The
Gran Paradiso sits in the Valle d'Aosta, in northwestern
Italy, a region of magical mountains and rugged desolate
valleys and wilderness. Standing at 4061 metres high,
the Mont Blanc massif straddles the border between France
and Italy, the Gran Paradiso is the only mountain whose
summit reaches over 4,000 metres that is entirely within
Italian territory, so that it could be considered the
highest peak in Italy.
Historically
the Gran Paradiso area has been home to ibex and chamois
populations, which have been extensively hunted since
medieval times for use of their blood, horns, and even
their droppings in medicinal treatments. Levels of ibex
and chamois dropped to worrying low levels in this area
which resulted in rulings in 1821 that prohibited hunting
(except by royal entourages) in order to protect the only
populations of ibex and chamois populations in the Alps.
Following
this, in 1856 King Vittorio Emanuele II had unified several
hunting grounds and declared a Royal Game Reserve. After
the First World War, in 1922, Victor Emanuele III renounced
his hunting rights and handed it over the area to the
Italian state in 1922, making the first National Park
in Italy, and one of the oldest nature reserves in Europe.
The boundaries of the National Park were enlarged in 1979,
and now it covers an area of 70000 ha.
The
first full ascent to reach the summit of the Gran Paradiso
was on September 4, 1860 by Chamonix Guides Michel Payot,
and Jean Tairraz who were guiding Englishmen John J. Cowell,
and Wuilliam Dundas. The ascent was via the South West
Slope Route which they departed from the Alp of Moncorvé
(2426m).
The
first winter ascent of the mountain was on 2 March 1885
by Biella Town Vittorio Sella and Englishman S.Aitken,
who were accompanied by guides Jean Joseph and Daniel
Maquignaz. They also followed the ascent via the South
West Slope Route.
The
first winter traverse of the mountain from North East
to South West was completed 9 February 1925 by Miss E.
Della Valle of Casanova, Umberto Balestrieri, Erasmo Barisone,
I. Brosio and Ugo of Vallepiana. They departed from the
Farms of the Herbetet (2441m), reached the Glacier of
the Tribulation, and they climbed through the Finestra
of the Roc (3998m), and continued to the Great Paradiso
Peak. Their descent was via the usual route toward the
Shelter Vittorio Emanuele I° and Pont (1960m), which
resulted in them also completing the first winter crossing
between the Valley of Cogne and Valsavarenche.
A
word of caution
By
high Alpine mountaineering standards, Gran Paradiso is
considered one of the less difficult 4,000 meter peaks,
although it has one of the longest Ordinary Ascents of
1,300 meters on the summit day. The final 60 meters cover
rocky terrain and require mountaineering skills. Those
who manage to summit Gran Paradiso usually get the traditional
photo alongside the statue of Madonna which is located
on the summit. The view from the Gran Paradiso itself
is one of the best panoramas in the Alps.
As we have mentioned before, there are three key points
to remember and to apply on any mountain;
1) The mountain will always be there. Do not push safety
boundaries on ascents as another can be made
2) The key to success is preparation in terms of information,
equipment, training, techniques and planning
3) Never set off considering rescue as an option (unless
there is an accident). Do not play poker with lives.
The
key climbing seasons
Summer
- Our courses for the ascent of Gran Paradiso during the
summer season, make ascents via the Victor Emanuelle or
Chabod routes. Course dates start from mid June to late
September which is typically known as the high season
in the Alps yet as with any mountain the weather can be
unpredictable, even more so with recent weather pattern
changes.
Winter - During the winter, all ascents have to be made
on skis or split-boards, and the classic spring ski touring
season is the busiest period for this, though early season
ski ascents can often be made too.
Routes
on the Gran Paradiso
In
the mid-1800's around 350km of wide tracks were constructed
at the Kings expense, along with five hunting lodges and
mountain huts, manned by game keepers, beaters and porters.
There is now around 470km of signed paths in the Gran
Paradiso area.
The
main two climbing routes to the Gran Paradiso peak are
via the Refuge Vittorio Emanuele II, which the Icicle
course follows; and the alternative route is via the Refuge
Frédéric Chabod, a route which crosses the
Laveciau Glacier.
