new crampons
ITEM:
mountaineering style for classic routes (non-tech pick)
REASON: for classic techniques eg self arrest & step
cutting
EXAMPLE: Stubai Mountain Star, Grivel Jorasses or Air
Tech
TIPS: a lightweight axe doesn't last as long, but you
go faster
WARNING: do not put a leash on a classic mountain axe
COURSES:
these are used on all non techncial / ice courses
SAVE: semi-technical axes can be used on technical routes
Pair
of
Technical
Ice Tools - RENT ITEM
- RECOMMENDATION
Grivel Ergo Axes
RRP c.£260
ITEM:
these have reverse banana shaped technical ice picks
REASON: these hook into ice, & come in hammer / adze
pairs
EXAMPLE: Grivel Wings, Charlet Quarks, Simond Naja Cups
TIPS: use a leash on the weak hand, leashless on screw
hand
WARNING: carry an allen key to tighten any loose picks
up
COURSES:
these are used on all ice and technical courses
SAVE: buy changable picks, to extend the life of your
axes
Alpine
Safety
Harness - RENT
ITEM - RECOMMENDATION
Black Diamond Bod
RRP c.£40
ITEM:
comfortable and fully adjustable, made in an Alpine style
REASON: padding can get wet, then freeze, & make you
cold
EXAMPLE: DMM Alpine, BD Alpine Bod, or the Petzl Gourou
TIPS: for classic routes the weight is a key factor, as
is comfort
WARNING: make sure that you double back all buckle straps
COURSES:
these harnesses are more versitile than rock ones
SAVE: basic harnesses are cheap & best for mountaineering
ITEM:
a plastic / carbon fibre helmet with strap head cradle
REASON: there's always rock / icefall in the Alps to beware
of
EXAMPLE: Camp Rockstar, HB Olympus, Petzl Ecrin, Meteor
TIPS: check if the helmet adjusts to allow for hats underneath
WARNING: a badly fitting helmet could endanger your life
COURSES:
these are used on all our mountaineering courses
SAVE: essential piece of safety kit, & there's no
savings here!
ITEM:
long slings, 8ft circumference (4ft length), of sewn tape
REASON: long slings are essential kit for safety and rescues
EXAMPLE: most of the equipment manufacturers make slings
TIPS: a long sling can always be doubled up to make it
smaller
WARNING: be careful using slings over sharp edges of rock
COURSES:
carry slings carefully so crampons don't snag them
SAVE:make your own slings by buying & tying tape off
the reel
ITEM:
large sized screw gates are easy to handle with gloves
REASON: these are for personal safety kit to carry at
all times
EXAMPLE: choose a screw system that you find easy to use
TIPS: buy three karabiners (1 harness, 1 belay, 1 protection)
WARNING: avoid cross loading karabiners, as they may break
COURSES:
these are necessary for every one of our courses
SAVE: Own brand karabiners are cheaper, and just as strong
ITEM:
heat dissipating devices, for ropes in belaying or abseils
REASON: the devices control the rope, and so not damage
it
EXAMPLE: Black Diamond ATC, DMM Bug, Petzl Reverso
TIPS: when the ropes freeze, a figure 8 is much easier
to use
WARNING: be careful that the device you use doesn't overheat
COURSES:
learn how to use new devices before the course
SAVE: there is no need for both a belay device and a figure
of 8
Cord
Prussic
Loops x2 - RENT
ITEM - RECOMMENDATION
Edelrid 7mm cord
RRP c.£1 per metre
ITEM:
two tied loops of 30cm diameter, made of 7mm cord
REASON: auto-locking knots that can be used in emergencies
EXAMPLE: if making them, buy two 1.5m lengths of 7mm cord
TIPS: if you are unsure how to tie stopper knots, ask
a guide
WARNING: they must be correctly tied with double fishermans
COURSES:
these can also be used to fix broken crampons
SAVE: these are the cheapest, most useful, bits of kit
already!
