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Weisshorn ascent 1:1 week 2024
A week of private 1:1 Alpine guiding, to climb this iconic peak
Course overview

The photo above just sums up this iconic peak; steep, exposed, unrelenting, mixed and majestic. It's a step up technically from climbs such as the Matterhorn or Eiger, and physically too.

To book this course, you should be very fit, have good footwork on steep ground, be good with exposure and have good ropework skills (previous skills: Alpine AD / Grade III Ice / UK Hard Severe / US 5.10).
This trip is operated at a 1:1 guiding ratio throughout, to maximise your safety and summiting success. It allows complete flexibility for weather windows, and for you to climb at a speed tailored to you.
Typically the training routes are based in Chamonix, but if you opt to climb elsewhere based out of huts, you can pay direct for the extra hut nights for you and your guide.
For clients who have climbed in Chamonix before, there are over 4000 routes so you are guaranteed not to repeat anything during the training days. You are guaranteed new, challenging objectives.
Many Alpine 4000ers can be climbed with a low amount of skill or talent. Not so for the Weisshorn, and, due to the exposure, inexperienced peak baggers should beware that their chances of success will be low.
We will not accept clients on this course unless we believe they have the necessary experience for success.
You will see from the itinerary, that you will climb many routes to prepare you before the Weisshorn, to fully prepare you in terms of ropework and acclimatisation.
Dates: these are listed in the column on the right, and they show the live availability from our secure online booking system. When you book online, you receive immediate confirmation, your Alpine Information Booklet, course specific kit list and invoice.
Brief Course Itinerary
Sun Travel to Chamonix to arrive for the 17:00 check-in followed by and course safety and itinerary briefings. There is time for kit checks or rental of equipment. Briefings are over by 19:00 and the Chamonix hosts accompany the group to pre-dinner drinks to answer any queries. Night in Chamonix.
Mon A technical day route, e.g. Arete de Papillons, or a shorter route followed by a night in a mountain hut, e.g. Traverse d'Entreves. Guiding ratio 1:1 (max). Night in mountain hut or in Chamonix.
Tue A day on the fantastic granite with great exposure that Chamonix is famous for, such as South Ridge of Aiguille du Moine, or the Dent du Geant. Guiding ratio 1:1 (max). Night in Chamonix.
Wed Drive to base of Weisshorn (c. 2hrs) then make the long approach up to the Weisshorn Hut for the night. Guiding ratio 1:1 (max). Night spent in mountain hut for acclimatisation.
Thu Alpine start to ascend the Weisshorn, starting around 4am from the hut. The climb is long, and you return in the mid to late afternoon to the hut for a second night. Guiding ration 1:1 (max).
Fri Spare day contingency for weather window for the climb. During the day you descend to the hut and return to Chamonix for celebrations! Guiding ratio (1:1 max). Night in Chamonix.
Sat Breakfast then the accommodation check out is by 10:00. Most arrange their airport transfers to leave around this time, to catch a flight from Geneva about midday. Depart for home.
ITINERARY NOTES: Where possible we follow itineraries. Mountain adventures are weather and conditions dependant, so occasionaly we are forced to alter the plans. If this is the case, suitable alternatives are offered. Please use this outline itinerary as a guide to the types of route / activity that you will attempt.

Course Prices
Standard course
5 days guiding, 7 days holiday in total £3299
Live availability
Click on the planner logo to the right to
see the real time live course availability
Latest Availability
Secure online booking system
Standard Course Inclusions: 1) IFMGA Mountain Guide for five days, 2) Chamonix course hosts for logistics & briefings, 3) Self-catered accommodation in Chamonix (inc. beddings & towels), 4) Pre course information booklet, 5) Equipment discount voucher for UK shops, 6) Free 36 page technical Course Instruction Booklet, 7) Road transport in Chamonix valley and to / from Weisshorn, 8) Car parking fees in Switzerland, 9) Up to two nights half board in mountain hut on Weisshorn (inc. costs for guides), 10) Evening technical instruction / briefing sessions on nights in Chamonix.
Exclusions: 1) Travel to and from Chamonix, 2) Equipment hire, 3) Personal laundry, telephone calls, lunches, evening meals in valley, & any purchases in mountain huts / hotels / restaurants, 4) Cable cars and uplift for you and your guide (cable cars for guide included in Chamonix) in both Zermatt and Chamonix, 5) Optional night(s) in a mountain hut on the training days, on a half board basis for you and your guide, 6) Sunday pre-dinner drinks & Friday celebratory meal & drinks, 7) Activities insurance, & excess baggage charges.
Course upgrade options
Many clients on this trip consider upgrading with one or more of the following course additions...
 