Normal route from Rifugio
Victor Emanuelle
The
Vittorio Emanuele Route starts in Pont, at the end of
the Val Savaranche, where a good path makes its way up
to the hut. The ridge to the summit is exposed but an
easy scramble with some metal bolts for protection. There
is a high col on the summit ridge that is perfect for
a less exposed break where the views can be enjoyed and
appreciated.
Skiing
the Gran Paradiso
The
Italian ski tours are generally quieter than in France
and Switzerland. There are plenty of mountain huts in
the area which provide a warm and friendly welcome, and
provide excellent food and drink. Coupled with the amazing
scenery this area is perfect for ski touring, and also
for ski mountaineering. Ski Mountaineering, combines skiing
and mountaineering, with a climb up the mountain followed
by skiing down the huge descents, over glaciers and down
valleys.
Icicle
Mountaineering's "Gran Paradiso Ski Tour" course
combines both ski touring, and ski mountaineering, and
includes not only getting to the summit of the Gran Paradiso,
but then having a ski descent with a vertical drop of
over 2000m. The course is over 7 days (5 days guiding),
and runs in March and April. There are two options of
itineraries for this course, Hut-to-Hut; or the Circuit;
both are set within the stunning Gran Paradiso National
Park.
Both
itineraries include an ascent to reach the Gran Paradiso
summit, with around 95% of the climb to the top of Gran
Paradiso being on skis, with a short, easy rocky scramble
of around 200 metres to the Madonna at very top. Some
Alpine skills are still required for ascents on crampons,
and the occasional easy abseil. The Gran Paradiso Ski
Tour course requires good skiing ability as although there
is only a little steep skiing, the slopes can be icy or
rutted in places, with breakable crusts. There is often
plenty of powder on the descents and breathtaking scenery
can be enjoyed each day, and warm refuges each evening
to relax, and enjoy the food and wine. Normally two classic
route choices are selected from, either the approach via
the Benevolo to Val Savaranches and then the ascent of
Gran Paradiso, or the circuit of the mountain starting
in Val de Cogne. The exact choice of route is usually
left until the last minute to take account of conditions
and avalanche risks.
Mountain
huts on Gran Paradiso
Victor
Emanuelle
Vittorio
Emanuele Mountain Hut (2732m) is ideally placed for both
spring and summer climbs to nearby Gran Paradiso. The
old hut was built in 1884, but a new building was built
nearby in 1961, offering lodging and food for about 190
people. The new hut includes a common room, kitchen and
dining rooms on the ground floor, and two storeys of sleeping
accommodation, the first floor provides private rooms
for up to 6 people, and second floor has shared accommodation
on mattresses. The hut also has a bar and small shop for
drinks and snacks. Both huts are open Mid-March to Mid-September,
and there is also an unguarded winter room. The refuge
is the starting point for the standard Gran Paradiso route,
and the refuge is linked to the Rifugio Chabod via a scenic
traverse where it is possible to admire and view the whole
of the Valsavarenche.
Rifugio
Chabod
The
Federico Chabod refuge (2750m) is situated at the foot
of the north-west face of the Gran Paradiso, at the heart
of the Gran Paradiso national park. The Refuge Frederic
Chabod provides a resting place for one of the main routes
to the Gran Paradiso summit. The idea of establishing
a refuge named after Federico Chabod was suggested in
the autumn of 1966 by a group of mountaineers who were
members of the Valsavarenche guide federation. Federico
Chabod was born in the town of Aosta on 23 February 1901,
and together with his uncle Michele Baratono, Federico
Chabod was the first climber to take on the south-western
face of the Gran Paradiso without a guide. Federico was
a historian, university lecturer, regionalist, and politician,
and died in July 1960. The location of the proposed refuge
was chosen using the mountaineers' own experience and
the need to reach routes that were not easily accessible,
e.g. the Becca di Montandayné, the north-west face
of the Gran Paradiso and the south face of the Herbetet.