ITEM:
screw in ice screw to use as protection or emergencies
REASON: screw in type does not require a hammer to place
it
EXAMPLE: the Grivel 360, or BD Express are quick to place
TIPS: get protectors for the bottom of the screw to protect
you !
WARNING: cheap ice screws are hard to place and may break
COURSES:
no need to bring any, as the Guides supply
these
SAVE: no savings here - good quality screws are easy to
place
ITEM:
Abalakov hook are 20cm+ wires with a hook on the end
REASON: hook retrieves cord through screw holes for a
belay
EXAMPLE: Simond make an Abalahook, and Grivel one too
TIPS: carry your Abalakov hook inside the tube of an ice
screw
WARNING: be careful that the hook doesn't snag your clothes
COURSES:
the Guides carry these, especially on ice courses
SAVE: use a spare length of stiff wire with a sharpened
end
ITEM:
a well maintained clean knife with fold away sharp blade
REASON: can be used in emergencies & for every day
tasks
EXAMPLE: Opinel knives now come with a lockable closure
TIPS: oil the hinges and ensure the knife is dry to avoid
rusting
WARNING: ensure that the blade cannot open accidentaly
COURSES:
not necessary for any courses - don't cut the rope!
SAVE: even small knifes cut a rope that is placed under
load
ITEM:
Appareil de Recheche des Victimes des Avalanches
REASON: device can be used to find buried victims locations
EXAMPLE: Ortovox F1, DTS Tracker - all 457kHz frequency
TIPS: practice using ARVA every week or two during season
WARNING: never use rechargeable batteries in ARVA devices
COURSES:
provided free whenever they are needed on courses
SAVE: no savings - cheap ARVA's may take too long to locate
ITEM:
collapsable probe, with central thread for construction
REASON: used to find avalanche victims after use of ARVA's
EXAMPLE: Ortovox or Black Diamond make the good probes
TIPS: buy probes with depth marks / colour coded sections
WARNING: carry your probe in an easily accessible location
COURSES:
provided free whenever they are needed on courses
SAVE: cheap probes break easily and are slower to construct
Avalanche
Rescue
Shovel RECOMMENDATION
Black Diamond - metal
RRP c.£40
ITEM:
collapsable handle / shovel, so they fit in your rucksack
REASON: to dig out avalanche victim after the use of ARVA
EXAMPLE: Ortovox and Black Diamond make the lightest
TIPS: carry the shovel in a easy to locate section of
your pack
WARNING: plastic shovels can break in hard snow / icy
blocks
COURSES:
provided free whenever they are needed on courses
SAVE: some shovels fit on to base of ice axes, to save
weight
Balaclava
Thermal
Hat RECOMMENDATION
Patagonia
RRP c.£15
ITEM:
a fleece balaclava that fits well underneath your helmet
REASON: on winter / altitude climbs, stops head from freezing
EXAMPLE: all the main manufacturers make their own models
TIPS: balaclava can be rolled up, to use like a normal
style hat
WARNING: even though your head is warm, check your nose
COURSES:
these are great on all ski, winter and ice courses
SAVE: the cheapest are about £5 from own brand outlets
ITEM:
goggles with a adjustable headband to allow for helmets
REASON: to stop spindrift from being blown into your eyes
EXAMPLE: Cebe, Scott, Oakley, and most ski manufacturers
TIPS: double lens goggles don't steam up as much as singles
WARNING: check the fit is good to stop air fogging them
COURSES:
on all altitude / winter courses, these are used
SAVE: cheap goggles can fit over UV shades to protect
them
Touring
Skis &
Skins RECOMMENDATION
Atomic & Black Diamond
RRP from c.£300
ITEM:
touring skis have hinged bindings to allow for ascents
REASON: hinges allow walking movement when skins are on
EXAMPLE: all ski manufacturers make good touring bindings
TIPS: skins vary in style for the usage that you will
require
WARNING: ensure you keeo the skins warm when not used
COURSES:
the Reps can get you a dicount on hiring these
SAVE: for the first times, hire touring skis to try several
types
ITEM:
snowshoes allow a non-skier to cross deep powder snow
REASON: the snowshoes base plate spreads your weight
EXAMPLE: GV Polar Trails, MSR Denali Evo's, or TSL 325's
TIPS: we have produced a snowshoe advice page at this
LINK
WARNING: snowshoes are not for climbing, but for trekking
COURSES:
for approaches on winter courses, & snowshoeing
SAVE: if you have never snowshoed before, rent these items
Emergency
Bothy
Shelter RECOMMENDATION
Outdoor Designs
RRP from c.£30
ITEM:
this is essentially an adapted tent flysheet without poles
REASON: in case of winter snow storm or emergency situation
EXAMPLE: Outdoor Designs make a good range of shelters
TIPS: these should be taken out on every day in the mountains
WARNING: try to avoid any emergency bivouac in the winter
COURSES:
guides carry this kit on many of the winter courses
SAVE: as this is a piece of safety equipment, don't scrimp
3
/ 4 Season
Sleeping
Bag RECOMMENDATION
ME Sleepwalker III
RRP c.£100
ITEM:
three season for Alpine summer, four season for winter
REASON: bivouacing can give more flexibility than the
refuges
EXAMPLE: good brands are Mountain Equipment & Ajungilak
TIPS: synthetic bags weigh a little more, but work even
if wet
WARNING: keep a down bag dry to ensure it keeps you warm
COURSES:
only on the Snowshelters course
and expeditions
SAVE: if you have a 2 season bag upgrade it with a fleece
liner
Goretex
Bivvy
Bag RECOMMENDATION
Rab Survival Zone Bivi
RRP c.£55
ITEM:
breathable bivvy bag, preferably of the all enclosable
type
REASON: this will keep you dry if wet and let condensation
out
EXAMPLE: good makes are Wild Country and Mountain Range
TIPS: don't even think about using a survival bag as a
bivvy bag
WARNING: dry out the bivvy bag after use to stop any mildew
COURSES:
only on Snowshelters &
Survival weekend course
SAVE: buy a cheap Goretex bag from military surplus for
£50
Thermal
Sleeping
Mat RECOMMENDATION
Thermarest Prolite 3
RRP c.£60
ITEM:
mat made of foam, or of the self inflating roll mat types
REASON: this serves to insulate you, and to be comfortable
EXAMPLE: Thermarest make the classic self inflating mats
TIPS: a mat is as important as the bag to stop you being
cold
WARNING: be careful the mat doesn't blow away in high
wind
COURSES:
only on the Snowshelters course
and expeditions
SAVE: a foam mat will never puncture, and costs £5
maximum
Alpine
Fleece
Jacket RECOMMENDATION
ME Windstopper
Guide
RRP c.£100
ITEM:
fleece is a light material with excellent thermal qualities
REASON: the most important parts of your layering system
EXAMPLE: Mountain Equipment do a great range of Aquafleece
TIPS: look for patches for hardwearing areas such as shoulders
WARNING: thin fleece often isn't windproof, unless windstopper
COURSES:
these are useful on all our courses & expeditions
SAVE: cheap fleeces are as good thermally, though weigh
more
Base
layer
thermals RECOMMENDATION
Quechua (Decathlon)
RRP c.£10
ITEM:
top should be long sleeved to protect your arms in a fall
REASON: you often only wear these when climbing on hot
days
EXAMPLE: Helly Hansen, Lowe, Mountain Hardwear, and TNF
TIPS: Don't ever plan to put on a thermal layer in mid
climb!