Private
room
Big 5 Alpine
extensions
Technical
kit rental
Acclimatise
weekend
  Upgrade to single from
£300-£500 in addition to
standard course price,
depending on week.
Extend by 2 days after
to ascend one of the
Big 5 Alpine peaks as
an extra summit.
Rent all technical kit
for a week. Full Alpine
Bundle costs you just
£100 for the week.
Saturday night spent in
Chamonix, with choice
of self-guided or guided
on Sunday. From £70.
  Click for details Click for details Click for details Click for details
 
Standard course accommodation - normally clients are based in self-catered flats (details), so take a look, and decide if it's for you. For more luxury, contact us for quotes in higher standard apartments, or hotels of any standard required. If you have / source your own course accommodation, or we cannot provide an upgrade, the standard course price has a £100pp reduction applied on your invoice.
Current course availability

Course Dates
Weisshorn
  • [ 1 ] 14 - 20 Jul 2024
  • [ 1 ] 11 - 17 Aug 2024
  • [ 1 ] 1 - 7 Sep 2024
NOTE: This trip has scheduled
dates, but it can be operated on
any date you wish. Let us know
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Price: £3299 Book online

Alternative courses
Mont Blanc Summit
Eiger Ascent
Mt Blanc+Eiger+Matterhorn

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Location data for this trip
The trips start in the Chamonix valley in the French Alps, at the foot of Mont Blanc. It is easily accessed via a 90 minute transfer from Geneva airport.
Time Difference
GMT +1hr
Local Currency
€ Euros
Travel from UK
1hr flight
Resources
Equipment - summit day kit list...
We send a course specific equipment list to all those booking on our courses, but due to the popularity of this course, we outline a typical packing list for the summit day in the list below.
Basic clothing
- Light coloured long sleeve wicking layer
- Schoeller / soft shell climbing trousers
- Mid layer fleece jacket / gillet
- Fleece hat and gloves, and sunhat / cap
- B3 leather / plastic boots, and gaiters
Equipment
- Harness, helmet, ice axe (without leash)
- 12 point crampons and anti-balling plates
- 1 x 120cm Sling, 1 x karabiner, 1 x prussic
- Belay device for abseils (if required)
- Head torch (LED style is lightest type)
Altitude gear
- Synthetic or down insulation jacket
- Goggles in case of high wind
- Neoprane face mask in case of wind
- Thick waterproof over gloves
- Windproof over trousers (eg PacLite)
General kit
- Close fitting sun glasses (Factor 4 for snow)
- Pocket snacks for summit day (eg Haribos)
- Water bottle (bladder type may freeze)
- Rucksack (up to 35 litres max is ideal)
- Basic blister kit, Aspirin, suncream
Preparation - altitude & training...
An ascent of the Weisshorn should not be underestimated, and you should arrive for this course in good physical condition as the climb will probably be the greatest physical exertion of your life. Please don't ignore this issue... We highly recommend that you read our training page (click here) for details.
If you are worried about acclimatisation, we recommend that you book on an Acclimatisation Weekend before your course. to help you get acclimatised earlier, leaving you with more summiting weather windows for the Weisshorn.
Suggested reading and kit
View full course equipment list, with examples of kit, click here
Pro top tips - geeks corner!
Any further questions?
A key part of choosing a company is being able to come and talk about your plans with an experienced course advisor face to face. In an increasingly virtual world, we know our clients value speaking to real people, getting open and honest advice. The vast majority of our clients are British, and our office and outdoor store is based in Windermere in the English Lake District.



Get in contact to arrange a meeting, and come in for a coffee to discuss your course in person with a trip advisor.


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