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Alpine
Autonomy Techniques 2018
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Course
overview
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If
you have previous climbing or crampon
experience, and want a fast track course
that is designed to make you more autonomous
in the Alps, this is the course for
you. You cover all the technical syllabus
of the Introduction course in greater
detail, with greater focus on route
finding and equipment selection. |
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On
this course there is a real focus on
climbing in some of the most stunning
areas of the Mont Blanc massif, as well
as learning skills that will be useful
in your climbing after the course. The
course culminates in the ascent of a
quiet and remote summit, such as the
traverse of the Domes du Miages. |
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The
technical content will be tailored to
build on your current experience, with
an emphasis on glacier travel and crevasse
rescue on both dry and wet glaciers.
The course also covers a whole host
of ropework and Alpine safety issues
such as avalanche awareness, belays
and anchors, crampon and ice axe techniques. |
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This
course is set at just above the level
of the Introduction course (summer or
winter), so if you have a bit too much
experience (such as previous rock climbing
experience) this course is for you.
The vast majority of the routes ascended
are of the Alpine PD grade (roughly
equivalent to Scottish Grade II/III). |
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Many
clients are pleasantly surprised how
much chance they get to lead, and how
autonomous they really belome over the
week. We have seen several teams set
off to climb their first 4000m peaks
on their own, after the course, and
this course really is a complete Alpine
apprenticeship that works. |
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Dates:
these
are listed in the column on the right,
and they show the live availability
from our secure online booking system.
When you book online, you receive immediate
confirmation, your Alpine Information
Booklet, course specific kit list and
invoice. |
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Brief
Course Itinerary
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Sunday
Travel to Chamonix to arrive for the 17:00
check-in followed by and course safety and
itinerary briefings. There is time for kit
checks or rental of equipment. Briefings are
over by 19:00 and the team accompany the group
to pre-dinner drinks. Many clients opt to
travel out a day or two early to do a two
day acclimatisation weekend course to provide
an extra night in a hut, and to ascend a 3000m
peak. Night in Chamonix. |
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Monday
Day
to learn and practice using crampons and ice
axes on the Mer de Glace glacier (2000m).
You also climb vertical ice, create ice anchors,
and learn glacier travel skills. This is one
of your most important days of the course
in terms of skills development as it is essential
to have good footwork on Mont Blanc. Guiding
ratio 1:6 (max).
Evening
theory session / meeting with course hosts:
click
for info.
Night in Chamonix. |
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Tuesday
Alpine
ridge route, such as the Traverse of Aiguille
du Crochues, to focus on ropework, moving
together, anchors, and the assessment of objective
dangers. The
route chosen for this day is generally a mixed
route that is ascended in mountain boots rather
than in rock shoes. Guiding ratio 1:3 (max).
Evening
theory session / meeting with course hosts:
click
for info.
Night in Chamonix. |
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Wednesday
Today
you really progress your altitude snowskills
with an ascent of another peak, such as the
Petite Aiguille Verte, and all skills previously
learnt will be tested. This style of route
will really work on your crampon skills and
the selection of snow belays on steeper ground.
Guiding ratio 1:3 (max).
Evening
theory session / meeting with course hosts:
click
for info.
Night in Chamonix. |
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Thursday
The
start of a two day route with a night in a
mountain hut, or a day route. It's up to you
to decide the itinerary for the last two days
of this course. Typically groups ascend the
Domes du Miages, Aiguille du Tour, Petite
Forche, or Mont Blanc du Tacul, and the route
chosen is a reflection of your autonomy skills
development and of the weather and mountain
conditions.
Guiding ratio 1:3 (max).
Night in mountain hut / Chamonix. |
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Friday
If
you opted for a two day route, then today
will be an Alpine start from the mountain
hut to ascend one of the peaks mentioned on
the previous day, or it could also be another
day route if you have opted for that. After
the main ascent of the week, you descend back
to the Chamonix valley. Guiding ratio 1:3
(max).
Evening social drinks, then a celebratory
meal, with the final night spent in Chamonix. |
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Saturday
Breakfast
then the accommodation check out is by 10:00.
Most arrange their airport transfers to leave
around this time, to catch a flight from Geneva
about midday.
Depart for home.
Some people opt to book
a tandem paraglider flight in the morning
to celebrate the weeks efforts, and prices
for this are from 90€ for a c.30 minute
flight. These flights can be booked in resort
up to the day before you wish to fly. Depart
for home. |
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| ITINERARY
NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain
adventures are weather and conditions dependant,
so occasionaly we are forced to alter the plans.
If this is the case, suitable alternatives are offered.