After many years spent securing the agreement for the
building of the hut with the local planning department
and other government departments, the original "hut"
building was completed in autumn 1977. Construction of
the existing refuge began a year later in summer 1978,
but due to the altitude of the hut (2750m) construction
could only take place during the summer months. Since
completion, the Chabod Refuge has undergone successive
improvements. It takes two and half hours to arrive at
the refuge from the valley floor, with an easy footpath
dating back to the king's hunting days which winds through
a larch wood opening out to flowered pastures where animals
can often be seen. The main Chabod refuge is open in the
springtime to cater for skiing (until mid-May) and reopens
in mid-June until mid-September during the period of traditional
climbing and hiking activities. In the summer, the refuge
offers hostel services with 85 beds with toilets and shower
en suite. There is a rock-climbing facility that has been
set up in the vicinity of the refuge.
Guiding
ratio & grades
The
ascent of the Gran Paradiso, via the Vittorio Emanuele
Route starting in Pont, can be undertaken as part of Icicle
Mountaineering's Alpine Intro 'Summit and Skills' course,
which is a 7 day course (6 days guiding), and runs from
the end of June until mid-September. The guiding ratio
for this course is 1:6 for the first three days, and then
at a guiding ratio of 1:3 for the trek to the hut and
the summit of the Gran Paradiso the following day.
Ascent
of the Gran Paradiso can also be achieved on Icicle's
"Gran Paradiso Ski Tour course", a 7 day course
(5 days guiding), with a guiding ratio of 1:6 (max) throughout
the course, and includes the summit of the Gran Paradiso.
We
are in the process of developing these mountain
focus pages for many of the key peaks that we offer
trips too, in order to help people prepare better
for their trips.
This
page has largely been written by Emma
from our Windermere
HQ, and it's here that most people
have their first contact with us, in person or on
the phone.
We
are always editing these pages, so if you have any feedback
about information we should add to the page, please let
us know. We feel it's important that all our staff are
experts on the mountains we offer trips to, so we are
all involved in developing these focus pages.
Latest
news from Icicle
Preparation
for the ascent
An
ascent of Gran Paradiso should not be underestimated,
and you should arrive for this course in good physical
condition as the climb will probably be the greatest physical
exertion of your life. Please don't ignore this issue...
We
highly recommend that you read our training page (click
here) for details
on how to prepare. If
you are worried about acclimatisation, which is a real
concern for anyone attempting the Gran Paradiso, we highly
recommend that you book on an Acclimatisation
Weekend before
your course.
As
mentioned previously we require our clients to have specific
experience, skills and fitness before attempting the Gran
Paradiso. While not the most technical course we offer
it is important to be able to move quickly and adeptly
up and over rock. Indoor climbing while great for building
up strength and balance is not a substitute for rock so
head to the Lakes or North Wales: a couple of days getting
used to uneven terrain and gritty rock is a perfect way
to improve your skills never mind escaping those sweaty
gyms and having a douse of fresh air to invigorate your
training.
Those
that have not had much experience with crampons could
still attempt the Gran Paradiso if they have appropriate
rock climbing experience as it is only the final summit
block that usually demands crampons. We also expect you
to have the required levels of fitness for such a demanding
route not only for bettering your chances of summit success
but also for your own safety and well-being. Please follow
our training plans and, once you think you've reached
the physical peak required train even harder!
Postscript
to this focus
This
page is constantly updated as a result of changing techniques,
conditions, and latest news. Please don't use this page
alone as the research you undertake for an ascent, and
it does definitely not attempt to offer any of the instruction
of techniques which you will require. Details of many
other sources of information have been provided, which
you should consult before an ascent. Remember that to
climb any mountain is a privilege, not a guarantee. If
you found this page of use, and have any other information
that others may find helpful, then please e-mail us. We
will post any useful extra information on the page, and
you will be cited. It is this sharing of knowledge that
makes the climbing community so close, and this extra
knowledge will increase your chances of reaching the summit.
Any
further questions?
A
key part of choosing a company is being able to come and
talk about your plans with an experienced course advisor
face to face. In an increasingly virtual world, we know
our clients value speaking to real people, getting open
and honest advice. The vast majority of our clients are
British, and our office and outdoor store is based in
Windermere in the English Lake District.
Get
in contact to arrange a meeting, and come in for a coffee
to discuss your course in person with a trip
advisor.