WARNING: make sure that you select a good wicking fabric
COURSES:
these are especially useful on winter & ice courses
SAVE: a cheaper alternative is a thin fleece top (Polartech
100)
Duvet
Jacket
or Vest RECOMMENDATION
Rab Peak Smock
RRP c.£150
ITEM:
useful as it is light, especially in bivvys & Alpine
starts
REASON: the warmth to weight ratio is unbeatable by fleece
EXAMPLE: North Face make good jackets, with stow pockets
TIPS: keep duvet dry in rucksacks by keeping it in a plastic
bag
WARNING: down looses its thermal capacities if it gets
wet
COURSES:
these are very recommended on all winter courses
SAVE: you can get ex-expedition duvet jackets at a good
price
Fleece
Hat &
Gloves RECOMMENDATION
Mountain Equipment
RRP c.£15
ITEM:
excellent for lightweight thermal capabilities, even if
wet
REASON: fleece is an efficient insulator and is quite
windproof
EXAMPLE: almost every manufacturer produces these now
TIPS: buy gloves with reinforced fingers / palms for durability
WARNING: don't loose fleece gloves, by tying them to jackets
COURSES:
these are used on every single one of our courses
SAVE: cheap brands eg Technique Extreme still do the job
Waterproof
Shell
Jacket RECOMMENDATION
ME Paclite 3 Firefly
RRP c.£165
ITEM:
a breathable windproof jacket is worn every Alpine day
REASON: the jacket is windproof & waterproof for when
in snow
EXAMPLE: most durable jackets are around the £200
mark
TIPS: repair any rips with Goretex patches or Gaffer Tape
WARNING: Goretex jackets need reproofing every year or
so
COURSES:
this is essential for every course we operate
SAVE: you rarely climb in the rain, so 3 layer fabrics
are OTT
Waterproof
Salopettes
or Trousers RECOMMENDATION
ME Drilite Plus Pant
RRP c.£60
ITEM:
essential for ice climbing, and when breaking trail in
snow
REASON: they stop legs from getting cold / wet, &
are durable
EXAMPLE: bib type salopettes eg TNF Mountain Salopettes
TIPS: choose salopettes with crampon patches on the inside
leg
WARNING: make sure that the leg bases can fit over your
boots
COURSES:
these are used an all winter, ski, and altitude trips
SAVE: cheap trousers won't last, but you won't cry if
they rip
Waterproof
Gloves
(not mitts) RECOMMENDATION
ME Guide Gloves
RRP c.£40
ITEM:
outer gloves should be able to fit over base layer gloves
REASON: their dexterity is far better than by using
full mitts
EXAMPLE: Extremities make a great range of durable gloves
TIPS: you can treat your gloves with re-waterproofing
products
WARNING: make sure that gloves are dried out after each
use
COURSES:
these are needed on every course that we operate
SAVE: some gloves are sold as a complete (3 layer) system
ITEM:
quality, well fitting, breathable gaiters of durable material
REASON: these stop snow or water getting into your boots
EXAMPLE: Mountain Hardwear venti-gaitors are durable &
fit well
TIPS: when the bottom strap wears out replace it with
wire
WARNING: gaiters should be worn all times if crampons
are on
COURSES:
needed for all courses. No Yeti gaiters in summer!
SAVE: half height gaiters are as efficient & good
in summers
Notes...
1)
Keep a list of important numbers (passport, cards etc) in case
of loss or theft.
2) If extending your stay, bring your own protection gear, ropes
etc, if you plan to climb.
3) Use this list in conjuction with the detailed itinerary (eg
if sleeping kit is required).
4) Classics, Summer Ice, Extreme etc: on these courses you require
technical Ice Axes* & Crampons*. Mountaineering crampons
& ice axes can be lent free if needed.
5) Ski touring courses require no Sleeping Kit, gaiters, or
mountain boots. You do require all the other equipment on this
list above, including all the Technical Kit. As well as these
bring touring skis & boots, skins, ski crampons, & skin
glue.
6) Off-piste courses only need to bring normal ski wear, including
goggles, poles, skis, boots, hydration system, rucksack, two
pairs of gloves, and a harness for glacier skiing.
7) Trekking and snowshoeing courses will not require the majority
of this equipment, but should have good hill walking clothing,
and well worn in boots.