Please use this outline itinerary as a guide to
the types of route / activity that you will attempt. |
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| Course
Prices |
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Standard
course
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5
days guiding, 7 days holiday in total |
£999 |
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Live
availability
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Click
on the planner logo to the right to
see the real time live course availability
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Secure
online booking system |
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Course Inclusions: 1) IFMGA Mountain
Guide for five days, 2) Chamonix course hosts for
logistics & briefings, 3) B&B accommodation
in Chamonix (inc. beddings & towels), 4) Pre
course information booklet, 5) Equipment discount
voucher for UK shops, 6) Free 36 page technical
Course Instruction Booklet, 7) Road transport in
Chamonix valley, 8) Evening technical instruction
/ briefing sessions. |
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| Exclusions:
1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Equipment hire,
3) Cable cars & uplift, 4) Personal laundry,
telephone calls, lunches, evening meals in valley,
& any purchases in mountain huts / hotels /
restaurants, 5) Optional night half board in mountain
hut (inc. costs for guides), 6) Sunday pre-dinner
drinks & Friday celebratory meal & drinks,
7) Activities insurance, & excess baggage charges. |
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| Notes:
Group
size 2 - 3 clients per guide. This trip can
be operated as a private course for a group of 3
people booking together, at a 1:3 ratio throughout,
on any date you wish throughout the summer season. |
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Course
upgrade options
Many clients on
this trip consider upgrading with one
or more of the following course additions... |
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Private
room |
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Mont
Blanc
extension |
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Half
board |
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Acclimatise
weekend |
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Upgrade
from shared to
single from £200 in
addition to course price,
depending on week. |
Two
day extension; 1:1
£1099, or 1:2 for £549
(booking together). Also
Matterhorn or Eiger. |
Upgrade
from B&B to
have 3 course evening
meals in Chamonix for
5 nights for £99pp. |
Saturday
night spent in
Chamonix, with choice
of self-guided or guided
on Sunday. From £50. |
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Click
for details
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Click
for details |
Click
for details |
Click
for details |
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Current
course availability
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| Testimonials |
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| Press
& media |
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| Films
& videos |
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| Photo
gallery |
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| Location
data for this trip |
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trips are based in the Chamonix valley in the French
Alps, at the foot of Mont Blanc. It is easily accessed
via a 90 minute transfer from Geneva airport. |
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Time
Difference
GMT +1hr
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Local
Currency
€ Euros
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Travel
from UK
1hr flight
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| Pre-requisite
experience |
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For
this course there is a large quantity of technical
instruction and skills elements, with a wide range
of routes that can be climbed during the week. Please
ensure that you have all the pre-requisite skills
and experience requirements for this course. If
you are unsure at all, please ask us to help advise
you;
Crampons - have used crampons, even for winter
skills / walking
Rock
- if no outdoor rock experience, to be a capable
scrambler
Ropework
- be able to tie on to a rope, and to belay safety
Fitness
- to be similar fitness to those attempting Mont
Blanc |
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| Alpine
skills & knowledge |
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Try
to answer the questions below, and see how much
you already know. The answers are beneath. After
you complete one of these courses, you should be
able to answer all these questions, and much more
with the greatest of ease.
Q1.
What is the minimum length rope two climbers should
take for a wet glacier crossing?
ANSWER:
They should take a 30m rope, as a wet glacier is
snow covered, so crevasses could be hidden. Each
climber should tie on the end of the rope and take
in chest coild until 10 to 12 metres are tied off
between them.
Q2.
What is a foehn wind, and how is it generated?
ANSWER:
A foehn wind is caused by the enforced uplift of
an airmass over a mountain, and as it cools with
altitude the humity condenses and precipitation
falls. On the descent the drier air mass is rapidy
compressed and warms quickly. The net effect is
that the air reaches the same altitude on the far
side of the mountain drier and warmer than on the
uplift side.
Q3.
How can you retreat from a multi-pitch ice / glacier
climb without leaving any ice screws behind?
ANSWER:
By constructing Abalakov belay systems, which are
two inter-connecting holes drilled into the ice,
using ice screws, through which some abseil tat
is threaded and tied off.
Q4.
How do you tell a left and right crampon apart?
ANSWER:
The buckles / strap attachments are always on the
outside of the crampon, to reduce the snagging /
trip hazard. Also looking a the crampons from above,
a left boot crampon bends to the right, and vice-versa. |
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| Suggested
reading and kit |
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View
full course equipment list,
with examples of kit, click
here |
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| Why
choose our trips? |
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See
our Alpine blog, by clicking on the Word-press
logo to the right. |
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Itinerary
flexibility to allow you to take full advantage
of the weather windows on any day, to maximise
your summit chances. |
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Our
prices are fixed in £ Sterling, to protect
you from euro fluctuations, so you can budget
accurately. |
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There
is a choice of routes to opt for, depending
on the weather, conditions, and your experience. |
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| Any
further questions? |
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A
key part of choosing a company is being able to
come and talk about your plans with an experienced
course advisor face to face. In an increasingly
virtual world, we know our clients value speaking
to real people, getting open and honest advice.
The vast majority of our clients are British, and
our office and outdoor store is based in Windermere
in the English Lake District.
 
Get
in contact to arrange a meeting, and come in for
a coffee to discuss your course in person with a
trip
advisor. |
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